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Cam belt cover


Delberts Wallet

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I've currently in the process of changing my cams + cam belt. Firstly in the haynes manual it says to remove the crank pulley to be able to remove the lower cam cover. Is this the case as I can't get my pulley undone!

Secondly which timing marks have to line up with which when it comes to removing the belt and pulleys

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

 

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If its a Zetec I have the cam tool you can borrow and the crank pully bolt is tight about 120nm you turn the engine with the spanner even in gear.

 

Paul tel 01472 590325 at home most of the day wed 21st on nights the rest of the week

 

Edited by - paul d jones on 20 Nov 2001 23:53:54

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The crank needs to locked at 90DBTC mark. Yes the crank pulley needs to be removed. The bolt securing the crank pulley will be difficult to remove, the Elise manual suggests 205Nm torque and the Haynes Manual 163Nm either way you will need a good quality socket and long leverage bar to undue it with the engine locked via the flywheel ring gear or engine in top gear and the hand break on.

 

If you have the Haynes Manual why are you asking these questions, can`t you read ?

 

Edited by - Rob walker on 21 Nov 2001 13:14:06

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Rob, sorry if I'm wasting you time. I only asked these questions because I wanted to get it right and found that the haynes manual wasn't too clear IMO. Thanks for the replies but I still can't get the crank pulley off.

I've tried undoing it with the engine in 5th and my wife with her foor on the brake but there seem to soom give somewhere which is wasting my efforts. I'll give it a go by locking the flywheel.

 

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Gareth,

 

I replaced my cambelt recently, and I'd agree with you that the Haynes manual (Rover 218 in my case) is confusing, especially on the sequence of operations. For example, it said to lock the camshaft sprockets together before undoing the crankshaft pulley. That's OK if you use a flywheel locking tool, but not if you lock the transmission by getting someone to stand on the brakes with the car in top (Haynes' alternative method) as there's so much slack to take up first, the camshaft locking tool just pings off (understandably). I ended up forgetting about locking the camshafts until *after* I'd loosened the crank pulley (which was piece of cake with a big torque wrench, and my wife's foot on the stop pedal).

 

BTW, if you need a camshaft locking tool, I can lend you mine (home-made, but effective).

 

FWIW, the Elise manual describes only the flywheel-locking method, but also implies that the engine is out of the car.

 

JV

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WARNING IT IS NOT GOOD PRACTISE TO FIT THE CAM LOCKING TOOL AND START SWINGING ON THE CRANK PULLEY. YOU WILL AT THE VERY LEAST KNACKER THE BELT OR EVEN BEND THE CAM PULLEYS OR WORSE. The engine should be locked by the flywheel , having first removed the starter motor to access the ring gear. I made up a steel hook out of steel gauge plate and bolted it to the block. Then you need a good quality socket and a long leverage bar, it will help to shock the bar with a hide hammer or block of wood. The bolt is the normal R HAND thread so make sure your going the right way and not tightening the bolt futher. Good luck.
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Hi Gareth.

I know it depends on the degree of corrosion etc around the pulley bolt so spray it well with something like 'plus gas' or a penetrant oil. You haven't got to worry about getting it on the cam belt as that isn't to be reused is it !

 

I did the job myself on the old 1400 by using wedges for a caravan under the back wheels, handbrake fully on, & the car in gear. Having left the oil to soak in for a night I just used a 1/2 in. drive socket and the 90* angle drive (not the ratchet).I then fed a piece of old steel conduit over the end and with care not to slip the socket off the bolt head, eased it all undone. Was easier than I thought, but the conduit was about a 1100mm long !!!

 

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Sorry Chris, I must butt in, the crank pulley is also a ultrasonic damper the pulleys being isolated from the mounting boss by rubber. Plus Gas or any other such solvent could damage the rubber in the damper. QED advised me that they had experience of these breaking up with obvious nasty results.
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Dear All, I'VE DONE IT!

 

Managed it by locking the flywheel with a screwdriver. I gained access through a small hole which is on the opposite site to the starter motor. Basically insert a sturdy screwdriver in so that located between the teeth then undo the bolt. It took a bit of heaving but wasn't that bad (the lever was about 2 foot long).

 

Thanks for all your replies, new cam belt and supersport upgrade here we come!!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

 

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Edited by - Gareth Harrold on 23 Nov 2001 20:28:18

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Pierre,

 

The Supersport upgrade (second hand)is now going well. I've already fitted the ECU (which I had re-programmed to my immobiliser by a rover dealer)and I fitted the cams this afternoon. All I need now is the Cam belt from oily hands which I will fit next week.

 

Gareth

 

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