SL / Watts Linkage Correction

[Mike C.]

On a previous thread it was suggested that the Superlight now comes with the Watts Linkage as standard. Apparently it doesn't (only the SLR/R500 do). However, it is now a relatively easy retro-fit at c.£350.

 

Mad Manx

[julians]

retrofittable to any de-dion chassis or just very recent ones?

[Rob Walker]

Later chassis after 1997. Easy to identify which type you have just look how the radius arms attach, if they are attached to the chassis with a bolt into a blind threaded bush inside the rear wheel arches you have the old type. If attached with a bolt and nylock nut the bolt passing from inside the cockpit the nylock nut in the wheel arch you have the later chassis, this should also have a threaded bush towards the rear of the wheel arch. It is possible to have the necessary fixings put onto an older chassis but it does necessitate removing the rear boot skin to braze on the rear brackets, costs about £1000 all in.

[EFA]

It came on Counts SL - he did not order it.

 

Fat Arn

The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red>

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green>

 

[Alex Wong1697456877]

Are you sure the boot skin has to be removed to braze the bracket on? I'm sure I know of people who've had it done without going to these lengths.

 

Alex

[Chelspeed]

You call the chassis with the threaded bush the old style but the extremely old chassis (mines 1993) used a bolt and nut but did not come as standard with watts linkage fittings as standard since it wasn't invented then.

 

And yes you can DIY the watts linkage without removing the rear skin, I know 'cos I did it. I mig welded the tubes that I could see, perhaps not as good as removing the skin and doing a full circumference braze but it worked OK for a year so far with no sign of it falling off.

[Rob Walker]

Chel yours is the really really old chassis, I was only going back to 1996 when the threaded bush seems to have been introduced.

 

Removing the boot skin is the only way to do a proper job and not too difficult even for a DIY`er if carefull. Remove the filler cap drill out all relavent pop rivets and make a small cut in the side skins at the highest point of the rear wings the rear skin can then be removed. Braze on your brackets and refit the rear skin, the small cuts can be ali soldered and then touched up.

 

I saw the job being done at Caterham on a customers JPE.