lancelot Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Whilst contemplating the 200 lb/ft torque setting on my rear hub nuts I recalled a tool i saw in my dad's garage. I located what appears to be a torque multiplier which has 3:1 stamped on the side. It has a 1/2in input and 3/4 drive output, with seperate a long bar presumably to steady it. when the input is turned 3 times the output only turns once. Friction losses aside I reckon I only have to torque up to 67lb/ft. has anybody ever used one of these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Yes, I have used them on big flange bolts for power station equipment and on pressure vessels for submarines. As you assumed, small side for input, large side for output and steady the body with the 'handle' against something handy (probably the ground for this). Also remember you will need to turn the input 3x as many revolutions to achieve the torque which can be a pain if your torque wrench doesn't have a ratchet built in. I have used a Britool 1/2" - 1/2" separate ratchet to get over this problem when working in confined spaces before. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancelot Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 So, if I steady the handle against the floor, does this mean I avoid the P.I.T.A. of trying to chock/lock the wheel whilst I'm tightening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Biddle Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 No, you will still have to prevent the wheel from turning, the bar on the torque multiplier is to couteract the torque generated at the body of the multiplier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancelot Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 Flippin 'eck! Sounds like I'll need an arm multiplier too........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 200 lb / ft torque ?????? That's not a torque - that's a spring rate. 200 lbft is tho . .. 200 lbft plus torque wrench in sears - just over $100 (might have been a sale tho - very good and pretty accurate too). . . or very similar in Home Depot for slightly less - but didn't buy that so don't know about it's accuracy. You need to ask someone in the USA very nicely . . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancelot Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 Well..... If I'd known it was for the local branch of 'Pedants Anonymou' I'd have used Newton metres......... What's all this american stuff for, Sears, Dollars etc.? Are there no big nuts in good old Blighty which require that degree of tighening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Locust Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Do we know someone in America then Bri? Lancelot - if you are building a new car, bleed the brakes then get someone to sit in and hold the brakes with all the wheels on the floor and put the socket through the wheel centre (cap removed) if it will fit. I borrowed the spare wheel from a friend's Westfield for this as std Caterham wheels didn't have a big enough centre hole for my socket. Ian Green and Silver Roadsport 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 One alternative might be to do what I did -- borrow a 200+lbft wrench from your local tyre-repair shop (in my case, ATS). JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 8, 2005 Share Posted November 8, 2005 Alternatively find a foot long bar and sit 200lb on it . . . Or do what I did - stuck a 6ft bar on it and stood on it . . . the torque setting is simply to keep the nuts on. Bri (ps the ex-colonists would have you saying Newton meters . . ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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