Andrew Dent Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 As this is my first time at engine removal, could an old hand at removing the K series put down the basic steps so I can follow and not have such a steep learning curve. I have read the manual, and it should be in reverse order, but there is nothing like picking the brain, pulling the experience of someone who has been there before. I am at a disadvantage that I have not built the car from new. Thanks Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 I've just removed mine ...... Go for one final blat ...... have a fag , bottle of beer . Disconnect battery Drain the oil , coolant and gearbox oil . have a fag , bottle of beer . Disconnect throttle cable depressurise feul line Remove inlet manifold and plumbing . have a fag , bottle of beer , have a piss . Disconnect clutch cable . Remove hoses on the inlet side . Remove header tank . remove nearside diagonal remove coolant pipe Have a fag , bottle of beer , bag of crisps . remove manifold remove alternator remove any remaining wiring - earths , starter motor etc remove reversing switch on gearbox slaken gearbox mounts have a fag , bottle of beer Obtain hoist strap up engine loosen engine mounts remove mounts slip 'er out have a fag , bottle of beer . stand back & imagine how easy it would be to throw in fireblade engine - always seems easy when your half cut teeth.gif Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dent Posted November 22, 2001 Author Share Posted November 22, 2001 dave thanks for that. will try it out over the next week. Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 You may find the following proceedure helpful in both assisting you in th removal of your existing engine and improving the performance of your car: 1. Remove K series engine 2. Rent a skip 3. Put K Series engine in skip 4. Fit Vauxhall engine Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 thumbsup.gif teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murph7355 Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Arnie's suggestion has the added convenience that the Vauxhall engine would have been in the skip when it was delivered. Here's how you do the engine thing: 1) Go to bank manager 2) Cry a lot about feeding the kids and buying new shoes (whether you have kids or, indeed, feet). 3) Secure larger overdraft. 4) Pay your favourite 7 specialist to take it out for you. And while it's out spend even more money on other bits you'd like. 5) Go to (1) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dent Posted November 23, 2001 Author Share Posted November 23, 2001 FA why would I want to fit extra lard when I alway thought the idea was to go lighter rather than heavier. ANdrew Andy, HAving to go to a higher level than the bank manager for funds approvalteeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 How does less weight make you go faster?? The weight of your vehicle has no direct influence on how a car travelling at speed overcomes its greatest enemy - Wind Resistance. More power = Faster Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 You should remember that if you decide to remove the K and throw it in the skip , you would need to hire a much stronger engine hoist to lower the Vx back in teeth.gif dave Edited by - Dave J on 23 Nov 2001 09:35:56 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 One is naturally more careful with serious valuables eh? Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Andrew, Depending on what you plan to do on the engine after it's out, I reckon you could modify some of Dave J's steps (but retain the refreshments bit!): Gearbox oil: You can plug the rear end of the box with a plastic bung as fitted to a new box -- try a Ford dealer for one. I found that this avoids having to fill the box in-car (requires a degree in contortionism!). Inlet manifold and plumbing: You can lift out the engine with all this kit still attached. Alternator: Again, there's room to lift out the engine with this attached. Starter motor: You could leave this attached until the engine's out of the car (easier to get at that way). Reversing switch on gearbox (not essential, but good advice -- the little terminals are very fragile and can easily catch on the chassis!) I'd add a few items, too... You'll need to remove the silencer (obviously), but you'll also need to raise the engine about 6" before you can actually detach the exhaust manifold. You'll also need to cut about a squillion ty-wraps... Also, a good trick to see whether you've disconnected all the cables, wirng, hoses etc that you need to is to check whether you can see daylight all round between what you're about to lift and what is intended to stay behind. Good luck! JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Comments for reverse switch should probably also apply for the speedo drive..... Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Do you need to take the engine and gearbox out as one? If not, you shouldn't need the bung. It's qute easy to remove a Vx engine whilst leaving the engine in place. This might be because it sits upright rather than lop sided? Don't forget, your car will understeer less with a Vx engine as well. tongue.gif Dave Walker said so. teeth.gif Although, having said that, I had more trouble with the back end of your car, Andrew. It's the fastest seven forwards, sideways and backwards across grass that I've ever driven! Alex Edited by - Alex Wong on 23 Nov 2001 12:32:45 Edited by - Alex Wong on 23 Nov 2001 12:33:47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 The engine will come out separately if you remove the engine mounting brackets.. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Dent Posted November 23, 2001 Author Share Posted November 23, 2001 Alex dont quite follow "It's qute easy to remove a Vx engine whilst leaving the engine in place" did you mean to mention gearbox somewhere in teh above? wink.gif Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Alex has a twin VAuxhall engine car in development - hence why VDU is off the road! Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julians Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 This is probably a very basic question to someone that has done it before, but I havent so:- When you remove the engine and gearbox how is the propshaft held in at the gearbox end, is it just slotted in and so will just slide out when you pull the gearbox and engine out, or do some bolts have to be undone. Also in a similar vein I presume one has to remove the transmission tunnel cover and the gear lever to remove the gearbox?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 The propshaft just slides into the gearbox. No bolts there. It is possible to get the gearbox out with the tunnel cover coming off but it's a fiddle. It's not the transmission cover that gets in the way. The gearstick is more of a problem. Also without the cover off, you have to get the reverse switch leads off by some other means. On reflection, yes - you should remove it to remove the gearbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Arnie, Don't tell everyone!!!! It's supposed to be a secret. I thought I'd improve the turn in by adding weight to the front. smile.gif Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 .........but you'll also need to raise the engine about 6" before you can actually detach the exhaust manifold. Why go to all this bother? To remove all-in-one manifold: detach silencer, remove detachable chassis rail, undo & remove manifold studs, & if it won't lift out at this stage, remove water rail, lift out manifold. Mick Edited by - Mick Day on 23 Nov 2001 20:50:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 There were a few bits I forgot , like removing the speedo cable , removing the tunnel top and removing the gearlever . The manifold came off easily with the engine still attached to the engine mounts ( silencer & collector removed )as in Micks method . Dont forget to hack 15mm off the manifold studs whilst the engine is out ..... makes it even easier to remove the manifold next time . Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Well, Mick, it's not a heap of bother as you lift the engine anyway. All you have to do is stop lifting after 6" or so, detach manifold, and then continue lifting. No need to remove the water rail at all that way. BTW, I was assuming that the studs actually remain in the head -- but I know sometimes they come out with the nuts, which of course makes removing the manifold a doddle! JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMMO Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Is it possible to remove the propshaft with the engine and gearbox in place? Is it neccessary to do this before removing engine and gearbox? What about putting it all back together? How difficult is it to line up the propshaft with the gearbox output shaft? Two man job? I'm taking my engine out next Friday. Can't wait to get stuck in. AMMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 >>Is it possible to remove the propshaft with the engine and gearbox in place? Yes, if you remove the diff, it will come out with the propshaft. >>Is it neccessary to do this before removing engine and gearbox? Absolutely not. It can just stay in place after you remove the engine and box. >>What about putting it all back together? How difficult is it to line up the propshaft with the gearbox output shaft? Two man job? It's not that difficult, but easier with 2 people. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Can you weight the K series engine with the bellhousing and gearbox off but otherwise complete? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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