I reply to every thread Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Best thread in ages though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Newman Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 i guess they dont teach you spelling at uni either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powderpuff Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 We'll make allowances for the spelling.......being as Jack speaks with a french accent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Perry Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 jack, If when you press the pedal it doesn't feel firm but is a little spongy, then that will be unrelated to the copper grease problem. It means you need to bleed the brakes again to release more air bubbles. As Caterham brakes can be a bit difficult to get a firm pedal, some of us re-bleed them a couple of weeks and a few hundred miles later to get the last of the air out. This seems to work quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Jack - instructions on how to do it properly are in the maintenance section on my site. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger7 Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Jack, Sanding the pads sounds like a bad idea to me. How do you get any residual abrasive off the pad surface? You'll need to because any abrasive left on the pad surface will score the discs themselves. And how much do you fancy replacing the discs? Pads are cheap. Throw the copper-eased pads away, buy a new set and get some expert help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 It may stop the brakes squealing but it will certainly cause you to utter a much louder scream if you had tried to use the car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😬 😬 😬 Dont feel too bad. If you do a search there was a post a couple of months ago about things that had gone wrong in your garage including a few of my past exploits 😳 Grant Black and stone chip. here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 The copper grease stops the vibration as the pad moves under braking rubbing against the piston, this vibration causes the squealing noise and more unwanted heat. Chuck the pads, clean the discs and start again. Everything else you have done is correct. X/FLOW 1700 DD 1990 ROAD USE ONLY..SO FAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wonkey eyed barmaid Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 roger7, i dont see how sanding the pads to ensure thier surface is clean is going to do them any harm. i regularly give mine a rub with sandpaper when servicing the car. pads are naturally abrasive anyway - its what they are there for after all. ive never had any problems with discs as a result Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony C Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 The pads are porous - the effect of rubbing the surface of oil/grease contaminated pads with sandpaper will be the square root of very little IMHO. Likewise the disks may be difficult to clean. I'm all for encouraging people to undertake their own maintenance, BUT with the proviso that they should know when they are out of their depth and ask for advice - BEFORE doing something BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Bishop Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I know we've all had a bit of fun with this at Jack's expense, but you've got to be a bit thick skinned to come on here sometimes! The truth is that it's now time for me to hold my hands up. Collecting my new (and second) car from post build check at CC a couple of weeks ago I was mortified when Simon told be I had the lock nuts on the front brake pipes on wrong! Just carelessness and the assumption that as I'd done it before I didn't have to check the book! As it happens the brakes on the car are squealing like good 'uns and I have been contemplating the copper grease routine myself. Trouble is, I get no sense of direction with my hearing, relying as I do on hearing aids. I don't know which corner/end is squealing. Is it a good bet that it is more likely to be the rear, as (1) I assembled these calipers myself and I know for sure there was no grease behind the pads even though it did occur to me to do it - and I didn't!, and (2) the fronts apparently have anti squeal shims behind them as standard anyway and could well have been greased on assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 While we're talking about pad contamination... ...tell me about getting brake-fluid on pads... Fairly-sure I got a few drops on mine whilst fitting new 4-pots yesterday. Wasn't intentional though Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul jacobs Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Hi Jaques, As they say live and learn, and like you, I try never to be afraid to ask. The good natured stick you've taken on here, may very well have stopped at least one other person doing the same thing, and NOT asking before they drive their car. I agree that the best plan is to throw the pads away, but as far as the discs are concerned, they should clean up fine, as they are not absorbant. I would suggest either a brake cleaner, or some methylated spirits, [not made from an oil based product] then use some very fine wet and dry abrasive paper, say a 1200 grade from most car and painting shops, to give a mat surface over the disc, with or without water, bear in mind that if you use water, be sure to dry them thoroughly, otherwise you'll very quickly get a thin residue of rust. As far as the "Copperslip" is concerned all that is needed is the slightest smear on the back side, which touches the caliper. Too much and it will melt and get onto the disc. It's used more for its "shock absorbing" quality than its slipperyness. Best of luck. Paul J. Hard work never killed anyone ........ but why take the chance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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