captain chaos Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I've got a big brake set up all around and those piddly little handbrake calipers that are as good as a chocolate fireguard on the back and I've finally decided they're going and a line lock is the order of the day. For any of you that have reverted to this method can you give some tips as to how to locate it (i'm thinking it wll go where the current handbrake is installed but I'm open to suggestion) and where to buy the bits etc.. Thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 On second thoughts i might need to retain the current handbrake for MOT purposes. I need a line lock as a backup for Donuts and then I can just adjust the handbrake once a year for MOT purposes. What do you all think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dent Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I had a master cylinder installed that was operated by the hand brake mechanism. Works well and has got through the MOT with out problems. A bit of fannying around to get everything sorted, but the end result is pretty good. Fun getting al of the air out to begin with. I dont care who's it is, It's floating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I can't remember the name, and I'm not 100% sure a link has been posted in BC - but there is a solution available from one of the independant kitcar makers that converts 'any' race clapper to work as a handbrake. Basically, you end up with two plates behind each pad and a cable-mechanism that draws them together. I've not heard anyone try them out yet - and FWIW I'd treat them as MOT bodges and possibly take them off again afterwards, but it is an option... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ged Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I was just going to suggest a hydraulic handbrake, a la rally cars. I'm pretty sure that the MOT requires the handbrake to be mechanically operated though. I can remember welding some little drilled tabs to the top of the pad backing plates so we could pass some pushbike brake cables through, these were connected to the handbrake lever and so appeared to be operating the brakes. Not sure if it was for MOT or scrutineering though. I did hear a tale of a guy who drilled a hole through the tunnel so that a large screw driver could be dropped through and into the propshaft UJ. Obviously couldn't be tested on a rolling road brake tester, so probably just one of those motoring myths. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted August 24, 2005 Support Team Share Posted August 24, 2005 Myles - the company you are thinking of is Marlin. Details here (half way down the page) and here. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 24 Aug 2005 09:05:07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Cook Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Ged, I recently had a hire car in Poland and it was fitted with just the setup you describe as a security device. Only difference was that instead of a screwdriver it was a steel pin with a padlock hole in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Gary, have a look here at the position of the line lock which is the plain ali handle facing forward, not the red handle which is (was) the band brake handle. edited to put another picture on here Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Edited by - nverona on 24 Aug 2005 12:52:51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Or you could fit an electic line lock, I've just done this on my car. The solenoid sites just below the master cylinder with a little button on the dash to activate it. BUT as with the line lock you have to apply the brakes first and then press the button to hold which ever line you put it in on, then release the brakes to free the other wheels. Mines on the front brakes as that seemed like the sensible place for tyre warming etc. 😬 Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 Norm, That looks like the thing i'm after and the electric linelock is another good idea. OK, I need a bit more detail about wht's involved and how to get the bits. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captain chaos Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 Chaos, sorry didn't see the request. To do as I've done you need to remove the tunnel cover, cut the brake pipe and remove a small section. Then flare the two ends (after putting the connectors on the pipe). I fixed the acual line lock with two jubilee clips around the chassis tube, Fit the two pipe to the line lock, bleed the rear brakes and refit the tunnel. The electric version is easier as you can fit it under the bonnet and run the wires to the dash. However the electric one will be on/off whereas the lever type can be gradually let off. You can ring me on 0870 080 2300. If you're near Sheffield you're more than welcome to pop roand and I'll do it for you. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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