Normans_Ghost Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Got the prop-shaft band brake made and fitted. It's a prototype so is a bit crude. However it works in the sense that if you wind the handle down the band tightens a grips the shaft. Unwind it and the shaft turns freely without touching the lining. At the moment it takes about 6-8 turns to undo but this will shorten when the lining beds in (if ever). I will probably only use it when parking on a hill (which in Sheffield is nearly everywhere) click here to see some pictures (at foot of page) Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 So having spent a small fortune on carbon to lighten your car, you are now moving to 48 year old Land Rover technology *confused* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin S. Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Why not just leave it in gear 🤔 BRG De-dion, 2Ltr Dunnel Zetec 165, got the LSD (in the dining room 😬) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted April 29, 2005 Author Share Posted April 29, 2005 Arnie, cause CF is not as good as Bakerlite. And landie prop brakes are the finest I've come across, which mine was as good. Martin, because leaving it in gear won't get it through an MOT. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin S. Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 ah! so have you removed all the standard handbrake gubbins? and if you have why? is it all part of the drive towards lower weight? Will a prop brake pass the MOT? A lot of questions I know - just interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Should be no probs with trans-brakes at MOT time Suffering serious sprint cold-turkey. Must get this finished Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Carmichael Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Glad to see someone has thought along the same lines as me... and actually gone through with it. The piston ring clamp is a neat touch. Construction and use requires braking at an average of 0.16G from ~24km/h to standstill if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 On the point of the MOT test.... I've just bought a landy and it seems that the advice is to never, unless absolutely essential, apply the handbrake when on the move - I guess it must be something to do with loading up the diffs??? Does this mean that the MOT test for the handbrake has the potential to cause damage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted April 29, 2005 Author Share Posted April 29, 2005 Martin, changed to AP 2 pots and made brackets so they would fit over standard disc. Removed all handbrake gubbings. Total saving 6 kgs. The prop brake weighs less than 1 kg (948gms). Peter, My only concern is will it stay put under torque braking or will it twist the brackets. I'll get it MOT'd in a week or so (not due yet) and find out. I'm not going to try it too many times before as I think I may have to make the mounting brackets from heavier gauge steel. Not really a problem as I now have the templates to make a second lot. I may also make a second band if the braking on the 3" lining is insufficient. If it works OK then a decent handle will the order of the day. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin S. Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 There's going to be some pretty strong forces on those brackets and mounting points especially if it's applied whilst moving - be careful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 JP, I believe it is because the braking effect is on the prop/gearbox output and as a result it brakes very much sharper than a wheel drum and can lead to braking parts in the transmission. Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted April 30, 2005 Leadership Team Share Posted April 30, 2005 Norman - very very interesting How much "pull" (eg. mm-wise) are you applying using the wind handle? Is there a possibility that this pull could be transferred using the post '96 centre handbrake setup 🤔 Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted April 30, 2005 Author Share Posted April 30, 2005 Stu, Anything is possible. I haven't had a good look at the centre handbrake design. However, I would think it possible to get speedy cables (or whoever) to make a cable to replace the screw. It's raining here at the moment so I will NOT be out trying it till, probably, Monday. So, if I read your question correctly, the system will work with the leverage applied by a lever and cable. However the surface area may have to be increased, but this is not a problem. If, and when, I produce the Mk 2 version I will probably make a detachable handle. Just didn't want to spend the extra time until I know it works. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here edited to add the word NOT Edited by - nverona on 30 Apr 2005 10:42:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JP Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 IIRC, the MOT handbrake test involves applying the handbrake while the wheels are turning on the rollers...if there is a risk of damaging other components can you object to that part of the test being carried out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 I would have thought so as the handbrake is for holding the vehicle still while it's not being used. I don't think it has to be able to arrest a moving vehicle. For example a bolt or pin through something - prop or halfshaft would hold a vehicle safely enough but would not work in applying it when moving. The moving bit is simply a way of testing the pad to disk and cable or other such arrangements efficiency. They don't test an Auto's parking mode / brake I suppose Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Edited by - stevefoster on 30 Apr 2005 22:00:39 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 I belive it is tested so you can have an emergency brake incase of failure of main braking system, so therefore should be able to slow and stop and vehicle. I have a hydraulic handbrake installed for autotesting and for the MOT the tester used that and commented on how good the handbrake was, he didn't see the cable one under the dash 😬 Another method that strikes me as a possible is a tiny disc on one end of the prop shaft either diff or gearbox and then a small cable operated caliper or 2 like the ones you get on mountain bikes. Also does it state that the handbrake must be mechanical or could you have a separate hydraulic system as this would give you a back up system. Sod the heater wheres my shades Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 30, 2005 Share Posted April 30, 2005 I guess the MOT regs clarify it. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted May 1, 2005 Author Share Posted May 1, 2005 I haven't read th C&U regs for years (not since we made commercial vehicle bodies). My understanding is that a vehicle must have a seperate mechanical brake to stop the vehicle in an emergency (presumably the emergancy is main braking system failure). I think, (hope) my brake will do this but will take longer as I will wind it on slowly as I don't want to exert to much sudden torque in case it wrenches the band off the brackets. I'm not aware of a time limit in stopping the vehicle. If I get round to a Mk2 I will use a heavier metal for the brake. (In fact if it doesn't stop raining that may be this afternoon) Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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