Toby S

Also depends on whether its an electrical or mechanical gauge - mechanical much more accurate and fluctuate more immediately. K series 1400 Supersport withy mechanical gauge - 65 Psi on start up, blipping to 70 psi, and when hot under load 40-65psi depending on load and 20 psi idling

Cheers all - Consensus seems to leave as is, so will do - may consider more serious upgrades on the 21 in time (and no doubt will be in touch with you Oily), but will run it for a while and see how I get on

Hi all My 1992 1400 Supersport 7 has an aluminium bigger bore "Supersport" embossed inlet manifold and plenum yet my 1998 21 1800 Supersport has an standard rover smaller bore plastic "injection" unit - I think Caterham stopped doing the aluminium one around 1995/96. I can't help but think this is restricting flow and impacting power - the 1800 Supersport only kicks out circa 140 bhp against the 1400 130 bhp which ain't much for the extra 400cc. 3 questions:- Would the larger bore Supersport manifold fit the 1800 engine ? - can't see why not as the Rover units would appear per Rimmer bros to be the same for the 1400, 1600 and 1800 engined Rover cars Has anyone fitted the larger bore aluminium Supersport manifold to the 1800 engine and what impact in performance did it have ? If answer to Q1 and 2 are positive, does anyone have a "supersport" manifold and plenum they don't need (I know an number of people convert to Jenvey ITB which is the alternative route I'm also considering plus emerald) and would be willing to sell ? Regards

P.S - Good to meet you on Saturday Stephen - good to put a face to a name

I almost traded my RX7 in for one of them back in the early 90's - always fancied one, but never got round to ever owning ( an also never got to the wealth I would need to get to to owning) - I have a list of 10 or so cars like that (albeit a number are more - I will never get to the wealth needed to be able to own !!!) Starter for 10 and those at the top are:- Jensen 541 Jaguar Mk 2 - 3.8 Jaguar Mk IX Bristol 411 Rover P5B

You can achieve the same(ish) look through just use of spacers which is probably a lot less cost than a new set of rear wheels and tyres and then keep the original minilites.look to boot I was quite surprised finding run of mill tintops using wheel spacers as standard manufacture equipment - I had a puncture the other day on my workhorse Passat R-line diesel (first time I've taken a wheel off that car in 100k miles) and that has 19 inch factory optional extra wheels and that had spacers as standard kit - surprised me a bit

I've always fancied on of those myself - Ideal for long Drives across France on the D roads through the Summer

I bet that's fun through the Lion enclosure !!!😁

Andrew - PM sent - definitely interested in a full set of 16"

Looking for a spare or could be interested in a full set if in good condition

2nd dibs if sale falls through or would be delighted to split Owen if you want

Gave you a flash - was in my daughters Black Golf

PM sent

a few points when my stop working:- IS it all lights (dipped, full beam and side) - - each are on different fused circuits If all, or just side lights working, maybe the switch - Take out and pull apart and and keen up all contacts, could also be a connection on the full beam/dip switch In cases when it was just dip or main beam not working, check behind the fuse box, as you may find on of the contacts or wires has popped out Also check the earth. I find it's usual a combination of the above

If had my Protech dampers (single adjusters) for circa 7 years and had no problems - Bought direct from the Protech and Kevin gave me a Friday afternoon deal with springs when I went down to the factory and he built them up there and then - good value Springs I went for were 250Ib front and 150Ib rear on a 1400 Supersport - these replaced the previous set up which had Bilsteins (admittedly these were leaking a bit) and 300Ib front and 200Ib rears - New set up suits me for the Road and I set the dampers towards the hard setting on the front and softer setting on the rears (I think there is 10 click settings from memory so I'm at 8 on the fronts and circ 4 at the rears) - In hindsight I might have gone a slightly harder on the front springs but not by much. For completeness I run R888R 185/60R13 on front and 205/60R13 at the rear

Thanks All PM sent Neil

Thinking of doing some touring later in summer and therefore re-fitting my windscreen again and wipers (including the wiper motor back in) having been on Brooklands for the last 5-6 years I can't find the nuts which hold the wiper spindles/motor to the scuttle (just below the wiper arm's) - Does anyone have a clue on size of the nuts (look circa 1/2 inch to me although haven't measured them properly yet) - the car is a 1992 K series supersport so would guess it would be an imperial

PM sent in case they are still for sale

Totally agreed Stephen - although you may be showing your age with those clips

I'm also interested although behind Jetto PM sent

Sounds like the thermostat is jammed open - I had the same sort of readings on my supersport when I first bought it and found on investigation that the thermostat had been removed completely so it was a fully open system all the time - a sticky thermostat would have the same result

PM sent Guy

PM sent if these are still available but Hooley and Gridgeway first

I had a similar problem a few years ago on my 1400 SS and in the end I tracked it down to the key ignition switch - change to a dash mounted and solved the problem - was a lot of trial and error as it was intermittent which is the real pain and also usually cut mid junction or roundabout were you didn't have the opportunity to inspect the problem properly - just needed to get the car out of the way. P.S. Tracked down finally to ignition switch when it cut on a dual carriageway and I was on outside lane overtaking and found I had no indicators so went hunting under the dash - try flicking your indicators on when it next cuts

Hi Miker7 Welcome to the fun of Sevening Given it seems to get up to temperature on the drive, I think you may find that to avoid possible overheating, the thermostat may have been removed and therefor you have full on cooling flow all the time. I know a lot of people which track their k series do this. I know that was the case with my 1400 Supersport when I first got it, and when driving in Autumn/Winter on colder day I found I couldn't get up to normal running temperature (circa 80-85 degrees) - in winter it would show 60-70 before I refitted a thermostat. No doubt there are pros and cons of having thermostats (especially if you're worried on overheating) , but I'm just as uncomfortable with revving the arse off (and you have to with a 1400) a too cooler engine as fear of the thing boiling. You can get various thermostats from Rimmer Bros which open from 76 to circa 82 degrees - I've got the standard 82 degree fitted and it seems to work fine, as long as you bleed the system properly - I've never come close to boiling. The only way to find out is to take the thermostat housing off and look to see if there is a thermostat in there - of course there may be one in there and its jammed open. Good luck