Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 21, 2005 Support Team Share Posted May 21, 2005 Since fitting, my dry sump has leaked - it started as a slight weep but has got worse. As I had followed the instructions and used silicone sealant, and have subsequently read about how poor it is, I decided to take the sump off, clean off all the sealant and use a proper gasket sealant - in this case blue hylomar. Having now reassembled everything, the situation is much improved - no leaks around the edge of the sump - but I still have a problem. To me it looks like the sump is not the right shape (if viewed from above) to match the engine block. Either side of the bellhousing end of the sump there is a triangular flat face that should match with the block - on the passenger side it matches but on the drivers side there is no block to match. I can actually stick my finger into the sump pan and touch the flywheel - I think there is therefore a path from the sump to the open air and this is where the oil is still leaking from. Is it possible that I have an odd design of block or maybe there is a difference between EU2 (mine) and EU3? Are there 2 designs of sump pan? I will speak to Caterham on Monday but if anyone has any ideas then please let me know. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Shaun sump and block sound normal!, do you want to bring it over here tomorrow am and we'll have a look?, Silicone is OK but the problem is if any excess gets into the small oilways where they could become blocked, Hylomar does seal well but has a nastyhabit of staying as goo and often any excess collects in the filters of the scavenge pump pickups Where is the oil coming from? if it's in the bellhousing I might suspect the rear crank seal (mine has just been repaced twice albeit on a VX!) As said happy to have a look tomorrow morning if you like Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 21, 2005 Author Support Team Share Posted May 21, 2005 Thanks Mark - what sort of time? I can give you a call in the morning. If it is the crank seal is it an engine out job? Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Walker Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 I had leaks from the what seemed like the rear joint between the dry sump pan and the block. I had the pan off three times , I then suspected the crank rear oil seal. turned out to be a porous drysump bell tank leaking from one of the bored holes that connect the belltank to the gear box. I had the tank ultrasealed which cured the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Silicon is not recomended, in fact the stuff should not be used near a engine, Loctite 574 should be used for sumps, it does not dry and block up the oilways Martin MW 51 CAT Superlight No.171 now know as:Superlight DVA 207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted May 22, 2005 Share Posted May 22, 2005 Shaun 11am would be good fit's in between shoppping and the GP Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Silicon sealant is a NO NO. as Martin points out. I also had an issue getting an oil tight seal even using Loctitie 574. I've now gone back to using a cut down wet sump gasket and the problem has gone. Phil S7SVN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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