Adrian M Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 I’m swapping my 1.8k engine for a R400 engine, has anyone got any removal and installation hints and tips? I’m planning to leave the gearbox in the car. Ade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DohNut Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Coffee Cigarettes Latex gloves Well its friday afternoon 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted March 10, 2006 Support Team Share Posted March 10, 2006 You'll need to support the gearbox at the front. I used a jack whilst removing the engine but as I had to wheel the car around afterwards, I used a bit of 2x2 across the top of the engine bay and very large zip ties through the top holes in the bellhousing and around the wood. Take pictures before you remove the old engine and label everything you disconnect - trust me it may look obvious where it goes but when you put the new engine in you will have forgotten where all the cables and hoses went (well you will if you have a memory like mine 😳). That's all I can think of for now. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted March 10, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted March 10, 2006 Having tried it both ways [ 😳 ] I much prefer to take the engine and box out together personally - coupling and uncoupling them in-situ is a nightmare. What are you using hoist wise Adrian? I recently bought a load leveller from Machine Mart to use with my chain block and it's an extremely useful bit of kit, allowing you to vary the angle of the dangle as the tail end of the 'box comes out of/goes into the transmission tunnel. Highly recommended It was about £25.00 IIRC. Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 Took my engine out this winter (HG and CRB change) and left the gearbox behind. Even emptied and refilled the gearbox with oil through the top cover whilst the engine was out. Need to take a datum measurement though to ensure that the gearbox is in the correct position though. Had no trouble refitting the engine to the gearbox whilst in situ. Bozz Sorry, but my karma just ran over your dogma My Chocolate Orange here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 I've been involved in at least half a dozen engine swaps leaving the box behind - and a couple taking the box out. On balance, I'd say we had a smoother time leaving the box behind. One tip/tool to think about is a narrow blade (e.g. angle grind a jemmy) to help split the engine from the box - it might not be needed though as sometimes the two just come straight apart. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian M Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 Thanks for all the tips. Separating the engine and bellhousing in the car was fine and the original engine came out without any problems. The original bellhousing was easy to remove from the gearbox and the new one fitted fine (with the longer bolts). We were just about to start fitting the new engine when I realised that the right hand side engine mount requires much longer bolts than the original. This is due to the bolts having to pass through the oil pump mounting block. So anyone upgrading to a K series engine with a dry sump will need new bolts for the RH engine mount as well as the bellhousing. Ade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Crudders Posted March 13, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted March 13, 2006 Apologies for the 🙆🏻 advice - glad it went well. I helped with C7 CAT's clutch change yesterday and leaving the box in worked fine. Why I made such a bollocks of it on my car I don't know 😳 Crudders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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