DomRees Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 I have searched the archives on this subject, done the simple thing (jetwashing) but now need to do the slightly more complicated thing of applying copperslip. How much do I need? I dont really want to buy a load of it, just to sit there in silence, unused, in the back of the shed. I guess what I am after is a kind samaritan who could provide a glob of it, and perhaps a guiding hand in doing the deed itself?!? cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted April 27, 2006 Support Team Share Posted April 27, 2006 It will come in useful for other stuff as well - wipe a little onto the threads of any bolt you have to undo/replace as it will stop it from seizing. Halfords do actually sell a small tube of it as well as the big tubs. Do a search on here for how to remove the brake pads - it's not difficult - and you just need to put a small smear on the back of the pad (not the friction surface as one poor blatchatter did). As you aren't actually replacing the pads with new, you won't need a brake windback tool. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_C Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Bought a tube from Halfords when I put my new pads in, comes in about the size of a superglue tube for about £5. Cheers Tom FH54WLX - only the car supports ManU, honest! see here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DomRees Posted April 27, 2006 Author Share Posted April 27, 2006 Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 wipe a little onto the threads of any bolt you have to undo/replace ...unless it's one you need to thread-lock... As you aren't actually replacing the pads with new, you won't need a brake windback tool. You will probably need to apply some pressure to get the pads (front, I assume) a little way from the discs - especially if your discs are worn and have an outer lip as a result. If you are struggling to get front pads back in and resort to the spanner trick, don't forget that you need to retract *all* pistons in the same caliper at the same time - otherwise, retracting the inner piston(s) will usually force the outer ones closer to the disc IYSWIM. Some brake info and stuff here Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DomRees Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 Thanks Myles, I have printed off your guide, it looks like even a non spanner-wielding gibbon like myself can do it. What gets me though is that I asked CC Midlands to do them (whilst they were doing the rears) and now it looks like I just wasted a few quid!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclefester Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 Does this idea of copperslip on the backs of pads as an anti squeal solution actually work? I have periodic horrible squealing from what I think is a back brake on our 1991 DD, though it's actually not easy to tell as the sound seems to rebound off the front and rear wings making it hard to place. I've been getting it happen periodically on a Subaru Outback as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve A Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 Yes copper slip definately works. Having just read Myles's brake info (which is very informative ) it seems my front pads have no anti squeal shims and the copper slip stopped my brakes squealing Well worth the £1.99 from Halfords Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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