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*sigh* clutch gone need money....


Weirdy

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OK so apart from the screaching like a loose belt the clutch cable is loose to the bite point is too low and I keep stalling... it was fine until yesterday...

 

So How do I tighten it? and how do I find out what the sreaching noise is? I have to admit it sounds like the water pump 🙆🏻 ☹️

 

I shall attempt to bring her on Thursday to the F&G so if your going you can help me puzzle through it....

 

cheers

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

 

Edited by - weirdy on 15 Jul 2005 16:24:39

 

Edited by - weirdy on 31 Jul 2005 10:59:39

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Adjustment of clutch is by locknuts on cable adjacent to bellhousing. Is this squeal when you put your foot on the clutch. It very much sounds like the clutch release bearing!!

 

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

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OK, Will go and tighten the clutch cable in a short while, the screatching comes from the front of the engine and only happens at low revs and idle... I checked the belts and they are tight enough to TWANG if you know what I mean, hence thinking it was the water pump, I recall the sound is similar to the screatching I had on my old ford, that was a water pump issue. NOW if the thermostate from the RAD worked I would know for sure.....

 

Right of to sort the clutch cable out and see if that stops the screactching....cheers

 

 

 

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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OK, that was EASY 😬 and given how ermmm, technical I am... well thats sorted the stalling issues as the bite point is back at the top, I still can help feeling she's not 100% though as the screatching is lessened but now sounds like grinding ☹️

 

So where is the water pump? is it easy to swop out, and given the over heating of her when I first bought her I am inclined to swop it out anyway, one less thing to worry about....

 

Thank goodness I had something to do this afternoon, at a loose end......

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Dave

 

Yeah that was the plan, alot of tyre kicking and listening.... I can't hear it myself properly as I have to drop the clutch so the CRB rattle doesn't obscure it, I am hoping I am just over sensative to stuff right now and this is one of them things.... 😬

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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So where is the water pump? is it easy to swop out,

 

Look at the top-right piccy here

 

Do you see the cog halfway up on the left of the engine? That's the water-pump - so to change, you'll have to remove the cambelt/covers, change the pump and then replace and retime the cams (for good measure).

 

Not the easiest job in the world, but not engine-out either.

 

Project Scope-Creep is live...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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Myles,

 

EPP, OK that looks like a dismantle the front of the car to get access to the panel covering the belts....

 

Maybe I shall wait for the pump to fail, OH NO if I do that the engine could seize..... *argh* catch 22...

 

Thanks for the picvcie I will have a look tomorrow to see if its doable.... with my tools and level of Skill 😬

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Well after some scratching of heads I have convinced myself the clutch is the issue. The noise goes when I slightly touch the clutch peddle. Its a grinding noise? The rev and speed are not as they should be, the accelaration isn't thier and after many expert ears listened to the engine and said it sounded fine.... I am convinced? maybe, BUt I want to change the water pump anyway as its over heated so many time I reckon its stuffed.

 

So has anyone change the pump before on a 'K'? and if you have do you fancy helping?

 

The clutch though is a different matter, how can I pin this down?

 

has anyone had thier clutch changed and if so how much did it cost?

 

Thought feed back, sarcasm and of course light hearted banter welcome 😬

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Colin

 

Great, so how do I check? How do I get it sorted? I tightened up the cable when it went really baggy.... and I have a high bite point that I like....

 

Do you have pictures, referances etc....

 

Getting excited it could justy be a simple spring, with a take the car apart fix LOL 😬

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Hi Weirdy

 

Oh hell - it sounds like the CRB. Its still worth checking what the state of play with the preload spring is. Take the top off the pedal box and its right there between the clutch pedal and a hole in the lip of the pedal box.

 

John Vine did a really good article about the preload thing in LF about 12 months back (I'll try to turn up my copy). From my notes I have that the spring should put about 4kg force of tension in the cable to attain the right pre-load. (Measured in my case with a spring balance and a bit of string) I shortened mine up quite a bit to get this.

 

 

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the spring seemd fine when I tightened the cable, but the cable was loose and is still a bit not taught if you know what I mean....

 

Well if it is the CRB how else can I check?

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Hi Weirdy

That sounds strange as, if the pedal is not binding on its pivot the only thing that should be balancing the spring force would be the tension in the cable so if the spring is pulling on the pedal OK and the cable is slack it begs the question where the hell is the force going? I think you need to have the top off the pedal box again and give it all a good coat of looking at.

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Colin,

 

OK, MIssus Weirdy and myself are convinced thiers somehting up with the clutch, it makes a grinding noise when depressed and the car seems to be working overtime for it to get anywhere, speeds and revs don't match the norm either.

 

No Batwatch for me then ☹️

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Colin

 

IF Missus Weirdy allowed me to do such work I would be saving money hand over fist, but would also have NO idea what I was doing..... *eek*

 

Well Hyperion have said 320 to take the engine out, plus 150 for the clutch KIT plus VAT!

 

so about 600 notes then, need to get a weeks worth of work in addition to survival work money to pay for it....

 

Does anyone know what the average price for clutch replacement is?

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Hi Weirdy

150 notes sounds quite expensive for the bits assuming all you need is a new release bearing and driven plate - have they given you a breakdown of what the clutch kit consists of?

 

Looking on the web for other clutch kits it sounds like £150 will be for the full monty including the cover assembly which I would expect to be OK unless you have been very naughty with it

 

 

Edited by - Colin Mill on 18 Jul 2005 20:16:01

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Colin

 

Dunno, I will ask them IF and when I have the money to do it, I may ask them for a written Quote and breakdown...

 

Contrary to what I have heard from other members I do trust them not to RIP me off and they have done me some amazing deals when funds have been short....

 

Perhaps when we move I will consider changing garage, so suggestions in the Romford area anyone?

 

Weirdy

 

Its not the winning thats important, its the taking them apart.......

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Howard, why don't you try Steve Parker in Stansted?

 

I've only used him the once and found him very friendly, helpful and knowledgeable not to mention noticeably cheaper than Hyperion. I would be more than happy to use him again.

I know that Mark and Jennie Piper have taken their cars to him too and been happy with the work.

 

Dave

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