Jam Mad Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 well, after limping home yesterday with a leaking radiator ( only one of three problems to hit this weekend ), i now need it fixed. it's leaking from a corner that already has a repair to it from before i owned the car, but the radiator otherwise looks to be in excellent condition. the long hours that i work mean that taking it to a garage is not easy... so my thoughts turn to these roving mechanics in vans... anyone have any experience of them ? good ? bad ? in south london ? a mate suggested checking autosport for radiator repair people.. but there don't seem to be any. just a few ads for sexy ally radiators.. mmmmmm.... laters, j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 James, The old radiator I had with the xflow was repaired a couple of times, using a company in Crawley (Southern Radiators). Not cheap, but they did a good job, but most rad repairs involve completely dismantling the rad and rebuilding. Apparently patching a leak is usually not much good for any length of time. I have their phone number at home if you want to give them a ring, but you may find it more economical in the long run to fit a new rad. Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 12, 2001 Author Share Posted November 12, 2001 hi there dave.... aahhh... well, that sets me thinking of a new rad then, since it already had had one repair to it.... what sort of money was your repair, and how much roughly is a new radiator ? i'd like to sort it out this weekend, so would it be something that i would have to order from somewhere ? j ps best wishes to the fambly... any plans to convert little m's bunk into a 7 bed, as featured in the last lf ?? wink.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 James, I think the last repair/rebuild was about £80ish (that was 3 years ago). When I installed the Zetec I fitted the Caterham aluminium large capacity rad, which was about £170ish. I think Caterham do a cheaper unit - give them a ring. Also worth trying Redline. No M's bed won't get the 7 treatment as it is approx 6ft high, with loads of room underneath it for his collection of "important stuff" (and him) Dave H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 James, Just look i yellow pages. I used a firm called Arrow Rads and they recored my rad for 90 quid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 I am told that Caterham no longer supply the copper cored rads. They only supply Ali standard capacity and the higher capacity triple pass rad. Could be cheaper to have your own re-cored. Edited by - Rob walker on 12 Nov 2001 21:14:28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 Or your could buy my old one - It doesn't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted November 12, 2001 Share Posted November 12, 2001 I'm sure there are a few steel rads kicking around used. Place a wanted ad! Fat Arn The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red> See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 I offered him mine at 4pm yesterday! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 13, 2001 Author Share Posted November 13, 2001 cheers folks.. matthew aves offered me his yesterday, so i'm going to plump for the second hand option. c. £150 for a new one. c. £ 90 for a fixed one. sub £50 for a second hand one. seems a no-brainer to me. why would anyone have one fixed ? i guess it would be worth it on higher end ally ones... j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pie_boy69 Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 My family has been in the radiator business for over 20 years. A good local radiator repair shop (yellow pages) should be able to fix most leaks if not then a recore should not cost much Smae core as MK1/2 escort. The replacement standard size ali rad from caterham WON'T be as efficient as that same size copper and brass one. The first ali rads broght down the cooling of the vehicle because of there larger size and triple pass system ( this can be done very cheaply to a standard copper and brass one during a recore). But any weight saving is put up against the larger capacity of the early ali rads due to there larger capacity meaning more fluid and sofore weight. To get a idea of costs my fathers business is Andover Radiators Hampshire 01264 350164 he will give all kinds of helpfull advice and also does oil coolers and hoses. But any good independent repairer will offer the same service Last note if you go to Serkes it must be a minimum of a 2 row rad. Keith Pickering now superlight lesssad.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam Mad Posted November 13, 2001 Author Share Posted November 13, 2001 wow.. cheers pb... what's the story with you ? i remember the sale of your lurvely sl... anything else on the way ? sorry.. perhaps i missed something... what is 'serkes' ? your dad's co ? j Edited by - jam mad on 13 Nov 2001 16:58:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russb Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 pieboy I am puzzled by your comments that an ali rad will not be as efficient as a steel/copper rad, my westf1eld (2ltr VX) used the old steel/copper 4 core rad that originally cooled my x-flow, I recently changed to a much smaller and lighter VW rad, this cools the engine so effectively that in the recent cold weather I have to blank part of it off Russ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Morris Posted November 13, 2001 Share Posted November 13, 2001 Arnie - "Steel Rads"? Is this a secret ploy to weigh down all those people that don't run VX's? They don't know what they are missing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pie_boy69 Posted November 14, 2001 Share Posted November 14, 2001 Jam mad as for cars no idea I hope an ex VX race car next year, Serkes (not sure if this is spelt right) are a nationwide chain, rernowned through the independent trade as selling inferior replacement rads ie 1 row escort rads instead of 2 row etc, all part off being able to under cut, and you have little or no comeback on them. if you damage your car through over heating because the rad is only just up to the job and there is no leway for mid summer traffic jams. They say You should have stopped if the temp goes to high. Russ the comparison I was making was between the early caterham ali rads and the ali copy of the standard rad that they do, The construction of your VW rad is alot more efficient than the standard type this is where you can make wheight saving but getting a copy of your original rad (in copper brass) made in ali it will not be as efficient at cooling. The VW rad has been popular for a few years due to its simple design and easy mount. Keith Pickering now superlight lesssad.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashaughnessy Posted November 15, 2001 Share Posted November 15, 2001 I think it's spelt Serck Marston. I pass one of their branches on the train to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Thought I'd resurrect this thread instaed of starting a new one on the same subject; i.e. cooling. I recently purchased a standard BDR engined car about a month ago. On fast road work I noticed that the temp was getting towards 100' from the normal 90. Put it down to an exuberant right foot on that occasion. Next, I was on a track day last week so it was a chance to give the cooling system a proper work out. I imposed a (strictly aheared to) 6k rev limit on myself and the car. Mmmm! Temperature was constantly creeping up to the 100' mark again where upon the fan automatically kicked in. Naturally I backed off, let it cooled down to 90 and experimented with various levels of 'enthusiam'. It always creeped back up to 100'. Back in the paddock after letting the motor cool for a while, checked the water level and that was fine. From the colour of the coolant it was seemed safe to assume that the correct water/coolant mixture had been used. Started it up again and borrowed a pyrometer(?) to crosscheck the sender temperature against the reading on the guage. The guage was deemed accurate and true as the readings all mirrored each other. It's worth mentioning that an oil cooler is also fitted, run in conjunction with a Mocal thermostat. The temperature it was running was pretty much 80' all the time. Can I also add that I religiously warm things up carefully as per instructions from the previous owner. Back to the 'Ring. The next step was to remove the thermostat as advice said that this if this was set too high, say 88-90 then it probably wasn't helping matters much. A few puzzled looks on faces were evident when it was found to be a 74' one! Removed that and ran without. Still getting 100'. Gritted my teeth and kept running hard to see what the temperature would naturally climb too. Not much higher actually, perhaps 103'ish before the fan kicked in. So things weren't totally out of control then! Not a situation I want to continue with obviously, especially since I'm heading off on Le Sept in a few weeks I need to resolve this issue quickly. From the advice I've received and read so far it seems I have the following options: 1. Fit a Aluminium rad 2. Have my current rad converted to a triple bypass one by Keith Pickering's Dad in Andover. 3. Fit a header tank as recomended by Roger King on another thread. 4. Fit a VW rad (whatever type this is?) 5. move the oil rad to behind the water rad. Advice please? Adrian Elkin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stijn LUYCK 1 Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Adrian, shouldn't your fan kick in at a lower temperature? Not that it makes a big difference while driving ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I had a simiar problem last year with the water temperature at c.100 deg C (with the fan running) on trackdays - solved by replacing the single core copper rad with a big aluminium one. The temperature now is 80deg C regardless of how hard you drive. Swapping just the thermostat had made little difference. Regards Allen P.S. You'll need to sort something out as last year on Le Sept it was rather sunny and the average temperature seemed to be around 35deg C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Elkin Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Stijn, In my other 'Quality Replica', the standard Ford switch cut in around the 100' mark as well so it was no surprise. Perhaps things are different on your car. Err, K series isn't it? Will we see you on Le Sept? Allen, Which make of ally rad have you fitted; the current Caterham one or the Brise (I think that's the name of the company) one? They apparently used to be Caterham's supplier. Just off to ring Andover Radiators in Hampshire. Keep the advice coming! thumbsup.gif Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Payne Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 My radiator is old'ish Pace one, the Caterham race radiator I believe - possibly too big for my 1400 but one less thing to worry about. Regards Allen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DohNut Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I am not familiar with the ins and outs of the this engine but, if your water pump was not working efficiently..... The water would be moving slowly around the engine and would absorb more heat before exiting. If the thermostat is positioned as the water comes out of the engine it will register a higer temperature. But the water would spend longer in the radiator cooling more so the temperature would stabalise. Just a thought Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashaughnessy Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Disclaimer - I don't know anything about BDRs, I have a crossflow. The sealed header system doesn't improve your cooling, it helps prevent water loss. If you're system is full of water and you have no air locks, I wouldn't have thought the sealed system would make any difference to the temperature if the current system is working correctly. Second, would you really expect the fan to make much of a difference when running on track? Surely there should be enough air-flow due to the speed of the car. Third, if the oil cooler is mounted in front of the water radiator this can have a significant effect on the efficiency of the water radiator. Fourth, what about other potential causes of overheating? E.g. your fuelling is out leading to hot burning, or your water pump is failing, or your water passages are blocked with rust/crap. Do you have the correct radiator cap, of the correct pressure rating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simos Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 I have a BDR with the bog-standard 1990 cast iron rad, original water pump and an oil cooler in front of the rad. This all works just fine with temp steady at 78oC rising to 95 in traffic where the fan cuts in and keeps it steady. So I would expect that your setup should work and we need to work out which bit is moving your equilibrium above what it should be. I do have the header tank per Rogers advice although this is to protect from air locks at track days rather than improve efficiency of the cooling in normal operation. The theory is explained by Roger elsewhere, and for my money is a cheap insurance against a relatively common engine toasting problem. Roger does recommend moving the oil cooler behind the rad if you're close on cooling. I've been meaning to do it but since I've never noticed a cooling problem have not got around to it. On my BDR the temp sender is in the side of the block immediately above the headers, I did wrap some reflective asbstos around it a) to reduce erroneous temps creeping in (though I've noticed no difference) and b) to stop the heat from the headers melting the insulation on the wire. Have you jacked up the front and checked for air locks in the rad as this would reduce cooling overall. It might be interesting to see if there's any crappy sludge in the bottom hose indicating blocked water ways. It might be interesting to dump all the coolant and replace with latest and greatest coolant (there was a thread maybe a month ago on this) which includes 'water wetter' properties to transfer heat form the cylinder walls better. These are some relatively cheap thoughts before you get onto new alu rads etc. Cheers, Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pie_boy69 Posted July 2, 2002 Share Posted July 2, 2002 Depending on what type of rad is fitted to your car at pressent depends on what can be done. How well do other cars work with the same rad and engine spec? Can a bigger core be put in? If the tanks are on the top and bottom then a 3 pass system realy does no good and can have an adverse affect, if however the tanks are on the side this can only assist in reducing the coolant temp, Any independent radiator repair shop will be full of good advice phone them up and pop along with the car and have a chat. If you wish to contacct my father his number is 01264 350164 his name is Ray and tell him that i tld you to ring and he will give you a good price. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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