Myles Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Pulled the front suspension off today. The NS steering rod-end thing popped out of the steering arm nice and easily once the nut was off - but it was impossible to remove the OS item (ended up having to unscrew the rod itself leaving the ball-and-socket jammed onto the steering arm. I clouted the sucker with everything upto (and including) a lump hammer - and also tried pressing it out with a vise - but succeeded only in buggering up the end of the bolt/stub thingy. Am I doing anything wrong? It should come out, shouldn't it??? Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 If I'm thinking of the right bit, then don't you need a joint splitter, or some extra ballast? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulyb Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Myles I had exactly the same thing when I was changing my steering rack to +22% earlier this year. I also bu66ered up the thread end with a lump hammer 🙆🏻 (fortunately fixed with tap / die set) I ended up using a large flat blade screwdriver between the arm and the joint and just about got it apart, though ended up knackering the rubber cover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 Mav - I think you're thinking of the top ball-joint. I'm on about the steering-rod one. Paulyb - thanks, I'll carry on with violence of one form or another. How much was the replacement btw? I'm hoping/assuming it's cheap as chips given the original source...? Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulyb Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Myles - didn't need a new rod end, just the rubber boot - from local factor Edited by - paulyb on 6 Nov 2005 16:50:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 AH, sorry - missed the bit about the tap and die... 😳 Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Where are you clouting it? On the end of the threaded section? If yes - you're onto a loser. Take the same hammer you've been using and clout the end of the steering arm - if you have the disc and hub off, take two hammers and swing both to hit each side of the steering arm in the location of the track rod end at the same time. The shock will normally rattle the tapers free of each other - done loads with no damage to joints, arms or boots - apart from the odd boot when my aim has been crap. You might have to swing pretty hard sometime tho. Apologies if old dogs, grannies, eggs, tricks etc . . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 6, 2005 Author Share Posted November 6, 2005 Thanks Bri - I'll give it a go. It's the first time I've tried to pull something like this apart - and give the ease with which the NS one came apart, I thought I might be doing something daft... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Once you get the hang of it, the ball joint splitters etc will go in the back of the cupboard. Some will frown - but it's made of strong stuff - all you will be doing is elastically deforming it so the tapers separate. If you are bothered, you might want to touch up the end of the arm so rust doesn't appear if you damage the plating. Sometimes, you cannot physically get a hammer in, so a suitable, solid, drift can be used to transfer the force. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Myles, the track rod end is a tapered fit into the steering arm, you should be using a ball joint seperator. I split dozens over the years and have never had one that would'nt undo. I've seen the two hammer approach in action and I've also witnessed it breaking an arm ❗ Most TRE are re-torqued to about 20lb.ft Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 I'll probably sort myself out with a splitter then - I see they are cheap, judging by the copy of Machine Mart I have to hand. I like adding to the tool-collection anyway*... *I'd probably need to buy another hammer for the alternative method.... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Myles, I've freed off some really tight TRE's, not only on 7's. Let some weight, not too much, of the car rest on the TRE near to the joint and give the end of the arm a sharp clout with the lump hammer. This will normally pop the taper. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted November 7, 2005 Author Share Posted November 7, 2005 Norman - the suspension is off the car now - and it is the steering TRE (Tapered whatity-what?) so it shouldn't bear load in a way that would help free it. FWIW, I *did* clout the sucker from underneath with everything from a rubber-mallet up to and including a lump-hammer - but no joy. ☹️ Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 The weight of the car on the end is not really to force it free - it just ensures it pops free at the moment the shock frees the taper. Your aim does have to be good - I've only ever damaged the boot - not my arms! But I have broken a screw type splitter on an old joint that hadn't been moved for a large number of years - two good clouts with a lump hammer as shown by someone in the know and off it came . . . I think I know where my surviving two types of splitter are . . . Machine Mart in Bradford had a "vat-free" day yesterday - and will be having another next sunday - your local one might be .. . wonder if they will work out the only time I buy anything is on these days - their 1mm thk slitting discs seemed cheap so had a few for those REALLY awkward joints . . Bri Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Myles, With the recent success of removing my front shocks, can I be bold enough to suggest you combine the previous responses. Use a ball joint splitter (lever arm ones are better than wedge ones, also leave the nut on loose if you have any threads left!to locate the end of the splitter). Put the joint under tension, then give the arm a good twack with a hammer (decent size) on the outside of the taper. It should pop off! Have fun, Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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