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Best expensive tool


ashaughnessy

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If you had two or three hundred pounds to spend and wanted to buy an expensive tool for your garage to assist in general seven fettling, what would you buy (assuming you didn't already have it)?

I'm thinking of getting a drill press. I reckon it will come in handy in a number of ways, especially when I learn all the things you can do with it other than drilling holes.

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Speaking as someone well versed in spending money on tools I think I'm qualified to answer this one.

 

I'd look at maybe an air compressor with some air tools to go with it for £300.

 

Great fun to play with and you get authentic formula one pit stop noises with air ratchets [;-)]

 

 

 

 

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Counts air rivet gun is the dogs gonads. By far his most impressive tool, as even the Countess will agree!!!

 

Your air ratchet is also especially good, particularly the "drive a harness bolt through tyhe sideskin" function!!!

 

If you paid me for the Tannoys I'd be nice to you......

 

Fat Arn

The NOW PROVEN R500 Eaterid=red>

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website hereid=green>

 

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An engine hoist. I was dubious about whether I'd need one with a titchy lickle Blackbird engine but I've used it loads - taking the engine out at the slightest possible chance, but it's also handy for lifting the whole car up to get it on high trestles. It's also handy for tea breaks in the garage - I loop both ends of one of the straps around the chain and sit on it like a swing. Very comfy :-)

 

Dan

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In my haste to mention the great noises I did forget the rivet gun which I think Arnie would pay to use it's so satisfying. I also have painted the summerhouse using the spray gun, much easier.

 

The ratchet btw was not the culprit that sent the harness bolt into the ally panel, that was a good old fashioned hand job.

 

Have to also agree that owning a hoist is useful as it can be lent out for a £10 donation either to your own pocket or NTL if you prefer.

 

Still need a firm price for the Tannoys Arnie, I think we were at £40 ?

 

 

 

 

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An compressor has to be the best toy / tool. You will never look at a piece of tubing without thinking of giant airguns.....!

 

It makes lots of noise and I've used mine so much I don't know how I managed before - it's very good at sweeping dust out of the garage and inflates tyres in no time.

 

Piers

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I already have a compressor but the two other things that have made my life easier still are;

1/ A Snap-on 1/2" Battery powered wheel gun. Its not a modified drill but the real thing with a slip clutch etc. I believe they now do either a 14 or 18v version. Very useful.

2/ A decent heater for the garage. I feel much more inspired to work if I am warm in the winter.

 

Other cheaper nice to have things:

half a dozen 6 foot strip lamps in the garage so you get no shadows when working in the engine bay.

A good hand-lamp for those out of the way places.

A good low slung jack that lifts high, I mean more than 18 inches. A spare ordinary jack is also useful, for gearbox lowering.

A softer floor in the garage. Warmer and easier in kneel on.

A large low tray to drain oil into. What some people use is a concrete mixing pad from a DIY warehouse.

A pukka tire pressure guage.

A bucket with a lid to store coolant or Oil in.

I also have a basic wheel balancer (The traditional 1950's non- powered type) that I find very useful as well.

A quality timing light is always useful even on mapped engines.

I have ignored all the basic tools as they tend to be self- evident.

 

 

Edited by - Graham Perry on 1 Nov 2001 07:25:10

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FACOM torque wrenches pricez are very close to your budget! I like FACOM but cannot afford their torque wrench. Question, did somebody experience the CLARKE torque wrenches at 1/10th of the FACOM price? Reasonable accuracy?

Or is it absolutely necessary to invest in a FACOM torque wrench, or equivalent, if I want to work on the engine?

Cheers,

 

Pierre

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Pierre,

The Clarke torque wrenches and similar I have found to be fine for working on the seven and generally accurate when compared to more expensive brands - the only thing I am unhappy about is their accuracy at relatively low torque settings i.e. 20 pounds/ft and below - here I would think you would need an additional wrench covering the range of say 5-30 pounds/ft if you were encountering a lot of engine component settings within that range. I am sure Oily or someone will be able to give a definitive statement on this.

Paul

 

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Torque Wrenches!

 

Learnt my lesson when I built a Mini engine a few years ago and used a DRAPER wrench.

Everything went very smoothly during the build and when complete the engine was lowered into the car with no real problems.

It even started first turn of the key!

...then we saw the flames all around the head!!!

Switched off and checked the head torque, all seemed OK

Then checked with a friends Snapon torque wrench and found it was WAY OUT .

Ended up having to remove the engine and re torque every bolt.

 

Morals of the story

 

1, When it comes to tools, you get what you pay for.

2, Avoid Draper tools like the plague!

 

 

Steve

 

cool.gifScream...if you want to go faster!!!id=limegreen> cool.gif

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Youve obviously never used a Draper Tap and Dye set thensmile.gif

They make them out of chocolate teapots!

(or something just as soft/brittle)

 

The only good thing with Draper tools is that when you take them back to the shop, the people behind the counter don't argue and give you a refund without question.

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I wouldn't like to comment on whether or not draper torque wrenches are any good, but you definitely get what you pay for when buying tools. I used to buy cheap tools (whenever I saw a bargain) but all the bargains I've bought have been useless. Now I buy the best I can afford. That goes double when it comes to taps, dies, drill bits, etc. You can buy drill bit sets of about twenty bits for less than a tenner, but they're nasty carbon steel things that aren't sharp and don't stay sharp. A nice expensive HSS bit goes through like a hot knife through butter.

 

It's all very well to shop around, but quality shows when you start using them.

 

...and BTW, I think most taps are brittle, it's the way they're made. You have to be careful with them. However, cheap taps won't keep their sharpness like expensive taps.

 

Edited by - ashaughnessy on 2 Nov 2001 17:18:28

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I fully agree regarding tool quality !

I have wasted way too much money on 'diy-shop' garbage, now i don't have money to waste on cheap tools. They just don't last, and you mess up what you are doing. Screwdivers, socket kits, you name it.

I just bought a complete tap & dye set from M3-M12m three taps per size, in a case. Industrial quality, 100 quid, and I know they will last till kingdome come (normal sales price is 150).

Cheap no-quality tools cost more than a decent set that last for a lifetime.

(Metrinch comes to my mind here. I'll never need another set of sockets and ratchets.)

 

Best ! - Karsten

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The reason that the Clarke, Draper & Sealey stuff looks the same as it all comes out of the same factories in China. If you buy a cheap torque wrench on the basis that you only use it 3/4 times a year remember you still need it to be accurate that 3/4 times a year. I'm not sure it's worth taking the chance.
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There's nothing at all wrong with a box full of Draper tools and other similar quality equipment - they make fantastic boat anchors. I learnt my lesson during my apprenticeship buying cheap panel work tools. All now more or less scrap and replaced by Snap On hammers @60 quid each but they'll still be around when I'm pushing up daisy's.

Mike.

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Having just bought the new project, which will mean all winter spent tinkering, i think a big fridge in the garage full of Stella will be needed as much as any posh new tools.

 

Again, as with the Draper vs Snap-On debate, I think this makes more long term sense than the cheaper Ace Lager alternative.

 

 

 

Mark

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