Johnty Lyons Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 PLease Alex that would be great, As for the passenger well Liz gets as much fun out of the car as I do and we are both tall And we tour a lot in the car with the se7ens lot. so I ain't giving up the footwell!!! And further more Liz also commutes to the hospital in winter so ditching the heater is not a good option A midwife with cold hands is not a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted January 19, 2002 Share Posted January 19, 2002 Oily. I too had thought about the head to sump return hose (thanks Lawrence), but I now have this image of a plumbers nightmare!!! What exactly did you do to (theoretically) ease the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted January 20, 2002 Author Share Posted January 20, 2002 ... a small point I have yet to get my head around. How you read oil levels with a dry sump - from the holding tank? JH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted January 20, 2002 Share Posted January 20, 2002 Chris, On the exhaust side of the head oil gathers aroudn the spring seats, since the engine is canted it doesn't naturally flow down the oil drains which are designed for a perpendicular installation. Where I can I have eased the drain slots which lead into the bolt hole drains to allow more of the oil to drain on the two outside groups of spring seats, for the two inside groups which effectively have no drains I have drilled a small hole through the webbing that constitutes the support for the bolt tunnel, allowing oil to drain from the inner two groups into the bolt holes and thence to the sump. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawrence_Z Posted January 20, 2002 Share Posted January 20, 2002 Oily Is the oil return path only down the sides of the head bolts? or is there oil returning via the oil filler route and the breather route? Would it be beneficial to allow drainage into these breather routes? Lawrence (more questions than answers) smile.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorAtle Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 Any more info on the QED DS system? Like who's making the pump and other bits, would it fit in a Caterham, is a tank included etc etc Would a sump pan designed for the Elise be bad for a canted engine like in the Caterham? I like the idea of having the pump on the exhaust side since my alternator is on the other side. Tor Atle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 Just spoke to Pace new sump casting arrived to day and according to Neil is the dog's b******s some machining to be done then get car back Engine mount is OK so pump can be mounted and wer'e into tank location System should be sellable end of Feb. jj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted January 21, 2002 Author Share Posted January 21, 2002 Would I be correct in assuming that with a dry sump situation the dipstick becomes redundant as the oil is now held in a "storage" tank? If so, how is oil level measured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 Yup dipstick is redundant. Measureing oil level depends on tank design. Greg, Q 880 RAE (Green/Ali XF) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 I think you do it by eye in the Pace ones. The oil covers a certain plate that's visible through the filler. If it drops below, you need oil. Anything that gets rid of the carppy Caterham dipstick is a blessing. Almost worth doing the dry sump thing for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyedwardc Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 On the Pace tank the oil level should be checked with the engine running or immediately after switch off. The level should be about 1cm below the baffle visible through the filler. The action of the oil dripping through the holes in the baffle helps get the air bubbles out of the oil as it drains down. If the level is set at or above the baffle plate the tank can't work properly. Sorry if this contradicts Andy's advice above but as far as I know he has a wet sump and an Apollo tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted January 21, 2002 Share Posted January 21, 2002 No problem Gary, my memory was just wrong teeth.gif. Knew it was by eye though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Howe Posted January 23, 2002 Author Share Posted January 23, 2002 If the dipstick becomes redundant with a dry sump set up, is there a standard route to take to blank it off? JH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted January 23, 2002 Share Posted January 23, 2002 You could use the VW New Beetle method smile.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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