pie_boy69 Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Depending on what type of rad is fitted to your car at pressent depends on what can be done. How well do other cars work with the same rad and engine spec? Can a bigger core be put in? If the tanks are on the top and bottom then a 3 pass system realy does no good and can have an adverse affect, if however the tanks are on the side this can only assist in reducing the coolant temp, Any independent radiator repair shop will be full of good advice phone them up and pop along with the car and have a chat. If you wish to contacct my father his number is 01264 350164 his name is Ray and tell him that i tld you to ring and he will give you a good price. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Thanks for the advice Simon, although what do you mean by:If the tanks are on the top and bottom... Kieth? I've got a few days off now so I'll have a play and see what I can find. Any advice on checking for air locks would be appreciated. I've already had a chat with your Dad Kieth, and I'm to bring the rad over in the next couple of days to have him check it out (probably thurs. morning). Keep it coming... Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Septimus Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I hesitate to pass on my own experience with curing over-heating because I suspect that Caterhams are probably significantly different in the cooling department from my own 68 SIII. In my case, having installed a rebuilt rad with three cores I was still getting temperatures in the 90s in the summer and over 100 on trackdays. My rad has a metal plate soldered to the top header which is roughly the shape of the inside of the nose cone - in places it left a gap of 10mm or so. I fitted a length of rubber boot trim (left over from re-trimming my old Vitesse) over the edge of this plate to completely seal the gap between plate and nose cone. All the air coming into the front of the car had to go through the rad and the difference was astonishing. Whilst on the move at any speed above 30 no matter on track or in the hottest conditions, the temperature does not go over 75. The extra heat coming into the cockpit from the engine bay (no louvres) was quite noticeable. If your rad has any little gaps around it, try this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simos Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Hi Adrian, It was keith that mentioned the tanks and I think he's referring to the section of the radiator where the hoses attach and spread the water out prior to its travelling through the cooling fins to the exit hose. I guess there are two options, top to bottom or left to right which would place the input/exit tanks on the top bottom or left and right respectively [/guess] My boggo rad has hoses (tanks) at the top and bottom, I think it is just single pass, nothing fancy. Cheers, Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Adrian From your favourite "quality replica" site. Recent radiator thread. Cooooooooooool Edited by - Blatman on 2 Jul 2002 18:17:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Stop it Blatters. You'll get me into more hot water than what I'm in already! wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter T Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Adrian, just because you have cooling problems, fit that heater i gave you , that should reduce the temperature some what! PS do not forget to donate monies to nuke the luke! C7 PWT X-Flow all Steel Life begins at 40(00rpm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted July 3, 2002 Share Posted July 3, 2002 Old Septimus' idea is one that I haven't heard used here before. Give it a try, as its a cheap mod to make. I may even give it a try myself this winter. I suspect that if I do it though I will modify the inside of the nose cone rather than the rad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Posted July 3, 2002 Share Posted July 3, 2002 Hi, following on this thread, one mod I have recently seen on a SLR racer, was to infill all the gaps between the rad and nose cone, in this case with expanding foam/mould - not doubt this could be done with the grill removed and formwork/polythene protection over rad and a little patience. On the oil cooler position, I have relocated mine to behind the rad - it is fixed via two small brackets to the four bolts which hold down the steering rack. I have an all steel x-flow ( from Roger ) with a std steel 1990 rad and the temp is a seady 80 once carefully warmed up and 90-95 in traffic ( which is when I get nervous as I have strict instructions not to let the car idle for two long with the race cam...) Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 3, 2002 Share Posted July 3, 2002 PeterT, I have not forgotten the NTL agreement, OK?. Heater instalation will have to wait as to install it I have to move the battery. To put the battery in it's oringinal position, I have to remove the engine. To remove a BDR engine it looks like I have to take the g/box out as well... You know how it goes Haven't played with the rad today yet. Had an appointment with the dentist this morning which has left me feeling like "Marathon Man" all day! sad.gif Will keep you all posted. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Day Posted July 4, 2002 Share Posted July 4, 2002 Adrian You poor sod! Drive carefully??!! Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simos Posted July 4, 2002 Share Posted July 4, 2002 Adrian, I moved my battery from under the carbs to on top of bell housing after toasting two batteries - havn't regretted it yet. Agreed the higher CoG is not in my favour, it is further back though so who knows what the real downside is. Per installation of the battery it will go in without removing the engine after removing the bottom section of the steering column (split just before pedal box) and the aft carb - probably a bit of wiggling on the brake line as well depending on where yours is situated. Done it twice. Older chassis without the "Y" section beneath the battery tray can go in from below after suitable jacking up. I like the idea of fitting the nose cone tightly to the rad - excellent, easy and elegant possible solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 6, 2002 Share Posted July 6, 2002 Mick, Thank you for your sympathy,...Dr. Szell! wink.gif Anyway, took the rad down to Kieth's dad in Andover. Basically the core is not exactly blocked but is getting there. Left it with him to be converted to a 4-core version which is cheaper than a new one, but will be more efficient than anything else on offer brand new from Caterham. The saga continues... Thanks for the battery advice Simon, you've given me some food for thought. Will have to think about mounting positions as I have a plumbed in fire extinguisher wher you have your battery. I definitely still want to install the heater though so I'll just have to jiggle thinks about a bit after Le Sept. All the best Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 14, 2002 Share Posted July 14, 2002 OK, new 4 core rad has been fitted, hoses checked for sludge with none found present, coolant checks OK, carbs adjusted so that they operate fine and the idle is steady at 1K, thermostat checked that it opens on 'Q' (rated at 74'), all the normal checks i.e. colour of spark plugs etc. seem fine. YET it still seems to be running a little hot to me and in comparison to the others on this forum that are running BDR's, i.e. atleast 90', rising to 100' all too easily before the fan kicks in to save the day. Not a disaster but perhaps a little concerting with Le Sept looming at the end of the week. Will get the mixtures and timing checked at some point during the week. One thought; it's currently running on 98 unleaded with lead replacement and octane booster (left over from a trip to the 'Ring last month). Idea's anyone? Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted July 14, 2002 Share Posted July 14, 2002 New sender or gauge? Is the engine really runing hot or are you just going by the gauge? Regards Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 14, 2002 Share Posted July 14, 2002 Nope, gauges are fine. Forgot to say that we checked out all the temps, both oil and water, with a pyrometer and they were found to be accurate. The mystery continues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simos Posted July 15, 2002 Share Posted July 15, 2002 If the fan saves the day; does that not mean the actual physical cooling circuit is fine but the airflow is not good enough. Does the fan make a difference when the car is moving above say 40mph - which I would find very odd. Anything below 40mph probably IS dependant on the fan to keep it to 'fan-on' temp which in my car is 95oC. Do you have some sort of tight mesh radiator screen which is disrupting the airflow. Could you try moving whatever grill there is (and moving the oil cooler if not already moved) to see if the better airflow does the trick Have you tried Old Septimus' idea about fitting the inside of the nosecone flush with the rad to force more of the high energy air through the core rather than bleeding round the tank and into the engine bay ? Per the fuel I ran 97LRP, 95 + LR/OB and 97SUL+LR variously depending on where I was and what was sold in the forecourt shop and it never made a smegs worth of difference to the temp that I ever noticed. Cheers, Simon (BDR on 45's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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