Jim 123

Maybe I am misinterpreting your description, but if the CSC is touching the pressure plate fingers in the rest position the CSC will be in constant ratation which will accelerate wear on the thrust bearing?

Possibly a dose of WD40, column out, and push the bush free using a drift rod to catch the lip and hammer from the other end?

Good point DJ, chances are that the slave assembly will have 7 digits on it. In Ford world this will be the FINIS code, and it may even come up with a Google. Gareth chances are that the part is sourced from Valeo. A polite call to their office in Redditch and you might find they can ID the part if you send a piccy and give a couple of dimensions. Most of this stuff is industry generic.

Any fuses blown? May not be directly Iinked to speedo.

Ebay have hub centric spigot rings. Might not be perfect for your car, but maybe a good starting point to tweak in a lathe?

Got a photo?

PM sent.

Can I mention to be cautious if you drill the neck as you could get static electricity build up. Is there any way you can get an internal circlip or or one of these Spring retainers for ceiling spotlights to fit in the aperture. You might then be able to get a fixing for your tether?

What happens if you fabricate a temporary restrictor insert to fit inside the tail pipe?

It is possible that the tester is being over zealous in my opinion, as the "load bearing" issue and "self-centering" design is what the hub mounted studs and dished wheel nuts achieve. (You would never be able to drive without the wheel being out of balance if the nut and stud did not self - centre) Also I'd venture that he solution they are asking for is not likely to be feasible on a car with pressed steel wheels either. Have they referred to what section of the Test Manual they have applied as interpretation may give some clues to other fixes? This is probably all academic as the Gillingham centre will just find other issues to fail you on if you appeal.

I think a locking fuel cap is an alternative to a tethered cap (haven't checked the manual). Usual considerations re radiuses of surfaces.

Is your test being conducted based on "rebuilt" criteria or as an "amateur build" ?

A length of hose or pipe insulation cut longitudinally and slid over the dash underside for presentation to the IVA. Might need some glue on the rear surface.

I suspect that the problem may be down to the fact that many cars have to have the throttle pedal arm bent rearwards during original build because the standard inner cable is too long and this creates chaffing at the forward entry point. On my car the angle of bend required was more than I felt comfortable with, and I decided to remove the nipple from the cable and feed it through the unmodified throttle arm. A pedal stop should also help. Having said that I've only just got to 7K on the clock : )

Inadvertent duplication.

Andy if you can upload a photo of the touch condition it may assist. For a thicker gasket have you looked at sourcing silicon rubber sheet ( to cut to profile) and bed this in Geocel Automotive Sealant on the upper and lower surfaces?

Building on Elie's point I'd suspect that the ignition switch may also be the culprit and on a new car things might just need bedding in. Maybe try jiggling the key in the barrel whilst the engine is running to see if you get your temporary blip. Cycling the ignition on / off in the barrel a good few times to get the key and lock "run in" and positively engaging is worth a try.

The first fill is Comma Hypoid 80W 90 GL5, for the standard diff

Maybe somebody who is currently building a Sigma Kit can have a look in their parts inventory for you? I recall my cable was bagged as a Rover part.

Have a look at Chipex Tom.

John it may be helpful to mention that, if it listed is on the DVSA website it will be a reportable safety problem that relates to a required corrective action to protect the safety of the public. This has to be backed up by the OEM taking clear steps to contact owners from a defined VIN range and "recalling" the car to a dealer for an FOC inspection and repair. The most recent owner details in this situation are supplied by DVLA and the OEM should monitor correction rates to define if further follow up contact with owners is needed. Running alongside this, most OEM's will take "policy" decisions on, what they view as non safety critical issues, but where they see unreasonable risk to predicted reliability or durability of a vehicle. With this there is no DVSA reporting, and they will not contact owners to recall cars. However the OEM will notify dealers of VIN details of cars to be checked and modified during "next visit to the workshop". These next visit tweaks are usually, but not always 100% FOC, with the dealer submitting his bill to the OEM.

Fluids for gearbox etc and Service Schedules are in the Owner Handbook. You can download this from the CC website.

It might not be visible when you look at the sender from the back of the engine, so just to mention that in addition to the loom plug that fits into the top of the sender, there is an earth lead held in place by a small nut, it is low down and into the side of the submarine that the sender screws in to.

What happens to the gauge if you cycle the fan switch with the heater flow valve open and closed?

Not something I have personally heard of before, where is the sender located on your car, is it as per the manual?