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New coil, new owner


Ant Payne

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Forgive what's probably a very basic question, but I am a complete novice (literally, never done any work, on any car, short of changing a flat tyre) - the AA man who towed me home last week says my coil has gone. Is this a job that a total novice should sensibly take on and, if so, where do I get a replacement and some instructions on how to fit it?!

 

Car is a '98 Superlight with K series 1600, with modifications made by previous owner that I am only gradually learning about. I do know, after the rolling road session when I had an Emerald ECU fitted, that it's up to 164bhp.

 

Ant

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Hi Ant,

If it is the coil, it is a pretty easy thing to change - 3 bolts hold it on to the side of the engine block- 2 bigger ones and one smaller one on the centre of the bracket that is part of the coil. Its a bit of a b*gger to get to.

Coil is a standard Rover part - not sure of the number.

I don't think they are known for going that much though - might be worth checking a few other things - for example, when we first got our car we brioke down a few times (that day!!) and it was the low tension wires that go inot the coil having a dodgy connection - the low tension wire are inthe form of a small black plug that clips onto the top of the coil - as opposed to the thikcer single hi-tension lead that goes to the distributer.

 

There will be someone local-ish to you who I am sure will be happy to help you change the coil if you need a hand and a few spanners.

 

IMO it is not a job that is so hard one should pay a garage to do.

Welcome, by the way - you will always find an answer and help on this forum *smile*

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

87,756 miles in 4 years - 1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car

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  • Support Team

Straightforward job but a bit fiddly as it's difficult to get to. The coil is located on the side of the engine block underneath the inlet plenum. You can get a replacement from Elise parts or your local Rover dealer. When I replaced mine the Rover dealer was twice as expensive but I was in a hurry and couldn't wait for delivery.

To remove the old one disconnect the LT and HT leads (and rev counter if connected there) and undo the 2 or 3 bolts that hold it to the block. Replacement is, as they say in the Haynes manuals, the reverse.

 

Yellow SL *cool* #32

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...forgot to add - I have a spare coil here you could try and fit to see if it solves your problem, but obviously you can't get the car here (or can you - near Staines?) - more than happy to help out this way, and perhaps point out a few other 'useful to know' Caterhams pointers.

 

How/why did you break down - what were the symptoms?

 

www.mycaterham.com

here

87,756 miles in 4 years - 1st 1.6k Supersport, '95 Motor Show car

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for the quick responses and sorry that I'm only now replying - I've been away with work for almost a month and have just got back (the car hasn't been miraculously repaired, sadly).

 

Symptoms, if I recall correctly, were that the engine cut-out while I was waiting at a junction, about 10 minutes after starting out - I thought I'd stalled but AA man reckons it cut-out. In any case on trying to start it the (new) starter motor turned but it wouldn't fire, although seemed to nearly get there a couple of times. I would describe the various bits AA man tested before concluding that the coil was the problem, but I can't(!). To be honest, since then I haven't tried it.

 

Many thanks for the offer of the spare coil test - actually I know Englefield Green well as I was at Royal Holloway but it's a bit of a way to be towed from home so I think I shall have a bit of a play this weekend and see how I get on. (I will more than likely be back on with some very simple questions very soon!).

 

Ant

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Ant

 

the Emerald is very sensitive to voltage drop, if the battery is a bit worn the starter will draw so much current that the ECU get's little or none so the car won't start. If it starts OK with Jump Leads but not on it's own then try replacing the battery first

 

Mark

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