pete g Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 my engine has developed a bad tap engine not been rebult but was out of car for other work ,converting to injection. in the begining was ok but as begun to tap[noticed oil pressure had raised too] have change oil because was not happy with the castrol 0/40 syn that i put in it,then use oil flush and refilled with flesh problem comes and goes ,not happy with it and now oil pressure seems to be getting higher. think i may have a blockage in block.[nasty thought that i may have leave apiece of tissue in dry sump pipe work [used to stop dirt getting in pipes while off] if i have left some in pipe and it s now in block what is my next move can i blow it back out with air some how. or is it a complete strip down [not certain this is the problem ,just quessing] any ideas chaps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Bloody hell, this sounds scarey. You have my sympathy. But before you jump to the conclusion that you've a blockage somewhere just double check the oil level is ok. On mine the level seems to influency tapping more than anything else. Having said that, with a noticeable increase in oil pressure and the suspicion of wayward tissues it does sound like trouble. I guess you could start by making sure all the externally accessible orifices are clear. Maybe look in the oil pressure relief valve, the filter, the oil pressure sender, the dry sump pipes (mine have little mesh filters in), the sump. Then check the oil ways in the head that feed the cams (you'll have to remove the cams for this) Can't think of anything else. Good luck Edited by - StewartG on 21 Apr 2005 16:51:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 21, 2005 Author Share Posted April 21, 2005 oil level ok dry sump tank half full there appears to be penty of oil getting up in head area. no standard pressure relief valve to stick , using dry sump pump and front housing is apace /sbd design so pump to oil filter [ brand new] to front housing ,oil pressure sensor ,engine block all runs fine apart from tappets. never had this problem before. could it just be some crap got in cams or more serious ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Do you have hydraulic or solid lifters? If you have hydraulic you may just have a stuck tappet. The oil pressure may just be higher because you are using a "thicker" oil than before. What sort of figures are you talking? I certainly had lower oil pressure readings when I had Mobil 1 0W in my VX. The SBD/Pace pump has a pressure adjustment on the side of the pump - has that been disturbed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Could be a sticking hydraulic lifter or even one with a blocked hole. Doesn't account for the high oil pressure though unless the disturbed adjustment theory bears fruit. I have a set of lifters. Although when I replaced mine it didn't stop tapping so don't jump to the conclusion it's them. Could the oil filter be blocked? I've just remembered I have a spare set of hydraulic lifters. Edited by - StewartG on 21 Apr 2005 18:02:11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 21, 2005 Author Share Posted April 21, 2005 hydraulic 50 psi at idle warm going of scale when reved 80psi + was lower earlier seems to have creeped up, yes it is a thicker oil and did try to lower a bit ,but run out of time , had to go work,[now at work] it is the tappets but why [crap ,or oil starvation to head] but theres penty of oil up there. only other mod done ,gone distributerless and have fitted ball bearing into exhaust cam,from QED.[have spoken to them and they say it can not be fitted to far in] and it has not come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 Even when mine was tapping badly there appeared to be loads of oil in the head however adding oil to the sump cured it. I know QED say the ball cannot go in too far...... But if it has the oil feed to the rear exhaust cam bearing will be cut off. This will make that bearing overheat . Check the bearing cap for signs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 21, 2005 Author Share Posted April 21, 2005 had cover off all looks fine have push down on tappets and have soft ones both sides. these are not that old 5000 miles max. never had prob before. thinking about oil pressure will lower it down tomorrow if there is a blockage relief vave should blow at a lower level.on dry sump pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 22, 2005 Author Share Posted April 22, 2005 had cams out today checked im getting oil to all the tappets,by spinning dry sump pump. stripped and rebuilt tappets [could not find much wrong with them] rebuilt started car tapping still bad, comes and goes did a compression test 215 200 210 210 does that seem ok run out of ideas what next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Wong1697456877 Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 valve clearances? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 22, 2005 Author Share Posted April 22, 2005 tappets are hydraulic have no valve clearance. is it worth me converting to solid tappets ,or am i just avoiding another problem with engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 Pete, What oil do you have in the engine now? (still a 0/40 grade?) What cams are in the engine? (std???) What type of valve springs do you have (std???) Where is the oil pressure sensor located - direct on block or on the end of a braided hose? What kind of O/P gauge do you have - digital (i.e Stack) or a std VDO or Caerbant gauge? Answer these and I'll guide you as to what is wrong. 2 things to remeber: The VX is prone to these problems, and Don't buy solid lifters - there are cheaper ways! if you have a blockage in the system, this will by onw have got to the crank oil ways and starved a bearing. You'd be looking at a lunched engine after just a few miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 22, 2005 Author Share Posted April 22, 2005 oil at moment 10/40 cams QED mild ones Q42 springs standard oil pressure in oil gallery on side of block on tee piece with low loil pressure switch 25psi gauge vdo 0-5 bar sensor into AIM MXL digital dash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StewartG Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 Converting to solid lifters will cure the symptoms not the problem. Unless the problem is the lifters themselves. I have a spare set of lifters you can try. I am using 42h cams with 10w40 with no tapping. I still think you have a blockage maybe the filter. If you do have a blockage it follows from the high pressure that not much oil is circulating. Is there the usual amount being pumped into the dry sumo tank? Edited by - StewartG on 23 Apr 2005 00:16:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 tried a new sensor last night gauge reading more stable and lower than last one. but engine sounded worse in garage penty of oil returning to tank and under rocker cover oil filter just replaced with oil[plus this before gauge,so if it had blocked would i not have low oil pressure.] regards pete. i have read there is a oil pressure reducer in block under head that can fail ,could this be the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 I had a compressed hydralic tappet/lifter on mine some 5 yrs ago. It's impossible to know exactly which one of the 4 it is from listening. Not sure if you can inspect them to tell. Talking to RKE at the time he said this can simply happen sometimes. The noise was there all the time from start up to turnoff. This was before I bought the car and the then owner had all 4 of that cyl replaced. After that it was nice and quiet and I've not had a problem since. The then owner had tracked it on slicks a bit and I reckon that without the SBD camcover mod the oil was being chucked out and the level running low as its hard to keep the oil in the thing. I made the camcover mod and things were better but then I raced on slicks and a circuit like Lydden doesn't give the oil much chance to recover. After returning to the pits I had tappet rattle. This went away after the oil cooled down and the tappet filled up. After that I fitted a dry sump and had no more issues and you realise what rock steady oil pressure should look like! Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Edited by - stevefoster on 23 Apr 2005 10:23:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 have had cover off again ,blown down oil galleries from head all seems ok ,cranked over engine loads of oil presure and what seems loads of oil in top of head. but still they rattle. some tappets in head do feel soft to touch is this normal or the problem. *confused* about to cut wrists have had enough now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Sounds like you need to change the ones that are making the noise before you cut your wrists. Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Pete, Change the oil to Mobil 1 15/50. This is a known good oil. Purge the tappets if you take them out. I do not think the Q42 cams are a solid profile, I am not so sure you can just fit solid lifters as the ramp angles will be wrong. If you can, the easiest perm cure is to do a conversion of your exisiting tappets to soild using an insert. Swindon I know sell this, and it just takes a bit of patience to set it all up. I think your problem may well be that you are not using an oil recognised for use in this engine in this kind of installation, added to the fact that you have a more agreesive than satndard cam on a standard hydraulic tappet. Changing the oil is the easiest/cheapest route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 what is the best grade oil to use ,when doing searches seem to be mixed views thicker or thinner normally use mobil1 0/40 and never had any problems never used it this time because did not have enough at time of refill at present 10/40 standard oil have had tappets out again today and refitted some old ones in case i have a dodgy one or two but still no good the original ones that i removed about five of them are still soft, is this a matter of waiting for them to pump up or am i dreaming[wishing] could it be they still got some air trapped in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 "is this a matter of waiting for them to pump up" Er yes, You'll need a few RPM to do this - say hold the engine at 3000 for around a minute....... Or go for a blast - highish revs but do not labour the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 how long before i cleaned first set went for a long run but still noisey beginin to think im a unlucky bastard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 took off head today as problem seems worse at first could see nothing wrong ,till i removed pressure reducing nonreturn valve in block. bingo piece of blue tissue stuck in valve. at last the real reason for problem, self inflicted. just hope thats the only piece ,dont want to strip whole engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 How did that get in there then? Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete g Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 yourstruly stuck it in the pipes to stop dirt getting in engine ,while it was out last ,for conversion from carbs to injection. what a 🙆🏻 well at least the problem found now,was pulling last of hair out not knowing what was wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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