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Weber Choke Removal


James Rogers

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Having trouble removing the chokes from the bore. The retaining bolts have been removed and the auxilary venturi came out easily but the main which feels loose will not rotate or move. I would rather not remove the carbs if at all possible. Thanks for the help.

 

James F. Rogers

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Blast them with carb cleaner then run them under the hot tap for as short while, they should them come out, alternatively you can make a small puller from some threaded bar a couple of nuts (ooo-err) and some large penny washers, that will pull them out of the back with no problems. Some times the locking screws are overtightened causing distortion and marking of the surface, this can make them tight.

 

I have gently tapped them out in the past using a small brass drift, but be *careful*.

 

Oily

 

 

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You will also need to remove the idle air bypass screws (assuming that your carbs are post around 1986). These are to be found under small white plastic caps that can be found on the top of the carbs (one for each barrel).

 

These screws have a locnut and are like a smaller diameter, but longer length version of the locking screws that you seem to have already removed from underneath the carbs. They actually poke through a hole in the choke and it cannot be removed until these screws are removed.

 

Any problem, give me a ring on 01992 421111

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Ideally, these screws should be wound in all the way until they just bottom out (don't force) and then the locnut should be nipped up.

 

The main purpose of these screws is to allow you to correct any flow imbalance between the barrels. If you find that one carb is flowing more than the other you can adjust the balance bar screw, but if there is an imbalance within the same carb, you simply open the air bypass balance screw on the lower flowing barrel until it matches the flow of the other.

 

This only allows a limited amount of correction before problems arise, but normally it is enough.

 

As you can see, if your carbs are in good condition the flow shouldn't need adjusting and you can leave the screws fully shut.

 

It is also possible to open all of the screws by the same amount and control the idle speed this way rather than by using the idle speed screw that opens the main butterfly. This is not normally done.

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