charlie_pank Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 For anyone who's interested, my starting problem seems to have gone away now. The final thing that fixed it was to put another relay in the circuit. Relay 1, which has been there for about 2 years is as per Chris W's fix, relay 2 is thrown by relay 1 and connects (via a 30A fuse) the + terminal of the battery directly to the + post on the solenoid. I decided on this fix as the 'fly-lead' always worked when I got the dreaded click, and I concluded that there was too much juice being lost by running up through the big fat red cable from (+) up to the FIA switch, and all the way back again. It now seems fine even when really hot. Maybe I could have achieved the same fix by replacing the FIA cables (I had already replaced the switch to no avail) but I didn't have the cables to hand, and did have an extra relay lying around in the garage. Things which didn't fix the problem: 1. Chris W's relay fix (worked for a couple of months) 2. Cleaning the solenoid 3. Replacing the solenoid 4. Re-wiring the loom spur that connects the starter relay to the solenoid (& all the connectors) 5. Re-locating the loom spur away from the exhaust manifold 6. Replacing the FIA switch I reckon there are many different causes all with the same 'click' symptoms, so any of the above might be valid for fixing your particular problem, if not maybe some of the things I didn't try below: 1. Replacing/topping up the battery (the fly-lead always worked, so I reasoned the bat was fine) 2. Wrapping the exhaust - some have suggested that wrapping can lead to localised hot-spots in the manifold 3. Shielding the starter motor/solenoid - there is VERY little room between them and the manifold in my case. 4. Replacing the big fat resistor in the FIA switch 5. Replacing the big red cables that run to and from the FIA switch. Anyway, I hope this info is of some use to you... Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 My setup is the same (see ) and it's still fine a year later including a trip round Europe in pretty hot conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 did you try a new relay in the 'relay mod' setup? That cured my second click problem. Originally after the Chris W fix, I changed out the relay as one terminal ws quite rusty. It worked a couple of months and then began failing. Changed the relay again and all hunky dory. So I would change the relay you refer to as relay 1 and you will prob be able to get rid of relay 2. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted August 28, 2006 Author Share Posted August 28, 2006 Yes, already tried that, thanks :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Paul Richards Posted August 28, 2006 Area Representative Share Posted August 28, 2006 Charlie Interested to read this thread - missed it when it originally started. I think I started the whole relay mod thing off originally and like you found that a fly lead always worked. My cure was to retain the MFU as it is and simply put a relay in the circuit taking the power straight from the battery via a relay activated by the lead which is originally connected to the starter solenoid. This is what I think you are calling relay 2. It worked for me and has done so for about 5 years without any hint of a problem. I hope you have the same success. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 28, 2006 Share Posted August 28, 2006 Charlie, does your relay 2 do the same as relay 1? Ie when 2 is activated it takes the feed straight to the starter solenoid from the batt? And does relay 1 take a feed straight from the battery to (now) activate relay 2? If so, there is no logic to the fix as relay 1 must be working to activate relay 2. So relay 1 should be able to activate the solenoid if it is working ok. Confused! Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted August 29, 2006 Author Share Posted August 29, 2006 No. When I originally fitted relay 1, it was as a bypass for the one in the MFU. So the LT side of it was powered by the starter button and the HT side of it sent loom power (via 3m of FIA switch wiring) to the solenoid. In its new guise relay 1 is still switched by the solenoid, but all it does is throw relay 2. Relay 2 takes sends power directly from the battery (NOT via 3m of FIA switch wiring) to the solenoid. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gridgway Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 ahhh, ths mist clears! The relay mod that I used (which I think is the Paul Richards one) is a new relay activated by the previous solenoid feed (that comes from the MFU relay) and takes (fused) power direct from the battery to feed the solenoid. I think your original relay mod replaced the use of the MFU relay with a new relay activated from the ignition relaying a feed from the FIA circuit to the solenoid. Looks like you have applied the Paul R mod to the Chris W one! Assuming it's fixed - well done!!!!! Graham Editted to say in pedant mode that it's all LT!!! Hopefully your HT is restricted to the spark generating system. 😬 Edited by - Gridgway on 29 Aug 2006 13:30:31 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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