Nick VVC Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 I'm fitting uprated from brakes to my K Series. It's been a while (OK I admit it, about 15 years or more) since I did anything more than basic maintenace & polishing. Is there anything I show think about/things to beware/special tools required/new curses to learn? Thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Dixon Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 I fitted up J. Whiting Alcon front brake upgrade. Job is a doddle, no special tools required. Easily done in half a day Worst bit is bleeding the things once you have finished as you have to bleed both back and front brakes and that requires jacking the car up to take off the rear wheels to get at the bleeders, and the new calipers have 2 bleeders each caliper instead of one, so even more bleeding to be done. But dont worry the job is easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 Consider getting them fitted by Caterham or an agent. 795 includes all the bits, VAT and fitting. Plus all the aggro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Mears Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 Yes, I agree, get a price from James to fit them you might be surprised. Had mine done last year, stopping quick is as much fun as out and out speed smile.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick VVC Posted January 11, 2002 Author Share Posted January 11, 2002 Thanks guys. The parts are already out of the boxes, so I think I'll have the challenge (!!??) of fitting them myself - a few words I'll probably live to regret! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 i FITTED THE jw KIT AND AM VHAPPY WITH IT. Two things - bleeding the rears is important and takes ages as did the front for me. You might as well change the fluid at the same time- I did. Pedal feel is now realy good. Also - if you start to really use the brakes (I was told by a friend that you press them as hard as you can then keep pressing harder, then press harder still. That was prtty accurate as a statement. However, once I started oing this I realise dI needed to uprate my front springs as the car nosedived (92 suspension opn 170lb springs) so you might bear this in mind. Other than that the change is dead easy. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick VVC Posted January 12, 2002 Author Share Posted January 12, 2002 Nigel, Any advice on type of brake fluid? Or is a case of simply going for a good spec/brand? Thanks Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asklepios Posted January 13, 2002 Share Posted January 13, 2002 Nigel/Geoff, Any comments on pedal travel? Did you also change the master cylinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 Suggest any 5.1 brake fluid, but not a silicon one. Only other thing I found was that after a couple of hundred miles a re bleed made the pedal better still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Dixon Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 Following an engine upgrade (upto up around 200 bhp) during 2001 I have now also replaced the brake master cylinder with Caterham's upgraded one.. I now have a rock hard pedal and marvellous brakes once the pads have warmed up (using EBC Yellow Stuff pads; even when they are cold they are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 I've no problem with brake travel on the standard master cylinder. I used DOT 5.1 from Halfords which they say you can change after 2 years. Nigel Mills - 2.0 Zetec carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick VVC Posted January 15, 2002 Author Share Posted January 15, 2002 Graham, 'scuse my ignorance, but why not a silicon one? Also, what does the DOT 4.0, 5.1 etc actually mean - I asume the higher the number = better? Cheers Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted January 15, 2002 Share Posted January 15, 2002 Look back on previous threads, this has been discussed in some detail. Silicon is not compatable with normal fluids and is known to not be friendly to any rubber components in the braking system. It is also very expensive. However, in some applications it is still recomended, but I don't think that applies to road cars though. It is important to distinguish between dot 5.0 (silicon) and 5.1 (ordinary polyglycol) fluids. Usually the higher the number the higher the boiling point. (The dot bit is the USA standard) However, I notice Castrol only claim their fluids as being dot 4 yet they have a higher boiling point than some other manufacturers dot 5.1's, so its a confusing area. I guess quality is what counts. Edited by - Graham Perry on 16 Jan 2002 07:16:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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