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Slight end float on Live axle


philwaters

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Hi,

 

Have found that I have a very slight amount of end float on the passenger rear wheel on my Ital axle.

I am planning to go Ford - but not until I recover from the cost of fitting the Zetec - so am after a quick fix to get it to last a year or two.

I was reminded of a fix that was developed but can not find it in the archives. Can anyone help - which 7 place was it and any ideas on what it will cost and how long it will take?

 

Phil Waters

1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif

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From what I remember,

 

Remove the rear plates holding the half shafts in place

Ensure that the half shafts are properly located within the axle

Note the depth of the gap between the bearing and lip of the axle casing

Phone Caterham Midlands to get shims made to measure

Install the shims

 

Cheers,

 

Graham

 

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So I don't need to remove the half shafts and/or bearings then?

 

For your description do I take it that the shims basically just pack out the gap between the out edge of the half shaft and the retaining plates?

 

Thanks for your help on this - was very depressed yesterday thinking out the cost of going Ford with no money left in bank after the Zetec!! Feeling more positive now.

 

Phil Waters

1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif

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Phil, I hope I'm not the prophet of doom here but my Ital axle developed this fault, and it turned out to be the half shaft moving back and forth in the bearing, the bearing should be an interference fit on the shaft, mounted at a certain dimension from the end, so that as the brake back plate pulls up to the axle flange the shaft protrudes the correct amount to allow fitment of the brakes and wheel carrier etc. so movement of the shaft wouldn't be corrected by installing shims, and may exarcerbate the problem by side loading the bearing, the fix in my case was to get a new bearing installed, this called for the use of some really animal tools, huge press, as the hub is on a taper at the end of the shaft, and the correct alignment of the new bearing is critcal for correct re-assembly, so may need the dealer to install the bearing, on mine I had three tack welds applied to the bearing / shaft mounting point to stop the same thing happening again, but it could be some thing less drastic, just knackered wheel bearing?, have fun Nigel.
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In my case, I had tried uprated half shafts, new bearings and a variant on tack welding (aka superglue of some description) and the fault still recurred. It was only the shims that finally stopped the problem.

 

As ever, it comes down to limiting the initial movement so that the car doesn't act like a massive slide hammer. The shims ensure a 'perfect' location of the bearing and hence the half shaft and thereby reduces end float.

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Will I have worn my keyway in the mean time? How much is enough damage to warrent replacement and how can I check? I seem to have a small amount of play when rotating the wheel, but it s hard to tell if that is not just down to the play in the diff etc.

 

Just been quoted £160 for doing both ends at Caterham Midlands, about a mornings work... ouch, but got to be done. I could measure but was told it might need packing on the other side of the bearing as well.

 

Phil Waters

1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif

 

Edited by - philwaters on 15 Jan 2002 13:18:02

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There are two options, shim the bearing which the 7 workshop did for me and i have not had this problem since, and i had it a lot!!. OR call james whiting who with paul harvey has a new bearing retaining kit based around some kind of grub screw thingy, does the same job as shims with out being a one off job that shimming is.

 

 

Grham

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James solution use the new disc brake conversion - the alloy hub contains the bearing retainer. Not a cheap solution, but one which might be worth considering if you know you will be keeping the Ital for a while.

 

Phil Waters

1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif

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philwaters.

I feel that I may be developing the same Ital bearing problem (I've had the brushes done), clunk rear right as I come off the acceleration at low revs, coming off the torque, a slight weep of oil at the hub (or then it could be the suspension - what do I know). But could you explain why the 'the new disc brake conversion' should be had, its cost, and would it solve the problem in its entirity? TIA

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Hi Jace,

 

Don't know a lot about it. But basically I think you remove all trace of the old drums and fit a special alloy collar to which the disc brakes then mount to. Within this alloy collar is some form of retaining the bearings and preventing the end float.

As I am probably going to fit a Ford axle in the future I don't want to spend too much to fix this at the moment and have just about booked it into the 7 Workshop as they are nearer than Cat. Midlands.

 

I would mail or call James Whiting about the discs if you are interested. I was not given a cost - can't imagine why!

 

Phil Waters

1600 X/flow - soon to be 2000 Zetec wink.gif

 

Edited by - philwaters on 16 Jan 2002 13:55:19

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