Phil Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 It should be quite low but what? To many people just wind them up as tight as poss inclueding staff at tyre bars. X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 55 lbft or 75 Nm according to the build manual Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 Thanks, quick reply. I am looking into buying some Titanium wheel nuts and I have posted futher down, a lot of people are worried about the strength but I feel it is a case normally of people over tightening that causes the problems. X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 And put some copaslip on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 ...and torque them when the wheel is cold 😬 Seriously, I torque mine before every venture out on track, and it is noticeable how much more you can do them up when the wheel is warm - effectively stressing the studs when the wheel cools down. Charles --- My SuperGraduates 2005 diary My Caterham Academy 2004 build and race diary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 I use to tourque mine at 85Nm - but this has always been from a wild guess. My tintop is also fitted with M12*1,5 and has to be tourqued at 110Nm. Copaslip is not an option, its an obvious MUST! /r Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 if you put copaslip on them you WILL over tighten them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Yep - any lubricant will mean you will massively over tighten them. Afraid I rely on feel - it's worked so far. Could always do what kwik fit did to a mate - run them up with the air wrench - then stick the toque wrench on - it clicked at the right torque setting . . . he had great difficulty getting them to believe that if they torqued them over the required figure, of course the wrench clicked! And now would they like to try getting them back off again! Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Yep - any lubricant will mean you will massively over tighten them. There is a specified % to back the torque figure down by to prevent overtightening. I use 8%. Can't remember where I got this figure from though. Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 If you leave off the lubrication, they won't seize if you take the wheels off as often as I do... 😬 Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gambo Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 I may be a numpty here, but if you are using a torque wrench set to a predetermined setting, how can lubing the wheel nut make you over tighten it RED 2.0 HPC now on throttle bodies Edited by - Gambo on 5 Sep 2005 19:21:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted September 5, 2005 Author Share Posted September 5, 2005 Bricol I agree, people like crap fit use this lazy way of doing it and pull the wool over your eyes, ask them the setting and they have not got a clue. I thought that the thread was lubricated but not the seat where it meets the wheel. Is this correct? X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 dont use any lubricant and check them regularly 55lbft never feels tight enough and its always the n/s rear that comes lose first ❗ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas Guirey Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 You must NEVER use copaslip or any other lubricant - without the friction of the thread you can stretch the studs before you will reach the setting on your torque wrench. Better to throughly clean the thread with a wire brush and put some copaslip on the back of the wheel hub to stop it corroding on to the hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 Cor this could be a can of worms ❗ Doing wheel nuts up with no lube can mean that the fixing torques out due to friction in the taper before the stud has stretched sufficiently. Remember that the stud is only like a piece of elastic that pulls the two surfaces together. If it's not tight enough to start with, the two surfaces (wheel/hub) can move and cause the nut/bolt to loosen. Over,,,, PS When torquing you must keep rotating until the setting is reached; If you stop at 85% the stiction will mean that at the next pull the torque required to break the stiction will be higher than the specified final torque. As implied earlier. Over,,, Edited by - susser on 6 Sep 2005 12:47:37 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 IMHO use of a torque wrench is not a reliable method due to the aforementioned reasons of varying friction in both the threads and the surface beneath the nut. The torque figure quoted 55lbft would have been calculated I suspect with non-lubricated threads or compression surfaces. Adding lubrication reduces the friction with the possible resultant over stretching (and stressing) of the bolt or stud. For very large diameter or long bolts the angular tightening method is used. The joint is tightened until the joint is closed and then a further prescribed angle of rotation is applied to the nut . Sometimes on very large fasteners (steam turbine cyclinder bolts for example), they are also heated after the initial tightening so that the angle can be easily applied without huge torques. When the bolt or stud cools it remains stretched. A science in itself Bozz It's not MANGO it's TANGO (McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_h Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 I use the boll@ck method. When appling pressure your boll@cks will lift. 😳 If one boll@ck pops thats enough. If two go then that's too much. 😬 😬 White road legal 2.0 VX race car 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 And I always thought they flogged up our turbine casing till their arms got tired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 In my experience the LP cylinders were flogged up (flogging spanner and 14pounder ) but the HP and Ip casing bolts (much bigger and longer) were heat tightened. Bozz It's not MANGO it's TANGO (McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susser Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 Bozz I bow to your superior knowledge. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted September 6, 2005 Share Posted September 6, 2005 HP and LP headercaps on 40 yr old boilers in the Magnox sites were ' Torqued' with the trusty flogging spanner and hammer, when it stopped leaking it was tight enough! 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted September 6, 2005 Author Share Posted September 6, 2005 So reading between the lines. Do not lube your Boll@cks Gently torque her up to 55lbs and she will be happy, unless she is a bit of an old boiler. X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 😬 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 I think we've wandered off the thread a bit here but if I remember rightly the steam conditions produced by Magnox Reactors verges on the 'wet' 😬 and is relatively low pressure. Bozz It's not MANGO it's TANGO (McLaren Orange and Black 1.6SS) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Boss.... when and if they were running! 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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