Mike Bees Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Anyone else had this problem? What was different about factory cars shipped with 8.5" MB rear rims & ACB10s to prevent this problem (compared to my '97 Superlight)? I guess I'll have to get some wheel spacers, but I'm sure these aren't standard fitment. Also, while we're on MB rims, does everyone have a special super-thin socket to do the wheelnuts or do you all accept that the paint just falls off the centres as soon as you touch it? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 My 9" rears fit the radius arm ok. The old style De dion does need grinding down a bit to clear. The high mounted ARB is a complete no-no. I popped a standard socket in my lathe and turned it down to fit without scuffing. You don't need much torque on that socket relatviely speaking. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Edited by - stevefoster on 16 Jun 2005 08:17:24 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted June 15, 2005 Author Share Posted June 15, 2005 Strange. I've got stock 8.5" rims with 8" ACB10s and they're slightly rubbing the radius arms both sides (only when cornering I think). I could get some 3mm wheel spacers, but then there's nothing for the wheel to locate on (other than the studs) which is a bit horrible. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike this was a known problem on the race SLR's which is why the factory extended the length of the dedion tube for 2003 (I think), this added 10mm to the rear track overall As far as the wheelnuts I got fedup with changing wheel nuts between different wheel types and probably more specifically a Snap- on thinwall socket still fouled the wheel paint so sold the wheels and went for Compomotives Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike does your car have the radius arms that have a section pressed inwards that sits beside the tyres and rim so that it gives another 1/4 inch of clearance ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted June 15, 2005 Author Share Posted June 15, 2005 Nope... Maybe I should bash 'em wiv an 'ammer... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 They might give you a bit more clearance, but I guess it depends if they are available for your Chassis. It might be worth giving Dartford a ring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 The stainless sleeve nuts that CC supply as a replacement for the (badly) chromed nuts have better clearance..as they don't have the extra thickness of chrome which someone way back in the sands of time didn't include in his calcs. Also the washers they supply with them are thicker and lift the nut higher from the wheel face. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike I've fitted the updated radius arms to my 1992 dedion chassis so I think they would probably work ok for you, they weren't that expensive if I remeber correctly (ok we're talking relative to Caterham pricing here). Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted June 16, 2005 Author Share Posted June 16, 2005 Thanks chaps. I don't really want to spend any more £££ at the moment, so maybe some 3mm spacers will have to do for the time being (they're cheap). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 as said abovbe there is a modded radius arm . The socket to go for is the Halfords "professional" 19mm deep 3/4 drive socket . The walls of the socket are thin enough to pass the mag casting C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TorAtle Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Is the "locating ring" on the hub useful only when putting on the wheel or does it actually do something when everything is tightened up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoLimits Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 As Dave said above. Squished radius arms and the Half'ds Pro socket. MY 51VEN Give it some Welly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Biddle Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Mike, you can flatten the radius arms a little, thats what I did when I had the same problem several years ago. It didn't cause any problems, but do it carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted June 16, 2005 Author Share Posted June 16, 2005 Tor - I would have thought that the ring on the hub is the primary location for the wheel, to ensure that it's centred correctly. Which is why I'm a bit confused about these 3mm spacers... A 2mm spacer between the ear and the DD tube would solve my problem - especially if it were ground to convert the 1.5deg. ear to 0.5deg! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Some have used shims to change the angle of the ear, Camber, toe etc. If this does not spread the load evenly across the ear surface the load is too concentrated around the bolt holes and a curb hit may cause them to fail. This has happened... I suppose a properly machined spacer and longer bolts would be ok though. It could replace the thin ali plate already there to act a dirt seal to the tube. Much easier to space the wheels by 3mm or buy the bigger tube if that is not an option. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A10ROX Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 My R400 with MB wheels do rub the radius arm Plenty of clearance when stationary so the tyre must move considerable to allow for this rubbing However it saves polishing it Rear set up for Avon slick 1.5 ears? It's going to Caterham on Saturday "so I'll ask the question" A10ROX:OK, its an R500 without the magnesium bits sump etc and only 205bhp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Rear set up for Avon slicks is more like 0.25 deg neg camber. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartmoor7 Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 >>I would have thought that the ring on the hub is the primary location for >>the wheel, to ensure that it's centred correctly. Which is why I'm a bit >>confused about these 3mm spacers... On my *completely standard* 1994 1400SS, the front and rear hub spigots are different sizes so I can't get a set of wheels that would locate on these anyway. The 16" wheels that came with the car did not locate on them front or rear. I am very careful when fitting wheels to allow the nuts to centre the wheels as I slowly tighten each nut a little at a time. Obviously this is not an ideal situation but that's Caterham for you, I've never had any other car where all the spigots were not the same size. (A friend's 1700 Live Axle does have same size spigots fr/rr) Jerry Parker L7 SVN 1.4 Supersport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Radius arms should have dents, as described by others... 210 bhp Quaife sequential roadgoing racer - Click here for a ready to go bargain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now