Jam Mad Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 i have just worked out why my last radiator started losing water... it rubs on the inside of the nose cone. any ideas ? i notice that j whiting do smaller bushes than i'm using at the mo', so i might look at fitting four of those to move the radiator back a fraction... but i haven't looked closely at that. i think the last owner and builder of the car stuck a bit of neoprene or something between the rad and the nosecone at the corners. am i alone, or does anyone else have a good fix for this ? j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 Jam Mad, Steve Gibson had the same problem with a 1700 Super-Sprint. I'll ask him what he did. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 Daft question, but the rad can mount in two positions. Are you sure you have it in the correct position for your chassis???? Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 22, 2001 Author Share Posted November 22, 2001 not such a daft question ! being new to this mechanical malarkie, sometimes the obvious doesn't seem quite so obvious. i'll check that out. i just fitted the 'new' one in the same position that i found the last one in, without really thinking about it. cheers arnie, j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 James, I think the mountings move the rad up or down around 40mm which could be too much, but check ot out and see. Its normally the jubilee clip on the top hose which interferes with the inside of the nosecone. There are some certian combos of bit which do not fit together though. I have a problem with the rad being too close to the front ARB and so my rad is moved forward about an inch on spacers I got made up..... Good luck! Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted November 22, 2001 Share Posted November 22, 2001 James, Spoke with Steve, apparently he and Kenny had the same problem - caused by drooping rubbbers - oh err missus. The fix, I am told is replace the mounting rubbers and /or grind out the inside of the nose cone where the rad. is rubbing - bottom offside I think in both cases - I'm sure Kenny will correct if incorrect Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 23, 2001 Author Share Posted November 23, 2001 what is it best to use to do the grinding ? and yes, it's at the bottom offside on mine as well... j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miraz Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Hmm...mine rubs at the top (yes it is on the lower mounting) I can't move the radiator back, because there is no clearance between the fan and the front arb. I'm thinking about moving the fan to the front of the radiator to make more room behind it. Miraz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 The fan behind sucks. It'll be nowhere near as efficient on the front. Even if you cause it to blow instead of suck you'll probably find that the blades are designed to suck not blow (or am I talking crap?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Jam Mad. I thought you wanted to do 'radiator rubbing' (closely related to brass rubbings, but for mad Seveners!!!) If you find that the rubber bits (known as Bobbins) are droopy and have a 'set' on them (ie when there's no load on them they still droop a bit) you can get a bit more life out of them by fitting them rotated by 180* so the set is now upwards. Won't last forever, but may help. Edited by - chris clark on 23 Nov 2001 19:28:34 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Got your mail thanks Paul. I did have this problem James too, I could not get my head around why I always was topping up header tank with no obvious leak.....I then spotted some "water rust" on lower zeus fastener of nosecone.....I removed nosecone and spotted a syringe like jet of water coming from bottom corner of rad. I brazed the pin prick hole where it had been rubbing and decided against changing rubbers as they were new...I also decided against solid mounting the rad so I grooved out GRP on nosecone on inside but it holed the rad again. I finally trepanned a hole directly under corner of rad in nosecone and problem was sorted for good.............nobody can see the hole and the 1 1/4 " diameter hole I made helps my VX power to weight ratio...............not!!!!!!!! Kenny HPC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 The Rad can rub on the top nearside and lower offside of the nose. This has nothing to do with the locations used for mounting as the rad is bassically an interferance fit! Solution with flate piece of steel and hammer simply apply a flat to the two corners and repaint when finished. Sounds crude but it works and saves either a star burst or eventual melt down of the nose / Rad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 23, 2001 Author Share Posted November 23, 2001 wow ! so either bang my radiator into a new shape with a hammer, or drill a hole in my car !!! thanks for the advice folks... i'm going to go for whichever solution i find myself with the tools to handle first... and yes, that syringe like jet is EXACTLY what i had. hey ho... anyway... more problems, as you can see elsewhere in techtalk... j who just broke down.... confused.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Aves, Suck or blow, makes no difference to an axial bladed fan such as these, provided the impellor is mounted the right way round. In the trade they are known, these days, as 'Lewinskys' blush.gif teeth.gif Can't imagine why!!!!!!!!!!! Brent Edited by - brent chiswick on 23 Nov 2001 21:55:45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRIS CLARK Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Naughty................but..........teeth.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 23, 2001 Share Posted November 23, 2001 Brent, Have to disagree. Suck (from behind the rad) is far more effective. Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy oliver Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Rob, Is hammering a flat on the radiator difficult?.I would be afraid of just making a dimple in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy oliver Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Rob, Is it difficult to hammer a flat on the radiator?.I am worried about putting a dimple in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 The mounting bobbins are available from halfords for a few quid . If you have clearance at the bottom why not make some brackets and drop it down a bit ? Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 Arnie, My point was in reply to Matthews statement that 'the blades are designed to suck not blow'. This is not the case as axial bladed fans are equally effective at sucking or blowing against a given pressure drop, provided the impellor is fitted the correct way round. For example:- if an axial fan is fitted at the end of a 3m length of duct pulling through it and discharging to atmosphere or fitted at the beginning of the same piece of duct pulling from atmosphere and then discharging through the duct, the air volume moved will be identical in both cases. Whether it is more effective to blow through or suck through the radiator is entirely dependent upon how that fan is fitted to the radiator. Sorry to be pedantic, but 35 years specialising in the air movement industry tells me this is so. Brent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted November 24, 2001 Share Posted November 24, 2001 I did say I might be talking crap? Aren't the bobbins mini exhaust mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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