Brucey Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 I just knew this was going to be a problem! I'm trying to remove the shocks to fit adjustable platforms on my 1993 1400K standard track. Dispite using the correct size Allen Key, I managed to round off the pathetically small hex bolts (both sides!) I have removed the bottom wishbone (complete with Bilstien shock) on one side for closer inspection. As I see it, I have 3 choices: 1. Hacksaw through the bolt against the front of the shock bush. This will leave the threaded part of the bolt to drill out (I can make a drilling bush to centralise the drill), but I don't know what thread it is and even if I did, it's unlikely I will get a tap long enough to reach. 2. Try heating (oxy?) the threaded portion and try to unscew the bolt with an oversize Allen Key. This will ruin the shock bush and powder coating at a minimum and not guarantee success. 3. Try to get some second hand bottom wishbones. Bit of an expensive way to remove shocks! Anyone had the same problem or got any more ideas? (No, I don't want to fit wide track....yet!). I havn't even tried to get the back ones off yet! Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Bruce, Saw the bolt, then bend the end around using the damper as a lever. You should then be able to get something on it to undo. Replace the bolts and make sure you use 10.9 HT versions, Caterham have in the past got 8.8's into the parts stock which can shear. Edited by - EFA on 7 Nov 2005 00:05:17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 EFA, Thanks for your idea. I assume you mean saw the bolt at the cap head end of the bush and use the shock to bend the bolt. If I saw the other side of the shock bush, the cut will be flush with the tapped hole. Hadn't thought of that, although I'm not sure there is enough clearance to get the shock out of the wishbone. Hmm, I'll go to bed and think about that one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveley Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 i had same problem with mine , if you know anyone in engineering with a spark erosion machine they could spark erode a bigger hexagon in the bolt soak with plus gas ( penetrating oil )and try again . rust seemed to sieze around the head of the bolt on mine which i scraped away (as best i could) with a thin blade once i'd soaked with plus gas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?Id=94120 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Brucey If all else fails I have just removed my narrow track wishbones. They're up for sale but if you need them you can have them for free. The back ones should be easier. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 I just managed to get mine out. It's a comb of threadlock and corrosion I guess. One of mine came out with the thread rounded but the new one went in ok. Assembling with copparslip and some kind if pin arrangement to prevent the bolt working loose is much better than threadlock in this app. The bolt should be 12.7 spec and could be a bit hard to saw through. I toyed with the idea of drilling right though the wishbone and then having a rounded angle brazed on to allow a longer bolt through and nut on the end. Never got around to it and perhaps the hole through and no brazed i bush would be a weakness? Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Edited by - stevefoster on 7 Nov 2005 13:49:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Are you sure you've got the correct allen key? it should be a 7/32" and I would suggest you get one set into a socket. Sorry if you knew that. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 I must be lucky then... I used a metric key at the w/e - I guess the corrosion was sufficient to pad it out... This thread has got me wondering how I/we can prevent the replacements from causing a problem in the future... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Plenty of Coppaslip on the shank and you'll not have a problem. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSL Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Also got mine out with a metric allen key & rubber mallet to shock it round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Batter a torx drive in - might just grip enough . . I think Mr. EFA means something along the lines of cut the bolt by the head - use the shock to bend the bolt (without bending the shock or the wishbone), slide the shock off the now bent bolt and use a lenght of tube, ring spanner etc on the bent bolt to turn it. If you have an angle grinder and are happy with using it, use some of the really thin discs - 1mm or less - makes a nice thin clean cut. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Brucey on Angus's Car we found the problem was that the bolt had corroded inside the damper bush, the thread wasn't seized at all (inside the steel damper bush is an aluminium sleeve wich the steel bolt goes through, nothing like mixing your metals!). You could use heat but you'll bu99er the damper bush and Caterham seem to struggle to supply replacements, for the powder coat you can paint with smooth satin hammerite to match I might be tempted to try Bricols approach with a Torx or Star drive and use an air hammer and lots of release agent Lastly do a search there was a link on Blatchat to some magic freezing stuff that helped undo seized stuff Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 Ureka! I managed to get my front bottom 😳 shock bolts out. I had to bite the bullit by removing both bottom wishbones (with shocks still attached). I then ground a 6mm hex down a tad (7/32 = 5.5mm) until it was a 'hammer fit' into the rather sad looking hex. (about 5.7mm A/F). I made a shield from a thin plate to protect the shock and heated the threaded part with a blow torch to soften the loctite. Hey presto! both bolts unscrewed no problem without too much damage to the powder coating (it needed touching up anyway). I'll buy new bolts of course, but I think I'll try to find a locking adhesive that allowes easier dismantling! I used to use a soft threadloc when I was into radio control car racing some years ago. Many thanks for all your help and advise, especially Mick Day for his most generous offer. I'm not sure if the tears that filled my eyes were from gratitude of WD40 fumes! You are some of the best friends I've never met! Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 Brucey Glad you solved the problem. When my suspension goes back together again I'll be tempted to do without the thread-lock & just check the torque on a regular basis. Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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