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brake question


jackb_ms

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Hi

 

I just finished (last night) to change the brake fluid as well as the front pad.

Being the first time I've done it I'm a bit worried it might not have been 100% successful.

When I changed the pad, I put a layer of copper grease on the face, which rubs against the disk, which I believe is the correct way of doing it.

While I was changing the fluid, I made sure it was a clear continuous stream of fluid coming out of the bleed screw.

The only time I had air bubbles is when I was doing the near side, I purge this part of the circuit and finally had no more bubbles.

Should I have gone back and redo the two back callipers I did previously?

 

How long does it takes for new pads to bed in? A few mile or a few hundreds?

Any tip of what to look for if they are going to fail?

 

Thank for your help

 

An anxious Jack and Anne *confused*

 

Emily, The Very Yellow 21

 

Edited by - jackb_ms on 18 May 2005 08:41:58

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Did you put the Copper Grease on the pad to disc contact area ? Or am I reading that wrong.

 

I've put copper grease on the piston to pad side before but never on the pad to disc side, I would have thought that would be very wrong 😳

 

Jon

 

Ex Beaulieu no31/ex Supersport R and now taking a break in a 111R Elise

 

My Caterham Pics

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I shall assume that you put the copper-grease on the back of the pad - where the piston touches it. The alternative defies belief... *eek*

 

I hate bleeding brakes (and I'm hoping that the new brake-hoses arrived today, so I'll be doing it starting with a drained system tonight. What fun...) and often seem to need to redo calipers. I've changed to flexi rear hoses to make this easier.

 

New pads can take loadsa miles to bed in - it helps if you don't put grease on the friction-surfaces though *wink*

 

My latest pads suggested three gentle stops from 30-0mph followed by three more from 70-30 and then letting the brakes cool completely (if possible) for starters.

 

Project Scope-Creep is live...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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If this isn't a wind up I suggest getting someone who knows what they are doing to come to your house (don't drive the car) and sort things out. I don't want to cause offence but if your mechanical expertise is low you really should get your work on brakes checked out by an expert, who will maybe give you some tuition for next time. Maybe your local AO can put yopu in touch with another owner locally who will help?

 

If you don't follow that route then at least throw away the pads and clean the discs with lots of brake cleaner (from your local motor factor) - very throroughly. (WD40 is not suitable)

 

Jonathan

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This setup could virtually elliminte pad wear 😬 Come to think of it, it may practically eliminate the brakes also *eek*

As said, well done for having a go - we've all made monumental cock-ups at one stage or another *cool*

 

Stu.

 

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Just called James Withing, and he saved the day 😬 *thumbup*

 

Has I haven't used the car, I just need to clean everything and sand paper the pad.

 

Thanks for the warning *thumbup*

 

I have learned a lot today!

 

Jack

 

Emily, The Very Yellow 21

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oh dear.

😳

 

you need some strong solvents or something to clean the discs and pads. then sandpaper the pads before refitting. the copper grease stops everything drying up so that the pads etc slide nice and easily against the contact patches where they touch the calipers. NOTHING but clean brake pad should ever touch the disc face.

 

be VERY tentative the first time you take the car on the road.

good luck. you need it.

*idea*

 

 

 

 

Edited by - granteuk on 17 May 2005 17:44:10

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