Mim Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 I have oil seeping out where the bell housing meets the sump. (Caterham dry sump system)Despite having the engine out and replacing the rear crank oil seal is still no better - Any suggestions? (preferably without having to remove the engine!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 I had this problem. the first time it occured it was just the sump not sealing correctly on the block but at the back where it meets the bellhousing. Re-sealing the sump (about 1hr) with the black GM sealant cured the problem. Then.... I started to get another leak which I thought was the same thing again until futher investigation showed the oil to be coming out of the small hole in the bottom of the bellhousing & the joint between sump and bellhousing. Engine and box out revealed it was clutch fluid from the slave. A common problem where the seals in the clutch slave give up and it starts to leak. Hope this helps...If I can help further just mail me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 If it's only a little bit, you can ignore it and treat it as a chassis anti rust system. If it's leaking from the block to sump interface, it probably only leaks when the car is stationary. If it's too much to ignore, did you reseal the sump when you changed the oil seal? Get some OE GM black silicone sealant, remove and any old sealant and reseal. There shouldn't be a gasket here although I have been tempted to try one one day as my car leaks from here too. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 2, 2001 Author Share Posted December 2, 2001 Thanks guys. Alex - I did reseal the sump with the black OE GM sealant when the engine went back in as that was also weeping. That now looks to be oil tight. However the original leak persists. It happens when car is running but appears to get worse when stationary - 6 inch puddle on the tiled garage floor! - or someone elses drivewayis too much to ignore! Captain Chaos - It also is dripping from the bellhousing drain hole - but I am pretty certain it is engine oil not clutch fluid. My next plan is to remove sump and reseal the main cap (No.5)bearing. Apparently its a bit of a b***er to keep the sealant in the grooves when putting it back together ? Any further suggestions welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 Oops! Double post. Edited by - roger king on 2 Dec 2001 12:50:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 It might be a leak around the rear main cap where it is supposed to be sealed to the cylinder block. This joint has to be filled with sealant at assembly, but sometimes this works less than perfectly. Unfortunately, the only answer is to remove the main cap and do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 I'm going to be doing this as well this whilst my engine is out. Getting the cap out is a pain though. Not an easy job. It is a pain to get the sealant into the groove and keep it there as you push the cap back in. I have considered using a spinal needle for this but I don't think it's bore is large enough to allow sealant through! Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asklepios Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 Well Alex,we will just have to "tap" you for advice ,as this is a very "fluid" situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 The only way to get the no5 cap sealed correctly is to use loads of sealent. In my experience it is this joint which is most prone to leaking. Make sure that was well as the grooves being full of sealent, that you put a big dollop on the mating surfaces which the cap bolt passes through. Let the sealent go off an trim any excess lumps off! Only use the GM sealent. Also the selector shaft seal on the gearbox can leak, but you would not get a 6" dia puddle from this. (You may not get any leak froinside the Caterham DS bellhousing - I don't run one so I am not sure. Alos be aware that the seals where the scavenge pipes meet the sump are also prone to leaking and the oil can run along the sump vane and will drop from the bellhousing/sump joint. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 2, 2001 Author Share Posted December 2, 2001 Its comforting to know that this does not seem an uncommon problem amongst fellow VX owners! The main cap is off - and I will be resealing it next weekend. I am a bit suspicious of ther two oil ports adjacent to the bolt holes- I assume these are meant to drain back into the sump however its seems to me that the effectiveness of the seal against the sump in that area is critical otherwise the oil could easily route itself down the outside rear of the sump and out through the bell housing sump join?Or maybe I am clutching at straws to aviod the engine removal again! I doubt whether i'll touch the car until next weekend however I will keep the posting updated as it may be of help to others. Thanks for your help so far.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 2, 2001 Share Posted December 2, 2001 Mim, The two holes adjacent to the main cap bolts? You do have two long bolts holding the sump to the no5 bearing cap don't you?? Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Arnie - Had to think there for a minute! Laying under raised car looking up at engine - there is definately 2 oilports either side of the bolts. (Perhaps I should of mentioned that the previous owner had the engine built by SBD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Forget that last posting - Yes I see what you mean - Long bolts through the sump - not oil ports as first thought. Too much Rioja with the roast beef yesterday!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 So you did have these two long bolts fitted?? Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Yes Arnie, both long bolts were fitted. It was whilst I was under the car and about to undo the main cap bolts, there was oil dripping from both these holes. Hence my first thought about them being oil ports... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 The other thing to be sure of is that the bead of seal runs around the inside of all holes, and that there is a nice big blob at the four thresholds between the block and the No.5 bearing carrier and front cover. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 3, 2001 Author Share Posted December 3, 2001 Thanks for the advice - I looks like its mainly down to ample albeit strategic use of GM sealant. I will keep the posting updated with any progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 9, 2001 Author Share Posted December 9, 2001 Having resealed the No. 5 main cap and the sump with copious ammounts of GM sealant as advised the result with the engine running was a couple of drips again from the rear sump/bellhousing join. I shut the engine off and inspected an hour later - there was a small pool from the same joint (tax disc size) This being about half the size of what I was getting before. Although acceptable for the time being this was originally a totally oil tight engine. Any other suggestions as to possible causes welcome.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 9, 2001 Share Posted December 9, 2001 I have managed to crack my sump so it leaks a little - sure you have not doen the same?? Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 10, 2001 Author Share Posted December 10, 2001 Arnie, I am open to all suggestions. If there is a crack its certainly not that obvious to the eye. It could I suppose be a hairline crack at the rear face of the sump? Is there a way of checking? Despite it being a dry sump system, when the the car is stationary with the engine off there is a couple of litres of oil laying in the sump which I guess is normal. Would you know if this level above the sump join to the block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 Mim, 1. Only by looking very carefully. 2. I dont know if the Caterham level exceeds the sump/block joint - I would think so as the 5th cap would leak only when running otherwise. Have you thoroughly checked the scavenge hoses - these are a favorite spot for oil leaks source, with the oil running back down the sump to the rear - the lowset point! Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mim Posted December 12, 2001 Author Share Posted December 12, 2001 As youv'e been good enough to offer advise , it only seem polite to keep you updated. I will remove the sump and No.5 main cap once more this weekend and repeat the sealing process all over again...(using even more sealant this time!)In the process I will also carefully check the sump for hairline cracks. This leak is now becoming an obsession!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carburet Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 I assume on switch off the oil fills the sump presumably by seeping through the oil pump until it finds a level depending on how high the tank is but probably above the block sump join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 Aha, Phil Stuart, Arnie, et al. The V/X does have an Achilles heal after all. Thank the Lord. I was beginning to think it was only 'K' that had problems!!! Still hope you sort out the problem soon Mim! Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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