Paul Bowden Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 If I were to replace my current EU3 K- series with a EU2 what would I have to change/alter? If the EU2 came with ECU would that help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 You need the loom. Yes - having the ECU is a big help (well, a prerequisite at least... ) If you're talking about running an EU3 on an Emerald (which has an EU2 plug) then that's a whole different ballgame and there are details on my site with regard to how to construct a converter. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted January 17, 2006 Leadership Team Share Posted January 17, 2006 Paul, there's various options that would enable teh change, but that may depend upon what exactly you are intending to achieve? Any more details on the route you are considering? Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Shirley the engine can simply be replaced, then the cam cover taken from the EU3 > new EU2 engine, the alternator changed over EU3 > EU2, the induction carried over, and all the sensors carried over if need be at the end of the day all the engine parts dont know what block and head they are strapped to *thumbup* C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Agree with Dave, the engines are internally the same (apart from detail changes possibly i.e. different supplier of liner or bearing but dimensionally the same). The only thought I had was about the exhaust cam - do the EU2 versions have the semi circular lug for cam phase sensing? I think they do. BC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 They have the lug on the cam, but no sensor and nowhere to fit one (unless you're talking VVC head which has provision for cam phase sensor on one of the inlet cams IIRC). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 You'll need to carry over the cam cover as Dave says so you'll automatically have the cam sensor too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Doh! I should learn to read... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bowden Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 I am considering changing my Eu3 1.6 K for an R400 engine, which I think is most likely to be an EU2. So it will be a complete R400 engine( If I decide on that route)ECU, Engine loom,Exhaust etc, but I am unsure how that will mate 😳 with what is in place now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Engine-to-car loom connection might be different (or might not - someone will know). Exhaust cutout in the bodywork might be different. Otherwise I can't think of any incompatibilities. You might want to check out gearbox input shaft length and splines, as there have been some changes in that area over the years. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 I switched from EU3 VVC to EU2 R400 power nearly three years ago. I didn't have any difficulties with changing the engine bay loom from the EU3 VVC to the EU2 style R400 one. I did have to change my MFRU relay box, the EU2 one has different internal connections, hopefully you can buy that with the loom/ECU. I can tell you the part number of the earlier MFRU if you need it. I also changed the lambda sensor to the older EU3 style which has a different connector but I needn't have bothered (ref below) The only problem I had was that I have an early R400 loom from a dodgy batch. It went back to Caterham and was modified but it still has a persistent battery drain caused by the lambda heater being continually energised, which is ironic because the R400 MBE ECU has the lambda control disabled! I've now tracked this to an extra brown power wire on the MFRU large plug which I need to remove (from pin 3 I think). Other than that, everything else fitted no problem. The only K series gearbox issue I know about is that the early six speed gearboxes have a 19mm spline to suit a standard 1.4K series clutch. When the later 1.8 cars came along and were fitted with 1.6 flywheels (the stock rover flywheel is huge) and AP clutchs they reverted to the ford ~25mm spline. An EU3 car will have no problems in this area. Drop us a mail if you have any particular issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Bob - do you know if a EU2 1.6SS MEMS ecu is likely to have that issue? I'm trying to track down the cause of battery drain on my car - seemingly caused by one relay in the MFRU staying on when the ignition is turned off. cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Lazer, when MFRUs get old they can start doing all sorts of bizarre things. They start sticking on/off at will seemingly. My father-in-laws P red Rover 416 had an issue where if he took longer than 3 minutes to fill his car with petrol it wouldn't re-start for about an hour. The 3 minute issues is the time it takes the ECU to switch of its main relay. The dealers fleeced him for £300 to fit a new ECU which didn't cured the problem. I had a poke around and tried to repeat the symptoms. It was easily fixed by pulling the ECU connector off (at which point the MFRU clicked) then re-connecting, then the car would start. We swapped the MFRU (~£20) and the problem went away. I wont be helped by the fact that you haven't got a receipt for your battery 😬 (sorry) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 I'm fairly sure in my case that it's the ECU rather than the MRFU as the ECU output is incorrect after the ignition is turned off. If I pull the ECU fuse everything works fine when it's replaced. I'm hoping to swap the MFRU/ECU to double check soon. Good memory about the battery btw! Sorry to hijack your thread Paul cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Corb Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 I've still got the receipt (Feb 05)...sorry I'm so lazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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