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CSR diff


Caesar

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I am building a CSR 260. One of the first things in was the diff, quite a struggle as it is a tight fit. Rear suspension assembled, nearside halfshaft in, a little play at the diff. Offside halfshaft in which turns much more smoothly but n/s now locks up after half a turn.

 

Decided to take it all apart and took diff out to return to Caterham but, a prior phone call to their tech dept gave the reply to my question "what should I do?" as "put it back, they all do that! We don't know why but, when you power it up it will free itself"

 

Now it has been a hastle getting it in and out and I dont want to pursue this build any further until I feel happier.

 

Although I trust CC tech I would like a few more observations or previous assemblers opinions.

 

Incidentally, is it due to problems like this that they no longer offer this CSR as a kit??

 

CoSwoRth it!

 

Edited by - caesar on 27 Apr 2006 07:49:47

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It does sound very odd. Whilst you have the diff out again, put the half shafts in and see if they both turn freely now, if not I would ask for a replacement at this stage. BTW, you didn't say if it was open or a limited slip unit. Obviously if it is an LSD, you would get the effect you mentioned *cool*, which shows it's working.

 

As far as the kit thing is concerned, I think that the main reason for not selling kits is that they haven't got time to sit down and write a proper manual, and also that anyone spending upwards of 30-35k would not mind an extra 2.5k! You guess which it would be. Personally, I didn't think the car was too difficult to build at all, but then I have done several Sevens already, though to all and purposes, the CSR is completely different. Talking of manuals, no-one tells you that the handbrake cable has to be installed above the diff. before you fit it, otherre wise you will really struggle to get the adjuster to fit. Rather than take out the diff, I ended up making an extension tube to sit the adjuster further away from the diff, just it would turn. I hope you've got yourhandbrake cable in?

 

Paul J. Life is what happens to me, while I'm planning to do something better!

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If its a ZF plate diff then it doesn`t sound right to me. If you turn either drive shaft then the other should turn freely, If you put the car in gear or hold the prop/drive flange its normal to feel a small amount of backlash between the crown wheel and pinion. If you rotate one driveshaft the diff should not lock. However if you hold /lock one driveshaft and try to turn the other you should have a resistance 30lbs ft to 55lbs ft dependant on how the preload has been set up. You could talk to Phil Stewart he knows all about these diff`s 01959 525105.
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If you're really worried call Phil Stuart at R&R Transmissions. What Phil doesn't know about diffs and g/boxes frankly isn't worth knowing *thumbup*

 

Road & Race

Filston Farm

Filston Lane

Shoreham

Sevenoaks

Kent

TN14 5JU

Bus: 01959 525105

 

 

*arrowright* *arrowright*Harry Flatters *arrowright* *arrowright* *thumbup*

AKA Steve Mell - Surrey AO and Su77on Se7ener

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Ceaser, why not ask Caterham to send you an email confirming the conversation and adding that if the diff is faulty they will collect the car rectify the fault and return it.

 

I think it's OK as I've seen this before.

 

Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here

You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited

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Hi all you respondants

 

Thanks!!

 

Paul, it is not a LSD. Also, due to your (i think) thread on BC I have been careful to install handbrake cable early on: also, as a bit of advice to anyone alse building one ( if there is anyone), take the tank out and drill out the pop rivets on the boot floor panel behind the tank (and replace with rivnuts) then you can play with the diff, suspension and hand brake adjusters to hearts content without too much hassle.

 

Actually, enjoying the build and it feels good to be one of "the few".

 

CoSwoRth it!

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