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Toe-out.


Jules Martin

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I know this isn't a Caterham problem but one of you clever guys out there must know the answer!

My Renault 21 Turbo was modified by BBR and the suspension geometry was altered to avoid the horrendous torque steer you get when feeding nearly 300 horses through the front wheels.

My "After-Care Maintenance card from BBR states a toe-out setting of "10 mins". What does this equate to in modern "laser" language. The nearest I can calculate is 1mm but I could be well wrong! and, having put a brand new set of SO2's on I would like to get it right.Help please,

Jules

 

 

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10mins is 1/6 of a degree.

 

Any conversion from there to mm has to take into account where your are measuring.

 

Toe out on an FWD car is usually so that when the bushes squish under power the front suspension settles to have a small amount of toe-in. This should make the car feel stable under power and responsive as you lift off.

 

If the car feels stable and numb all the time (power on or power off) then you might like to add a bit of toe out. If the car doesn't instil confidence in its directional stability under power then you need to toe-in a bit more. The effect is obviously less in higher gears, and it is at high speeds that this gets important. 80mph is a good middling to high speed to expect a FWD road car to be responsive and confidence inspiring. Find yourself a fast sweeping bend and run your tests there. Adjust the track rods in step by 1/4 a turn at a time and you can't go much wrong.

 

Edited by - Peter Carmichael on 25 Jan 2002 17:06:16

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Laser tracking devices generally calibrated at 0.25mm intervals

 

I calculate 10 minutes as follows:

 

on a 13" rim = .96mm

 

on a 14" rim = 1.03mm

 

on a 15" rim = 1.11mm

 

On a 16" rim = 1.18mm

 

On a 17" rim = 1.26mm

 

On a 18" rim = 1.33mm

 

 

If you ahve larger than 18" wheels you should consider dumping your car in South London or one of the Medway towns......eek.gifeek.gifteeth.gif

 

Fat Arn

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Edited by - fat arnie on 25 Jan 2002 23:13:54

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