Jim 123

The locknuts are all loose, and I've taken the Rod Ends off just to ensure no crossed threads are inhibiting movement, but still no rotation. I'll have a go at Richards' suggestion in the morning and snip the cable wraps and go hunting for the spanner flats on the Track Rods.

I have my new build S3 on wheels and it is showing a significant and unequal amount of Toe Out. I may be doing something stupid, but I can't get any movement on either Tack Rod to make adjustments. Can somebody tell me if I am doing something wrong before I resort to brute force. I set the Track Rod Ends with 11 threads of the Track Rod engaged on each side as per the build instructions. The car is on the ground, with the retaining nuts for the Track Rod Ends fully loosed. I am using Mole Grips to try and turn the Track Rods, and the grips are positioned just inboard of the threaded section of the Rods. I haven't tried to remove the Gaiters where the Track Rods exit the Rack assembly, is there a locking nut hiding in there.

Oops just read the Manual. Scrap my earlier comment. The "chamfered" edge of the gearbox mount is forward most.

I'm working with the same issue, and stand to be corrected. Watch which way round you fit the mount. I believe that when you look from the front of the car rear wards, the mount appears open just ahead of the front gearbox mounting bolt, but closed on the rear (if that makes sense). The mounting plate is not symmetrical along the fore to aft plane.

Thanks for the feedback - I'll get the drill out

Thanks for the feedback - I'll get the drill out

Thanks guys photos hopefully attached and legible. There's a lot of black stuff in there..........

I am trying to fit the Knee Trims on my 270 Kit, and would appreciate feedback from anyone who been down this road please. When you compare the fixing holes on the Knee Trims with the corresponding fixing holes in the foot well sides, everything matches in terms of hole spacing.. However, when I place the Knee Trims in position, I can not get more than the front most Knee Trim fixing holes to line up with the holes in the foot well sides. As you come rearwards, the Knee Trim holes increasingly sit lower than their counterparts on the foot well sides. The rear edges of the Knee Trims are each slotted behind the fascia, and will not come any higher up without fouling things like the wiper motor. It looks like the only option will be to offer up the Knee Trims into the optimum position, and re-drill new holes in the Knee Trims using the foot well fixing apertures as my guide. Am I missing something obvious? Or is the only option to re-drill?

Silly question, but is there an identical gap on both sides?

I echo John's comments completely. I think many of us have learned a great deal from your experience (and dogged perseverance!)

What does the feedback from Derek suggest about future access to the Gearbox Filler Plug, i.e. it still accessible for top up?

The very sensible comment about do not use heat brings a suggestion to mind. What about trying to create some expansion in the couplings by carefully pouring boiling water from a kettle over the joints? It may need quite a soaking to allow heat to permeate into the threaded areas. From memory (best check this out) the auto-ignition temperature of gasoline is above the boiling point of water, and is above 200 degrees C. Re Jonathan's pipe freezing idea. Freezing is primarily used by plumbers to create an ice plug inside a pipe whilst a connector is speedily undone and replaced. It is a technique sometimes used to negate draining down a whole heating system if a simple valve needs changing.

Try this link. About half way down the page is a very good feature on Setting the Driving Position and Pedals, which may help. http://www.sevenracing.co.uk/Caterham_Build_Diary/Caterham_Build_Diary.html

Thanks to everyone for your helpful advice. Miuch appreciated.

Sorry guys, try this link. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FoxHunter-Red-1-Ton-Tonne-Hydraulic-Folding-Engine-Crane-Stand-Hoist-lift-Jack-/380336470153

I am thinking of buying one of these 1 Tonne Engine Cranes, which appears to be up to the job of moving a Caterham Engine and Gearbox (135Kg) into the chassis. I'd intend to use it during my Kit build. I've not come across this particular brand of garage equipment before, if anyone has experience of the Foxhunter brand of garage tooling, I'd appreciate any comments before I press "buy". http://Ton-Tonne-Hydraulic-Folding-Engine-Crane-Stand-Hoist-lift-Jack-/380336470153

Have the spark plug coils been checked?

Sediment in the fuel tank/system/blocked injector? Crankshaft position sensor failing or related wiring connector corrosion? Has the exhaust system detonation damage the Catalyst?

I support what John and Paul have said. The feasibilty of going from painted to bare Al is difficult. If you do want to progress that route, Rust Oleum Aviation Paint Stripper is probably most appropriate. I would attempt proof of concept with the bonnet as a suggestion. A repaint opens up all sorts of creative posibilities. Whilst they are a fair distance from where you are based, my strong vote would be to get your car to TSK in Erith. They would have painted the car originally.

Looking again at your photos, the condition of the plugs doesn't say to me that there is anything to be stressed about. From your "peek" down into the plug holes, if you are concerned about carbon accumulation inside the combustion chamber / inlet track, there used to be recommendations with Redex fuel treatment on direct dosing instead of adding it to the fuel tank. This is probably best done just ahead of an oil change.

Here are a couple of comments based on what it looks the photos "might"be showing. Hopefully other Sigma owners can comment to better effect. The plugs look a little dark, which could be fuel air ratio related. Short distance trips would also encourage the plug tips to be less than "straw coloured" as the engine is not getting to optimum temperature. Additionally this also would fit with your observations about water temperature, but I'd have expected the ECU to sort this out in terms of fuel mix during a longish run with below normal signals from the Water Temp Sensor. Looking at pictures versus the real thing can also send wrong signals, but the plug gaps look a little wide to me - could that be worth a check? Is the engine consuming any oil ?

Was there any corresponding sign of Carbon deposits on each of the plugs you took out. E.g. The colour of the electrodes, also the condition of the rim of the plug threads that sit inside the combustion chamber?

Is it worth measuring a couple of things on the wing stays and axles thenposting these here so that the dimensions can be compared with other members cars? From the photos, it looks to me like it could be either the distance from wings stay horizontal bracket uppermost surface to lower fixing point aperture centre line that is out. Or, could it be the corresponding dimensions on your axles that have been incorrectly machined on the underside of the top ball joint fixings?

Guys, many thanks for your great feedback and photos. With the benefit of your experience, I am much more confident about how to proceed and also how to aviod painting myself into a corner!

I will be building an S3 Kit in the near future. I have ordered a 1.6 Sigma Engine with 5 Speed Box. The Build Manual states that the Engine and Gearbox should be connected together, and then both should be dropped into position using a hoist - Pretty obvious I suppose. However, a couple of different sources, who are experience in working with Caterhams, have said that it is easier to fit and centre the Gearbox first, and then afterwards lower the Engine into position. The Engine can then be bolted to the Bell Housing before the Engine Mounts are torqued down. With my workshop, things are going to be space and height restricted when it comes to dropping in the main power train. I'd appreciate any advice on the 2 courses of action open to me please.