Colin Mill Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Had a thought about a slight adjustment to the dash wiring. First replace the dipswitch with an (on)- off - on switch (with the momentary action in the up direction). Link Blue to Blue/Red to omit the dip beam from the switch and wire the new switch so that both the momentary and latch positions bring the main beam on (rather like the wiring of the current headlamp flash switch). This means that this one switch doubles as the headlamp flasher switch with an action similar to the stalk action of 'normal' cars: Push switch down puts mains on. Pushing the switch up dips the lights and if pushed all the way up flashes the lights and going to dip on release. This arrangement leaves the dip beams on when you switch to main - just like you get now if you hold the headlamp flasher switch on - something which I find good when cresting hills where the main beams seem best suited to aviation. Since the flasher switch is now vacant I think I would wire it across the wiper switch to give a flick-wipe. Does anyone know where I can get an (on)- off - on toggle switch to match the switches currently on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilC Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Mght be talking out of my 🙆🏻, but I think that the wiring will only be suitable for short bursts of both beams at the same time, with potential for too much heat build up and ultimately smoke & flames. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 The wiring to the lights will stand it - it already does. The actual wiring to the switch/relay might not as it is now supplying more than double (assuming 55/60 bulbs) the current. However, the first place I would expect failure is the connector block to the bulb - I had exactly this on my old Locust - the blocks melted! However, I think that unless your main beams are a separate lamp to the dip beams, construction and use and MOT regs require the dip to go out as you go to main. But I too find the same problem - I think it has a lot to do with being so low reative the headlights compared to a more normal car. I'm considering a separate set of lights either in the grille or where the indicators are now. Just got to figure out what to do with the indicators . . Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Neil, I did the same as Colin, but in a reverse way, I have it so the FLASH is downward, and when released it's dipped, then upwards for full beam. It acts exactly the same as the original two switches, but is combined into one. I put a horn push where the flash switch was. Colin, I think you'll find my way is a bit easier to use, as the switch is parked in the middle and you press down for flash, and up for main, with dipped in the middle parked position. Feels more normal to press down for flash to me. The switch is a Lucas 35940A normally used for wash wipe. 10AMPS MAX. Cost from Holden Vintage & Classic £31.04 +vat!!!! 01 885 488 488 for catalogue, was £4, may have gone up. PS DO NOT hold the wire in your hand to see if it gets hot, I've seen wires melt, it happens faster than you think! Cheers J&J Edited by - johnjulie on 24 Jun 2005 22:30:20 Edited by - johnjulie on 24 Jun 2005 22:32:35 Edited by - johnjulie on 24 Jun 2005 22:33:56 Edited by - johnjulie on 24 Jun 2005 22:36:36 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 Hi Neil Well, its a consideration. The runs that will be carrying the extra current are the earth wires at the lamp units that could be beefed up easily up if needs be, and the feed from the light relay to the dip switch that would be a little harder to replace. From Hella's info on H4 bulbs the combined load for all four fillaments will be 17.4amps - I need to find out the weight of the cable currently used (alternatively I can just hold the wire in my hand and hold the flash switch down and see if I get burnt 😬) . If one was worried about the total current it would still be possible to reconfigure the switches and use a relay to do the main/dip changeover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted June 24, 2005 Author Share Posted June 24, 2005 Hi J&J Yes, it does sound more logical your way around. I take it you had no trouble with the wiring getting too hot. Also, I guess you found a matching switch (I keep finding things that seem to be ex-Lancaster bomber jobs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JampJ Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Colin, I've just put more info on my reply. Cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted June 25, 2005 Author Share Posted June 25, 2005 John - Many thanks. I found their website:- http://www.holden.co.uk/ looks very useful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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