K series Dry Sump woes

[Shaun_E]

Since fitting, my dry sump has leaked - it started as a slight weep but has got worse. As I had followed the instructions and used silicone sealant, and have subsequently read about how poor it is, I decided to take the sump off, clean off all the sealant and use a proper gasket sealant - in this case blue hylomar.

Having now reassembled everything, the situation is much improved - no leaks around the edge of the sump - but I still have a problem. To me it looks like the sump is not the right shape (if viewed from above) to match the engine block.

Either side of the bellhousing end of the sump there is a triangular flat face that should match with the block - on the passenger side it matches but on the drivers side there is no block to match. I can actually stick my finger into the sump pan and touch the flywheel - I think there is therefore a path from the sump to the open air and this is where the oil is still leaking from.

Is it possible that I have an odd design of block or maybe there is a difference between EU2 (mine) and EU3? Are there 2 designs of sump pan?

I will speak to Caterham on Monday but if anyone has any ideas then please let me know.

 

Yellow SL #32

[F355GTS]

Shaun

 

sump and block sound normal!, do you want to bring it over here tomorrow am and we'll have a look?, Silicone is OK but the problem is if any excess gets into the small oilways where they could become blocked, Hylomar does seal well but has a nastyhabit of staying as goo and often any excess collects in the filters of the scavenge pump pickups

 

Where is the oil coming from? if it's in the bellhousing I might suspect the rear crank seal (mine has just been repaced twice albeit on a VX!)

 

As said happy to have a look tomorrow morning if you like

 

 

 

Mark

[Shaun_E]

Thanks Mark - what sort of time? I can give you a call in the morning.

If it is the crank seal is it an engine out job?

 

Yellow SL #32

[Rob Walker]

I had leaks from the what seemed like the rear joint between the dry sump pan and the block. I had the pan off three times , I then suspected the crank rear oil seal. turned out to be a porous drysump bell tank leaking from one of the bored holes that connect the belltank to the gear box. I had the tank ultrasealed which cured the problem.

[martinwhitcher]

Silicon is not recomended, in fact the stuff should not be used near a engine, Loctite 574 should be used for sumps, it does not dry and block up the oilways

 

Martin

 

MW 51 CAT

Superlight No.171

now know as:Superlight DVA 207

[F355GTS]

Shaun

 

11am would be good fit's in between shoppping and the GP

 

Mark

[prs]

Silicon sealant is a NO NO. as Martin points out. I also had an issue getting an oil tight seal even using Loctitie 574. I've now gone back to using a cut down wet sump gasket and the problem has gone.

 

Phil S7SVN