paul jacobs Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Silly question, and I know that there is an obvious solution to this, but given that there is no way of locking the top ball joints taper into the upright, when I tighten the nylock, the bloody thing just goes round and round, even with the car on its' wheels with weight on it. How do I stop it going round long enough for the nut to start pulling the taper into the top of the upright? Paul J. Hard work never killed anyone ........ but why take the chance! [Except building up my new CSR kit, suspension finished, wings on, engine/gearbox in, currently connecting and filling.] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Several ways, but assuming you have the upright out of the bottom joint, just stick the jack under the disc and jack the upright up against the top joint. Turn the nut slowly and you'll find it'll grab the taper. Edited to say that if you don't have the bottom joint out, try jacking up the car with a block of wood under the lower wishbone...that should do it. Paul Edited by - Paul McKenzie on 14 Feb 2006 18:43:05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Nick Chan Posted February 14, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted February 14, 2006 Couple of ways: 1) Use an ordinary nut to tighten the taper into the upright to stop it turning and then use the nyloc afterwards to fully tighten home or 2) Get someone with substantial weight to stand on the top of the ball joint whilst you tighten the nyloc up I thought that Caterham supplied a nut specifically for (1) above which is then discared after use. HTH Nick Now the Orange HPC - A 2.0 VX - 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 I use a well used nylock to pull the taper home then remove and fit the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Or use a long clamp to pull it all together, or use a webbing roof rack strap to pull both wishbones together tight Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Edited by - Grubbster on 14 Feb 2006 19:40:01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 The bespoke non locking nut is in the front suspension fastner pack. At first I hadn't noticed it and was just about getting myself into trouble! /regin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Blimey All I did was firmly push the tapers into contact, leaned by dainty body weight on the fitting using my left hand and did-up the nut. As long as you achieve and maintain firm taper contact, it shouldn't rotate - there's no need to be mechanically unsympathetic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 All well and good but boy its a different kettle of fish freeing it!! Grant Taylor OBNS Motorsport 😬 183 BHP of Black and 'Stone Chip' excitement. 😬 here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah - and after having tried to free one that has been in place for a number of years, the temptation is to slap so much copperslip on the new one that even the plain-nut doesn't always do the job. I ended up using a g-cramp to hold the wishbone to the rod-end while I did the nylock up. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 I find one foot on it and a 22mm ratchet spanner works fine. Can be an interesting balancing act Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 I've tried a couple of those without success, but stupidly hadn't thought of using a non nylock nut first to get the taper in. Will try this, many thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sootysevener Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 Ensure the taper is clean and free of any grease or other lubricant and then use a G lamp to pull the taper on. To be certain a non locking nut to pull it tighter onto the taper befor e replacing the standard nut with the nyloc. Fiddly but easy enough when you've done it 2/3 times 🤔are you sure you got the right taper - if not then it wont have enough face to face contact to grip David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillinda Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Myles - the temptation is to slap so much copperslip on the new one .... David - Ensure the taper is clean and free of any grease or other lubricant .... Coppaslip or bare metal? What is the correct way to reassemble a ball joint? Phil 1997 Brooklands Green 1.8 Supersport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted February 16, 2006 Share Posted February 16, 2006 Good engineering practice: a thin smear of general purpose grease or Copper Grease. This will be displaced on insertion of the taper, but will help minimise water ingress and/or corrosion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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