700newtons

Peter: I liked your article in low flying. Thanks for the kind words! By the sound of things you are about soon to overtake me with your build progress.

The drain pipe looks a good idea. We used the back of a large socket to tap it in (and got away with it, I hope).

Derek did get back to me with the positions for the cycle wing holes - photos below. However, I note that the wings do clip the body work. I'm told you bend the wing stays slightly to get the more central over the wheel.

i'm snowed under with work at the moment, and so there will be a bit of a delay in further progress...

Martin: all the suspension bolts are loose at the moment. I'll torque them once the wheels are on the ground. However, I expect that I will use the same torque for both ends of the panhard rod.

I hope that you both get all the bits. Hopefully caterham have got a larger stock of parts as more cars go out.

Martin: the last one in the bag a 12mm x 65mm bolt, 2 washers and a nyloc nut.

there were a couple of disconcerting crinkle washers in one of the bags too, but I don't know what they were for.

I think I'm the 4th or 5th to build the kit. We have not heard from the ones before me, I don't think.

Thanks Ned.

by the way I forgot to add; I managed to move the fuel pipe over from left to right when exiting the transmission tunnel (after Peter's previous comments).

A few other 160 builds are due to start this month by the sound of it...

That is useful to know about the fuel line. I'll move mine over to the other side.

Hello Martin,

I'm looking forward to hearing about your build. My job tonight is to get he diff into the back axle. At the weekend I hope to get the back axle in.

Simon

I have since found out from Derek at Caterham that:

• The diff does not need bolts removing. It goes in as shown in the photo above.
• They can deal with the headlamp bracket upper grommet problem at the post build check.
• they are going to send he positions of the bolts for the cycle wings. Apparently the position does matter. I'll post them on here once I know.

By the way, when sorting out headlamp wiring, Holts rubber lube is definately your friend.

Thank you... Google images shows that it is very rectangular van too 

Thanks. After looking at Google images of suzuki Jimny diff I reached the same conclusion.

I taped on the cycle wings this evening - I'm trying to see problems before I drill holes. I notice that the wings have to be fairly far forward otherwise they clip the bodywork on full steering lock. (Unless this is the norm?)

I have emailed Derek about grommets where the wires go into the headlamp bracket. It is still bugging me.

for the diff sealant I'm going to use Granville black RTV silicone sealant. Tell me if you know better!

Thanks for your help. By the way, I reckon it is worth holding off putting the radiator on until the last minute. It significant reduces access. I have removed mine temporarily, until the wiring etc is finished.

Peter: the bolts on the of the diff; I assume they come off (but there is nothing in the instructions) - they just look like they hold something in place, and the diff does not slot in when they are in place. What did you do?

I had a go at getting a grommet in the top hole of the headlamp bracket. However, it soon became apparent that there was no way I was going to get the wires through the hole and down the tube (clearly against nature). I'm going to stick with the arrangement above.

Peter: I'm about to go about bolting the front wings on. The instructions mention that the front cycle wings are marked with the position for the bolts. Do you have this on yours? I painted the underside of mine with stone chip, but I never noticed any markings.

NB the cable might need a grommet as it goes in the bracket (photos of other 160s have this). I will look into it.

A grommet is definitely needed at the bottom end (as stated in the build instructions).

Thanks for that - I haven't had time to look yet...

I had some good news today, my rear axle and wheels will be coming on Thursday. All being well, hopefully the oils too.

Thanks Peter. Interesting. I hope my axle casing comes soon.

Was the gasket sealer supplied or did you buy your own? If so what did you get?

Another thing, do you find the you have quite a few bolts and bits and pieces left over? I have quite a few hose holders etc, and I'm not certain of their purpose. There is a large clip mounted to the engine near the exhaust catalyst too. I have yet to discover what it is for...

Simon

Yes, my thoughts too... Let's hope we are right.

Edit - I checked the build manual; and I have followed the instructions.

.... In memory of great, but unknown, nuclear physicists...

Thanks, I was thinking of trying to get the IVA done myself in Taunton. It might be cheaper for me to try, and retry, for an IVA than get the car trailered up to Dartford for a post build check. I'm not fully decided yet though. I'll investigate what you suggest.

It is interesting to look at the headlamp wiring too... I notice that in both orange and blue cars they get the indicator cables in the sheath (by making a hole) and the bracket has a grommet where the wires go in.

I don't fancy taking them off again...

I notice that the pictures of the car tax badge show £145. I thought it was going to be £30. Anyone know?

orange is definately a good colour... 

Hello Peter,

whoa... You have a back axle casing?! I'm still waiting for mine. I better get onto Caterham. Do you have the oils and wheels yet?

In answer to your questions:

The wiring harness tucks into a tidy space just under the battery ECU. There is a nice little route for this. (A friend spotted this, not me). You can secure it with cable ties. The plugs go neatly into the bottom of the ECU. (Have I understood the question?)

Yes I plugged the earth lead into the threaded hole just to the left of the battery. I'm told a spring washer helps ensure a good connection. The other lead goes to the starter motor bolt (it says this in the instructions for the starter motor, I think).

I think my fuel hose looks ok but I'm holding off before plugging it in (as you can't undo it easily). I was going to get the gearbox oil in and check my other plumbing first but I could be just OCD.

by the way, I got MartinB's photos today. I'll upload them and post a link shortly.

simon

Thanks for this - it will be useful.

Thanks Martin. (A private mail sent).

if you don't mind I'll upload a few pictures so that more people could see it (credited to you of course!).

Simon