Roadsport06 Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I am about to get my Seven for building and I am aware that there will be corrosion where the Chassis and skin join due to electrode potential difference. As I am building I will obviously have the best chance to protect against this. Is the black tar-like underseal suitable for this or should I use Waxoyl? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I used a Dinitrol clear chassis wax (which some suggest is better than waxoyl) and sprayed into all nooks & crannies, especially alongside the pedal box between that and the outer skin. This is a well known crud trap and you often see the ali skin starting to bubble up on older cars. I also sprayed alongside all seams where the skin is rolled round the chassis tubes at the bottom. I warmed the chassis with a fan heater and warmed the Dinitrol before spraying to assist the creep into the joints before it solidified. Sad?.....me? Nah ❗ 😬 Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 James, Contact Rif, he went to great pains on his seven to avoid this problem and I'm sure will be able to advise what best to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted March 30, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted March 30, 2006 I second Brent's recommendation My car was recently reskinned and very little corrosion was found on the old panels, even in the 'crud traps', and that was after 11 years and 33,000 miles, driiven in all seasons and weather conditions (the 7 was my only car for a few periods). This is probably partly down to the oiliness of the crossflow ( ) but credit must be due to the clear wax I sprayed over all bare ali when I built the car. I used Plastic Padding 'Metal Protect' which I can no longer find, so this time around I will be using the same Dinitrol wax that Brent has used in his build. I have a reference number for it somewhere but it's not immediately to hand. The nice thing about this kind of wax is that it sets to a skin and won't make a gungy mess (like Waxoyl say), but won't harden or peel and can be removed with a solvent if required, for localised repairs etc. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I reckon wet molecules like oil etc which have; (a) mobility to creep and stick in crevices, and (b) a repusion to water (like oil) are far better to go sticking to your se7en that hard molecules like paint. Which don't. IMHO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I was astonished at the good condition of Crudders chassis when we helped him take it apart for the rebuild. The wax spray he used obviously did its job in protecting the aluminium and the chassis tubes, with a bit of help from the X/Flow, although it doesn't help the car to slide off Armco unfortunately. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted March 30, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted March 30, 2006 That would be a product I'd be happy to put my name to 😬 It might seem perverse but I'd have felt a lot better if the ali had been in poor nick really - would have justified all this work somehow. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted March 30, 2006 Author Share Posted March 30, 2006 Thanks for everyones advice so far. I'd like to look at Dinitrol clear chassis wax, do Halfrauds sell the stuff? Has anyone got any positives/negatives to the tarlike underseal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted March 30, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted March 30, 2006 James - I've found Brent's note re. the Dinitrol wax: It's called 'Dinogard Cavity Wax 3125' and yes, it is available in Halfrauds Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 I wouldn't use any tar like underseal, it makes a terrible mess and you won't want to crawl under the car for maintenance. I would/did just use plenty of Dinitrol and check the underside once a year to clean where necessary and renew and don't forget to spray the exposed chassis members, particularly at the back. As Crudders has said, it is easy to clean off again with solvent should you need to for repairs etc and does have good 'creeping' properties into the seams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Will be doing the same guys - what did you use to spray the stuff - similar kit to the waxoyl pressure spray? Or will I be able to use my new 'Lidl' compressor and spray gun 😬? www.mycaterham.com here 91,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 30, 2006 Share Posted March 30, 2006 Having had my chasssis zinc phosphated before powder coating, AND having had the inside surfaces of the side panels also powder coated, when I pulled the skins off my car a month ago there was no evidence of corrosion along the bottom chassis rails at all. I have never taken any other action to try to prevent corrorsion in this area. K2 RUM - The 7 in front of you is a DIESEL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 A new toy then Angus 🤔 😬 I couldn't find any of the Dinitrol cavity 😳 wax in loose form, as it were, so just bought a few spray cans and used a l-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-ng straw extension to get into the awkward nooks and crannies. Something else I did was to fashion an infill from aluminium to sit alongside the footwell and prevent all the crud that normally collects there from finding its way into the unreachable crevices and acting as blotting paper to hold the moisture and thus promote corrosion. Water can still get in and, more importantly, drain out again but the copious amounts of Dinitrol in there should protect the metal. Btw Angus, are you going to replace the bushes in your suspension arms? If so, can I offer the services of my 25T hydraulic press as it makes life a hell of a lot easier to renew them. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Cheers Brent - I expect I'll be having the wishbones etc re-coated, so I think Bruce pushes bushes in there - but useful to know that there is that facility just down the road EFA - where did you get the zinc process done - by Arch before coating? www.mycaterham.com here 91,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Certainly like the idea of blocking off the pedalbox/side skin gap - was looking at RiF's site last night and he had done the same.... www.mycaterham.com here 91,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DohNut Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 I know what crudders means about finding rust justifying the work - I was amazed at the condition of my 18year old chassis tubes - it made the destruction of the alloy panels somhow wasteful - I dont know what I am going to use to protect it this time round. I got my suspention "hot zinc sprayed" with a device that looked like an Oxy Acetylene torch and a wire feeder. - I dont know if that is the same method as Arnie used. Would a big naked flame be compatible with the brazed joints? (fine with welded joints) I got that done by Stuart at Franklins enammeling in Staines. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 I'll have to speak to Bruce and see what options they have up there. www.mycaterham.com here 91,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 DohNut - yes, the hot zinc process will be ok in a brazed chassis. They just have to be sure to keep the flame moving (which they do otherwise you would be kneedeep in zinc) and the temp of the workpiece never gets hot enough to melt the brazed/bronze welded joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted March 31, 2006 Support Team Share Posted March 31, 2006 When I had mine done, the chassis was blasted back to bare metal and badly corroded bits were cut out and replaced (e.g. front lower cross rail). The chassis was then zinc phospate primed before being powder coated. All new panels were fitted and every one except the back panel was powder coated, inner panels on both sides. This was all done at Arch. There is therefore no bare metal anywhere on the chassis/body. I also used Dinitrol in the crud traps and along the front lower chassi rails. Fingers crossed I never have to do that job again! Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caterhamnut Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 *thumbup*Shaun - that sounds exactly what I will be doing then. www.mycaterham.com here 91,000 miles -1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Although there is no bare metal as such, corrosion will often start where the chassis and sideskin is drilled and the aluminium rivets pulled up in the mild steel tubing which is why it is a good idea to spray the Dinitrol or similar, as you have done, into the seams. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fevans Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 James, for the undersides I am a bit fan of Hammerite's 'Underseal With Waxoyl' - about £5 for a big aerosol from Halfrauds. It goes on beautifully to give a thin, dry, slightly waxy, soft, smooth fininsh. I did my car just after the build three years ago and it still looks like new. Best Regards, Felix. Felix Yealmpton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted March 31, 2006 Share Posted March 31, 2006 Angus, All my chassis work has been done by local firms within 5 miles of my house. I am able to QA each stage of the process, and have been able to direct the design of the chassis mods. The zincing was done by the powder coater. K2 RUM - The 7 in front of you is a DIESEL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadsport06 Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 I went into two halfords' stores to ask for: 'Dinogard Cavity Wax 3125'. The people looked at me like I was mad. Is there any other places that would do this? They had the Hammerite with Waxoyl uderseal so I got a tin of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 Hmmmm, maybe they are no longer stocking it but I only bought a can from my local Halfords, for something else, about 6 months ago. Mind you I'm not surprised the staff looked like that, I think it is a recruitment requirement in all Halfords/Currys/Comet type stores..............."You have the one GCSE and that's in embroidery? I'm sorry but you are waaaaaaayyyyy too over qualified" Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 8 Apr 2006 11:02:01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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