Slarty Blat Fast Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Following up the thread on quick racks I was checking mine out today and found a definite clunk when turning the wheel while stationary. There's no apparent play in the steering at all when driving, in fact it's superbly positive. But with the car stationary I could detect this small clunk under load when switching from left to right. Trying to locate the source by feel I believe it is from the rack - just about where the column enters. It's not the track rods ends, suspension or play in the steering column. New rack - only done 1200 miles. Anyone else experienced these symptoms? Slarty Blat Fasttongue.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted January 17, 2002 Share Posted January 17, 2002 Does anyone know if a Caterham rack still based around triumph herald/spitfire components? If so, this rack has a spring and shims providing preload/damping on the pinion which can be adjusted by removing shims. Also, a source of clunking can be the guide tube bearing bush at the nearside end of the rack tube which wears and play becomes evident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 If you have a quick rack you should have a large nut on the top of the rack where the column goes into the rack. If you slaken this off you can then use an allen key to tighten up the centre section and remove any play. You can then do the locking nut back up and check... If I remember right you have to make it quite tight, but make sure that it is still free to move etc. The lock nut is 36mm A/F but can't remember the size of the allen key. If you are around Bracknell, drop in and I'll have a look if you like. Phil Waters 1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philwaters Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 If you have a quick rack you should have a large nut on the top of the rack where the column goes into the rack. If you slaken this off you can then use an allen key to tighten up the centre section and remove any play. You can then do the locking nut back up and check... If I remember right you have to make it quite tight, but make sure that it is still free to move etc. The lock nut is 36mm A/F but can't remember the size of the allen key. If you are sure it is not the rack then could it be the U/joint at the bottom of the column? Never heard of one go, but could be duff. A new one should be too expensive, or try to borrow one to test out first. If you are around Bracknell, drop in and I'll have a look if you like. Phil Waters 1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwb Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 Please DO NOT tighten the rack damper screw (allen screw secured by the 36mm locknut) 'tight'. Setting the rack to pinion clearance is a delicate and precise operation , indeed the correct method is to use a DTI to measure the clearance (nominally 0.002 and will vary along the rack bar length). A twat of a job and I would like a penny for everone that I have done. De7on, if you would like me to talk you through the operation please email me with a phone number and I will oblige. Steve B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 18, 2002 Share Posted January 18, 2002 Andy My rack used to clunk when you turned the wheel at a standstill, the problem went away on its own, but now there is some play in the rack. Just another warranty issue, along with the leaky diff. Cheers BC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slarty Blat Fast Posted January 18, 2002 Author Share Posted January 18, 2002 Thanks, guys. I was tempted to play with the adjustment but resisted the temptation. What I really needed to know was either "Yes they all do that" or alternatively "for god's sake don't drive it!". I'm sure it's in the rack not in the UJ or anywhere else. I'll live with it for a while then roll it into the local (75 miles away!) agent for a 2nd opinion. Your answer, Bob, seems the most likely. And, yes I had the leaky diff too. Local agents replaced the seal at first service - clearly it had been nicked during factory assembly. Slarty Blat Fasttongue.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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