Jim 123
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Everything posted by Jim 123
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I know that some rear wheel drive differentials don't respond well to A frame/dolly towing over distance. Not the case with a FWD car. It would be good if you can get feedback from a 7 owner who has towed the 7 with an A frame
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I recall that the Build Manual says to move the ball joint settings "x" rotations of of their thread from the fully home position to get a preliminary camber set before you connect the uprights. Once the car is on wheels it's worth checking the camber again as the wishbone manufacturing tolerances are not great, and you may find the camber is not the same on both wheels.
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Maybe worth checking that the lower steering column bush hasn't come out of position?
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You may have to re pair your imobiliser fob to the ECU. From memory the process is described in your handbook. Before you do that, try "wiggling" the fob around the ignition barrel when the red light starts flashing quickly. There is an antennae on the ignition barrel casing that picks up the fob signal.
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Black rubber wedges for fog and reverse light
Jim 123 replied to Jumpin Jack Flash's topic in TechTalk
I would suspect that the rubber wedges for the rear lights became a requirement under EU vehicle construction and use legislation which affects all new cars and new imports. This would have brought the requirement into the scope of the IVA test for first registration of all new 7's. I personally think that older 7's look better without the wedges.. -
Robert, when you add up all of the costs for labour and material to de-skin, prep/repair the original chassis, powder coat, re-skin, plus costs for the multiple handling and transport; is there much of a cost gap if you bought a new chassis with the non moveable panels fitted instead?
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From my research during the build Sikaflex 292 is believed to be the best product. It is a marine adhesive and a bit more expensive.
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Are there any clues as to what came unstuck? i.e. Glue to wing / glue to wing stay / or adhesion failure of wing stay powder coating to substrate. From memory Daniel French did a good description in his build blog of using BigHead fasteners which may be worth a look if you haven't already considered going that route.
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The following link might be helpful for anyone trying to do an oil change with the Ford spec filter (Pt Nr 1883037) on a 1.6 Sigma. Almost every oil filter removal cup I have tried will not grip the Ford oil filter. I purchased this item on ebay which works a treat. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271298525810
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John this is probably irrelevant. From your photos it looks like both of the plugs are NGK. Ford plugs have, to best of my knowledge, the logo FoMoCo printed on the shank of the plugs.
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On recent build cars, the wing stays are not dimensionally controlled in manufacture to the same level of precision as the axle assembly, and consequently can require a bit of force fit to put in place during build. The lower fixing hole can also have a bit too much powder coat around the fixing bolt aperture. Maybe check that the threaded portion of the ball joint is not fouling the sides of the wing stay fixing hole. Then try tapping a narrow wooden wedge into the gap between the innermost face of the stub axle and the outermost face of the wing stay. If you do this as close to the lower mounting as possible things might free up.
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It's a little unclear to me what you are trying to do, but it sounds like you are trying to remove the existing wing stay. I'll try and help but can you clarify please?
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Ball joint dimensions are pretty generic. I know Unipart knock out ball joints for under a tenner that you can dismantle. A visit to a local motorfactor, or even a breakers yard might get you sorted?
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Are you certain that the valves are fully shut on the valves that you are trying to loosen? Sorry if I'm stating the obvious.
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FYI re oils, the gearbox comes pre-filled in the kit. No idea what the original fill is, but Caterham also supply a litre of Comma 75W-80 GL 4 for topping up.
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There is an small idle adjust screw on the throttle stop below where the cable is secured. It's a small hex head screw from memory. It does not take much of a movement increase the tickover revs. Maybe somebody can confirm? But I was told that the TPS reset is basically a switch on and off of the ignition (allowing the immobiliser to deactivate), a couple of time. Then with the ignition on, and the car immobilised, slowly depress the throttle to the floor and allow it to return to the stop. Next press the start button with no foot on the right pedal.
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If you still suspect some contact it is maybe worth a check for touching between the LH chassis longitudinal upper edge that forms the transmission tunnel, and the box casing in the area to the rear of the filler plug. Things can get tight in that area.
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As Azul says, you probably need to twiddle the immobiliser around the key barrel as there I'd a small antenna that talks to the immobiliser fob. When the immobiliser is deactivated the red light goes out and stops flickering and you're ready to crank the engine. You may find that 1 of your 2 fobs is not paired but the paring sequence is described in your handbook. The pressure sensor is on the left of the block near the starter motor. Maybe check that oil is getting pumped up to the cam cover before you do any more cranking? There was a posting on here recently where the sensor on a new build was at fault. Chances are you'll get a reading on the fuel gauge with a few more litres in the tank. The gauge on my car takes quite a few minutes to give a reading.
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It might be worth checking the oil level in the main case given your comment re the previous owner. On your car the level plug should be accessible from the LH footwell where there is a large diameter hole and grommet to enable access. The plug has a square head, not to be confused with the hex head bolt just below it.
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This is pure guesswork.............. From the pictures in your blog of the rear multiplug connector, my failing eyesight sees there is a green wire, a yellow wire, and a black (earth) wire, but no red/white which is giving a zero reading at the speedo clock connector. It might be worth a look see as to where the red/white goes to from the Manual wiring diagram? Re the black wire at the speedo clock, should you try a continuity check to make sure it is finding an earth since you relocated the sensor earth?
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You might be able to get the Workshop notice using the attached link to a PDF, and going through the registration process. http://californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/showthread.php?2278-Intermittant-Speedo-Fix
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You mention that you have not touched the speedo sensor gap. I think the spec is 1 mm. Is it worth checking this and making sure the LED head is clean? I am probably completely wrong on the following and have never had to prove this, but I was told that the Caterham mod for the speedo ground wire is to achieve an earth to the chassis using the shortest length of cable run from the sensor to the chassis. The reason for throwing this comment into the ideas pool is that, from memory, the modified cable didn't look to me like it would reach as far as the T piece where you currently have the earth.
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On my build, fitting the u/j loosely bolted to the rack firstly, and then fitting the u/j coupling to the lower steering column worked without needing to get my drill out to modify a safety critical component (probably drilling is safe enough, but I prefer things to work as per spec. where possible).. However the steering column splines would not engage satisfactorily without the rack assembly being slightly articulated. John, perhaps stating the obvious, but just in case, remember that when you fit this lot make sure that the front wheels and the steering wheel are properly aligned before you bolt it together.
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I don't suppose the original bolt would fit? You didn't mention if you are trying to fit the u/j to the rack with the column already fitted to the u/j. I recall that I had problems with mine when I fitted the u/j to the column before the rack, but for some reason fitting to the rack first and getting the bolt in place with everything loose before sliding the column into position did the trick. You may also want to slacken the rack fixings off a tad as it may be a problem of different tolerances in the new u/j needing fresh, and very small, column-to-rack alignment changes. This is what happens during original build, with a final torque up when it all fits. Jonathan's point about opening/ closing the joint a little is pretty normal.
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Can you get the fixing bolt fully home in both holes when the u/j is not fitted to the splines? If so this would indicate that the u/j is opening up very slightly when fitted over the splines and mis-aligning the bolt holes.
