ScottR400D

I did it years ago but I did feed the cable through the tunnel.

Are the relays all seated properly?

The ‘spacing on the lower wishbone’ could be the answer. That’s where castor is set and could be the difference Positive castor increases self centring which is what you seem to be describing. To decrease the + castor you’d want to adjust the washers to move the lower wishbones back. Are the 420 wishbones set further back than the 620 is a the question. At least you’d need to see what the 620 is so someone who’s more familiar with the set up could comment.

“If you're chasing the last 0.1s then i'm sure very expensive shocks will assist. If you're trying to get to the pub or enjoy a track day I suspect the Protechs will be fine. Another member on here has just bought Protechs. It would be worth you talking to him.” I have little doubt that you’re right.

I think you’ll find it hard to find anyone without a vested interest who knows all three and Protech get good reviews from these who’ve used them so if that’s what you’d prefer to spend I’d go for them. I recently fitted a new set of dampers after speaking to a few suppliers of them and those brands you've mentioned but not wanting to pay the extra for no objectively explained benefit. Can’t say I enjoyed the process and felt at times that I was being coerced into spending more and more money against my interests and wishes. PM me if you’re interested.

Really?! Wow!

There have been a lot of ‘distasteful’ periods in the club. It’s not just the preserve of the Webbs, it means nothing to me

I meant they are unfortunate for him because it clearly puts off the buyers who do read them.

Where does it say race use or show only? Not saying it doesn’t but I can’t find it. I have JWM rod ends and Li battery. Told my insurance, they're happy with them and there was no extra charge. Having said that there are other things I might have bought but haven’t because of the T&C. I can’t see that they’ll help his business though they’re well hidden so maybe many don’t notice? His T&C are unfortunate. Most of the stuff he doesn’t actually make himself so he could put the onus on his suppliers to make sure they’re fit for purpose and get tests done on things he’s had made to his spec. if necessary. Having said that, CC are not unfamiliar with selling ‘unfit for purpose’ items, are they? Have insurers refused cover when one of their components fail?

've just looked at the RB kit price on CC Parts: a stonking £4.9K! Ouch. In 2014, the kit (incl fitting) cost under £2K. That's inflation for you. Well, it’s CC inflation for you, not genuine inflation. Do they actually still stock and fit these things anyway now they’re a ‘manufacturer based business’…….

No need to remove any oil pipes at all. Nigel and Aerobod have given you all you need. To reiterate, be careful not to over tighten the finger filter cover M5. The O ring is reusable though I measured it up and bought spares for very little so I change it every other time or so. I don’t use Loctite myself, never wanted to risk it causing damage on such a small thread.

“I think it's like many of these things, it doesn't really matter (eeek).” I think you’re right within reason. Common sense should give you the right path. I’d love to know the justification for running without water though. If there is one.

‘Running in’ for a new car (as per this thread) covers the engine and all other mechanical assemblies. Even if being ‘robust’ helps for the engine, which is far from proven, there are other components that might not benefit from it. Most (all?) manufactures just recommend avoiding extremes for a few hundred miles to allow moving, mating components to bed in. Easy. That’s what I’ve done over decades and many new cars and never had a car that felt underpowered or used oil. It’s what I did with my R400 with similar results. It produced its stated power on Luke Stevens rolling road and I’ve never had to top up the oil between changes, even with track days. What did I do wrong?

Good question. Maybe the thread title should be ‘WHAT IS THE LATEST OVERTHINKING ABOUT BREAKING IN A NEW ENGINE?’ ? 😉

Ford say: ”Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.” Sounds about right.