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I put the seats and harnesses in today. All fairly straight forward (after Derek put me on the right track after I tried to use the bottom 6pt harness eyelets by mistake). For the four point harness lap belts, the threaded holes on the sides are used, and I used the most forward hole. The seats are Ok but you need to be a bit of a contortionist to get an Allen key to the back bolts. I then set about sorting the boot carpet. I decided against using carpet in the passenger area after reading a few other blogs (it gets wet, smells, etc). However, I may consider putting it in at a later date (perhaps if the interior gets scruffy). I used Draper spay adhesive, and all the various triangles went in OK. Before sticking the carpet in I made a copy of the template. I might consider chopping up an old carry mat to provide a bit more padding in the boot area. I tried to solve my non-starting problem by taking out a spark plug at taking a look. I'm pretty sure that no fuel is getting in. I also managed to look at my strange ignition wiring. I think that the start button is simply wired in series with the output from the key barrel. This will be on my snagging list for the post build check.

Thanks Peter. I took a spark plug out today and had a sniff. I'm pretty certain that no fuel is getting through. Does your start button work correctly? (I.e. At position 2 of the key). I better take a look at the poppers - I dismissed them as an unessassary item

I wonder if you will also have a incorrectly wired start button too. I took a closer look under the dash this morning. I think that the start button is simply wired in series with the output of the ignition barrel. I have sent an email to Derek to ask. I'll let you know.

Car now with more fuel... No joy. i have have a photo of the correct wiring for the key barrel. However, there is a study plastic cone clipped onto the back of the key barrel (with the diameter tapered down towards the wires end). Does anyone know how this can be removed without breaking it? Simon

By the way I notice that my fog light had the wrong type of switch. It is a spring rocker switch rather than a 'click' switch.

I sorted my IVA admin (and thanks to your help, Peter, I have got my Caterham paper work sorted). My post build check is on the 13th April. I have opted to get Caterham to put it through the IVA; I won't have enough time after the PBC to get it sorted before term starts.

Enjoy it....

I completed filling the diff today (I had to ask Caterham for extra oil). They supplied comma EP80W-90 GL5 Mineral oil. I needed a full 2L before the diff was at the right level (more than the instructions suggest). I found a pipe and funnel seemed to work very slowly but effectively. I just got on with other jobs and occasionally filled up the funnel. I also sorted out my floppy clutch problem with a wire clamp sent on by Caterham. This isn't mentioned in the August 2014 manual but is in the Jan 3014 one. The clamp fits on the other side of the clutch fork. (See photo) I was a bit worried about spring washers that should go on the engine mount bolts (thanks Martin) that were not mentioned in the build manual. I really didn't fancy hoisting the engine again and westling to get the bolts back - potential for disaster here. I rang Derek, and Caterham will sort this free of charge at the post build check (and I think that this is fair enough). I also sorted out the rear lights - no problems here. I just took me a while to realise that the rubber grommet goes on the bodywork hole, not the rear wing hole. I also bust about 4 fuses testing the lights until I realised that the lose number plate wiring was shorting to the bodywork. .if you are building a 160 don't forget to connect the short fuel tank earth wire to one of the wing bolts (RHS). Another small success was removing the 12V socket connector under the scuttle (black, purple/red wires) and replacing it with a socket that I bought from ebay. I went on a caving trip, head down, in the footwell and gently levered out the pins with a small screwdriver. The pins fit neatly into my new socket.... sorted... I bought a 12V waterproof socket from ebay that should fit neatly into the 3cm diameter hole in the fuse box cover (hopefully). Tomorrow I'll finish sorting out the seats. I also need to finishing bleeding the brakes (rather spongy) and solve my engine non starting problem.

Hello Martin, I have leather seats, 4 pt harness and a lowered floor. I have fitted the RHS seat and harness. It seemed to slot in fairly well. The put the seat right back, put the front bolts in (the lever goes under the bar in the cockpit). I then moved the seat forward and did the back bolts. This was a bit of a squeeze, but I managed to get an Allen key behind the seats to hold the bolt as I torqued it up. The harness needed to be fitted before the seat and I needed help from Derek to understand how it worked. However, once explained, it was straightforward. (I'll blog about it shortly). I managed to do the back lights this evening. However, I still can't solve the non starting problem. I'll be interested to see how you guys get on with turning the key. My lighting arrangments seem to work OK except for the RH front repeater. There is some electrical resistance between the wingstay and the chasis. I figure that once I lower the car on its wheels and bounce it around a bit the connection might improve. good luck with the seats. Simon

Thank Martin, i did check the ECU Earth. I understand that this is often a problem. i may try cranking for a bit longer tonight. I understand it does take a long time for the fuel to make it. thanks for the useful info about the brakes too. Simon

Martin, did you manage to get firm brakes? I'm a bit forlorn. Spongy brakes and no engine start... So annoying...

Thanks guys; food for thought here. I'll let you know...

About 10L, maybe 12L.

I fitted this today. It now works for me too.

Ok folks, advice please. I'm having trouble getting the engine started for the first time. I turn the key to position II. I hear the fuel pump and liquid moving. the dash board comes to life. I see an orange engine warning sign and a red battery sign. The imobiliser light flashes rapidly and then turns off (a good sign I think). i push he start button but nothing happens. I move the key to III. When I push the start button the starter motor springs to life and turns the engine. ( a bit weird, the start button is supposed to work on II??) fuel doesn't seem to be getting to the pistons and I can't smell fuel. I have pressed down on the inertia button behind the brake reservoir - it is not that. What am I missing? any ideas...

Ok, this is a bit weird. If I turn the key to stage three and press the start button then the starter motor fires up (this is obviously not right - what is the point of a start button?). no engine ignition yet. I'll try more fuel. Off for Sunday lunch now...

Thanks - I got an email back from The salesman saying that it was always £145. Hmmm... I began to doubt my memory. regarding non starting, I think that those two unconnected pipes are probably blocked off. I'll take a look behind the brake master cylinder... The imobiliser seems to work as described (i.e. Rapid flashing of the red light then off). So I don't think it is that. There is a slightly unhealthy quiet periodic pulsing noise from the engine which cuts off after a while. I wonder if 3L of fuel was enough - will put a bit more in.

NB see edit at the bottom of the blog. The headlamp wiring colours do match (mostly). I tested the lights yesterday.

I also bled the brakes. No air bubbles, but pedal is still spongy (?). not a successful evening...

Glad you sorted it Martin. OK folks, bright ideas please.... I filled my car with fluids this evening (including 3L fuel) and tried to start the engine. The battery seems in good health; all the lights, fans etc work. However, nothing happens when I press the start button. On turning the key I can hear the fuel pump go. However, the orange engine light and red battery warning light are illuminated. On looking around the engine I did notice these two unconnected 'sockets'. (just above the blue tape). do any of you have connections to these? thanks Simon

Yes, great blog. The headlight solution looks very tidy.

I recieved my gear and diff oils from Caterham this week. They supply different oils to the shell oils specified in the build manual (maybe they, like me, found those oils impossible to source in small quantities ?!?) The gear oil supplied is Comma SX75W-90 GL5. The manual says about 1.2L is needed, but I put in about 1.7L before oil dripped out of the side level plug. Access to the side level plug is a bit of an ask; space is restricted. However, my homemade tool worked nicely. I just cut down a 3/8" square piece of steel to about 1.5cm (thanks ebay) and turned it with a ring spanner. (I might go on Dragon's Den with this) I tried a fancy method using a syphon to get the oil in. However, it was a bit rubbish. In the end it was better just to point the container upside down, with the pipe inserted in the hole, and puncture the top with a pin. Once the oils were in I completed the plumbing above the drain plug and plugged in the fuel pipe. (NB I swapped this over the the RH side of the tunnel - thanks for the warning Peter). I have now started to make the connectors for the headlamps ahead of plumbing in the radiator (again). The wiring colours don't seem to exactly match the instructions. I may connect the battery tomorrow to test them... Edit: actually the headlamp colour mostly do match. The only exception is the side light wire from the loom is red/black on the LHS and red/white on the RHS (not red as stated in the 8/2014 manual)

I haven't got my head around it yet, but did you manage to solve the floppy clutch problem with this?

I don't think I'll be taking my engine mount bolts out anytime soon. When I undid one of the bracket bolts (which I mistakenly used as a Earth connection) I had significant problems getting it all back in place again.

Ned, go for it. I'll chip in where I can. I won't pretend to know better than a proper mechanic though. My car might fall to bits soon. Another thing that I missed from the manual was higher resolution photographs. Sometimes you just want to zoom in and see the detail.