Beaulieu / classic

[jonsharland]

I have just ordered a Caterham Beaulieu I have a few questions that I am sure you guys can answer

 

1. Can I get an electronic copy of the build manuel so I can read it before the car arrives

 

2. Are there anythings that I should look out for when building it, any potential problems

 

3. Are there any changes people would recomend like get better bulbs for the lights use braided hoses instead of rubber etc

 

4. I am off to Le Mans in it hopefully (if I can build it in time) I was wondering if anybody could recomend a way of carring stuff (motocycle bags rucksacks etc)

 

Thanks for all your help

Jon

[Casbar]

If the car has a spare wheel, buy a luggage carrier. Or do what I do, don't take a passenger, then pack the boot and the passenger seat.

 

Or if going on the club trip, use the luggage service.

[Slarty Blat Fast]

Last time I enquired there was no electronic file of the manual. Caterham will send you an advance copy if the you ask them nicely.

 

Slarty Blat Fasttongue.gif

[CHRIS CLARK]

In regard to 2).

I think the 'Beaulieu' is using up the last of the available imported (from Australia!) V/X 1600 8v engines. They have often been supplied without a thermostat due to their propensity for blasting water out of the rad overflow. Worth checking what the current fitment procedure is. They can take an age to warm up otherwise (with accelerated engine wear one assumes).

[N Longson]

Hi Jon,

 

I built my Beaulieu (No 5) last year with the help of my dad. Kit arrived on the 16th August and got it finally registered for the road on December 4th. I was limited to the time i was able to spend on the build so you can build them a lot quicker.

 

I didn't get the manual early but i did swot up using Tony Weales book and an old Caterham manual from a guy in work (cheers Phil). Also check out some of the build diaries on Alex Wong's Link Pages. On the whole though it's pretty straight forward and Caterham have an excellent technical helpline. Also if any parts are missing, and there will be, they usually get sent return of post.

 

One worthwhile tip when following the manual is to read ahead of the bit you're doing to make sure you don't miss anything. Otherwise you'll find you assemble something that you need to take apart so you can fit the part mentioned in the next paragraph. This is particularly relevant to the headlamp brackets that are assembled at the same time as the upper link of the suspension - the brackets are only mentioned in the Uprated Front Suspension Assembly section and not in the Standard Front Suspension Assembly section!! Just be on your guard. Apparently the manual was being rewritten whilst I was building mine so it may have improved.

 

Regarding the brakes you'll get braided hoses as standard front and rear.

 

Just take your time and enjoy it.

 

Cheers

Neill

 

DE51 KLU

 

 

 

 

[jonsharland]

Thanks alot for all your advice guys

 

I am looking forward to building it

[Graham Sewell]

Things to think about are some of the low cost options like:

 

4 point harnesses - essential

22% quick steering rack - person choice - probably no cost option prior to delivery

Ali or black windscreen surrounds

When I got my classic, there was a low cost option to upgrade tyres to Yokohama's DO IT!

Heater - if you're a wimp in winter - also useful in the summer if the rad fan fails!!!

Height adjustable dampers - allows a suspension better setup later - probably low cost pre-delivery.

 

 

[simonwelton]

Building the car is easy, get an advance copy of the manual and definitely read ahead.

Hardest part is getting the car on the road legally, are you based in the UK?

 

Si

[MARK WARREN]

Jon, Definately consider the later front uprights, saves messing with oily trunions, the cost difference ' shouldnt' be that great .

Enjoy the build.

Mark.

[jonsharland]

what do you mean by later front uprights, saves messing with oily trunions

 

what is this?

 

thanks

Jon

[Casbar]

Front uprights come in two versions. Ones without trunnions and ones with trunnions.

 

The ones without trunnions have a rose joint affair to connect the bottom wishbone too.

 

The ones with trunnions don't. Trunnions, need to be supplied with EP90 oil at service times.

 

Don't know if the classic comes with the trunnion type as standard or indeed if that type of upright is still supplied

[Graeme Smith]

Not that I've tried a car without, but the Academy front suspension up-grade to a proper upper wishbone (rather than using the ARB as part of the wishbone) always seemed a good idea.

[Taran Las]

Neill,

 

I'm glad you said an 'old manual from a guy in work' thumbsup.gif and not a 'manual from an old guy in work!' thumbsdown.gif

 

Regards

Phil Owenid=blue> biggrin.gif

 

Edited by - taran las on 24 Jan 2002 19:31:51

[AndreK]

FWIW in no particular order:

 

1. Suggest applying waxoyl to the chassis prior to build, especially in any water/muck trap areas and where aluminium and steel meet~save you lots of time later.

 

2. A heater is very worthwhile, unless you are only doing trackdays etc. If you have this option, the cooling system 'spec. has been modified on these latest Vx 1.6 cars to include a triple inlet submarine pipe (rather than a single 'submarine' pipe). You can then use a thermostat (Chris C's point)

 

3. For luggage, the Caterham rack is quite good. There is a picture on the on-line shopping area of Caterham's web site

 

4. When you have built it check that the engine mounting bolts are torqued and have all of the spring washers fitted. My s/h car had 2 bolts shear on the same mounting (o/s/f). It was a lot of work to drill one of them out, all for a £0.50p bolt

 

5. It is very hard to effectively seal the 4 into one collector onto the exhaust primaries~someone else may have an idea for this?

 

6. Sorry if this is a bit granny/eggs but use plenty of copaslip or good grease on nuts and bolts during the build. Stops 'em seizing later on!

 

7. Run it in on good mineral engine oil then switch to a good 5w/40 synthetic or similar.

 

8. If you have trunnions use only EP gear oil in them, you may find one of James Whiting's oil guns useful, when fitted with a 'proper' grease gun end, for this

 

9. If you run into problems this forum is very helpful

 

Sorry to go on...

[CHRIS CLARK]

AndyK.

In regard to point 5).

You can use what Caterham used to suggest in their manuals which was Holts 'Firegum'. It's a kind of thick grey paste that is applied from a tube and goes off hard with heat. No longer made by Holts I believe, it is supplied under their own brand name by Halfords. Stuff is a bit messy to apply and you need to get off all excess as it does go off very hard. Dismantling is a bit more problematical too! Good gas tight seal though.thumbsup.gif

The other suggestion is the use of silicone sealant as that can easily be applied, stays supple, and makes removal of parts less difficult. I don't think it is as effective as it can get 'blown-out' over time.

 

Do you have any more info. re. the triple sub. pipe? I have a friend with a 'Classic' V/x 8v that has this lack of thermostat !

[Barry]

If you're thinking of doing any of the Club's sprints or trackdays, get a FIA rollover bar instead of the standard offering, and 4 or 6 point harnesses.

 

If you go for four-pointers, make sure that the shoulder straps aren't sewn to the lap straps (like the willans E2 Approved supersport range), you want ones that will separate completely when you undo the buckle. Also get ones that are tailored for the car ie not for saloons which need much longer straps. Go the FIA/SFI part of the Willans site, the Club 6 Single Seater is the right sort.

[Casbar]

Barry,

 

Why do you have to have 4 pt harness that seperate completely. Is there some rule to this effect or just personal pref. The Luke belts I have, have the shoulder straps sown to the lap, and are FIA approved.

[jonsharland]

Thanks again guys for all the advice help very greatful. looking forward to meeting some of you at Le Mans.