PAUL MARRIOTT Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 I've a 190bhp 1800 K series and and considering triple pass v. Standard rad - I fancy the standard. Can anybody confirm if its heat rejection is good enough for 190. I use the car mainly for road, touring europe and the occasional trackday. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 yes , I have used the std ally "road" rad with a 76C stat for the past few years at 186 & 206 & now 245 bhp . The temps have been fine . I'm not sure if it will handle the 245bhp in mid summer on track . I guess w will soon find out 😬 C7 TOP Powered by Hellier Performance 😬 South Wales AO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Martyr Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 I have the Caterham aluminium larger than standard capacity radiator and it has done several track days in hot weather on leSept trips without problems - its is the oil temperature that gets high rather than the coolant. The problem is that it is too efficient on cold winter nights and never gets warm below mid height Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted April 18, 2005 Author Share Posted April 18, 2005 Thanks Dave Wanted to be sure, I've used the steel/copper standard rad with the engine at 185bhp, long runs in Spain, without problem so I hoped/expected the standard Ally rad to be up to the job. I'll just have to convert the plumbing now I've fitted a PRRT thermostat which works fine but the low speed temps rise quite quickly, I'm running with a 9mm byepass, and I want to mod the cct to try and smooth the variation abit and if the std rad has a better flow than the triple pass has has been reported, (and I have to change the rad anyway) then it should help. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted April 18, 2005 Author Share Posted April 18, 2005 Tony I've had oil up to 120 degC(on the guage ), but not since I fitted a laminova nice and stable now, even on a hot day at Cadwell 😬 😬. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 Paul have you considered a Radtec instead of the Caterham triple pass? this is what I've been running on my Steel Crossflow and now on a 250bhp Duratec, it's worked superbly plus it's quite a bit cheaper than the Caterham one. Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Plato Posted April 18, 2005 Share Posted April 18, 2005 The Radtech is realy well made, the quality of finish is great . If mine isnt up to the job I'm going to get one of these Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted April 18, 2005 Author Share Posted April 18, 2005 Unfortunately the Radtec isn't an option at the moment but thanks for the suggestions. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 Ahh, the Radtec is now an option, so a couple of Qs if somebody would be so kind. I origionally had the Caterham triple pass installed and my pipes are plumbed in fairly tightly to that configuration so 1, Do the inlet and outlet spigots on the Radtec match the Caterham 3x pass rad? 2, Is the fan mounting the same? 3. Do I use the same fan switch? 4. I assume rad mountings are the same. Thanks in anticipation Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 5, 2005 Support Team Share Posted May 5, 2005 1. Closely but not exactly - top one is at a slightly different angle and this could cause slight issues if you have your Laminova in the top hose. I have now ditched the Laminova having gone dry sump and a standard Caterham top hose fits fine. When I originally fitted my Laminova I cut the top hose but the angles and position of the Laminova casued me no end of grief and I ended up junking half the silicon hose and using the old bottom hose instead - not what I had in mind. 2. Same as standard Caterham 3. Same as standard Caterham 4. Same as standard Caterham In the above I am assuming that the triple pass has all the same fittings as a standard rad - if this is not the case then you may have problems. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Bees Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 Nope, the top & bottom hose connections on the triple by-pass are at the very outboard extremities of the rad, whereas on the standard one they're slightly inboard (I think I got that the right way around...). Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 Yep, you're right Mike but the pipes on the standard rad are 70 - 100mm further inboard. But it's a bit confusing as the picture on the Radtec web site seems to show the pipes closer to the 3 pass rad than the standard *confused*. Bit of a sod as I can easily fit the bottom rad to the standard config but the top hose is going to be a problem I don't want at the moment. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 😳 Sorry Shaun, thanks for the response - know what you mean about the hoses I've now got a box of bends and various lengths of 32mm - just in case. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 5, 2005 Support Team Share Posted May 5, 2005 Paul - thinking about it - the Radtec top inlet is fairly close to the edge of the radiator but it is angled in towards the centre of the car. If you want I can take a picture when I get home and mail to you - drop me a line through my profile if you would like me to do that. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 Shaun YHM Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted May 5, 2005 Support Team Share Posted May 5, 2005 Paul - YHM too. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 RADTEC ORDERED. PROMISED NEXT WEEK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 I notice that the standard rad has big clearences to the inside of the nosecone. I would think you could get a better flow through the rad by using a light foam infill to close off the gaps. I guess its been done but I can't find info on it using the search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hello Colin Having gone for ther Radtec I home that the cooling isn't as critical as that I'd also like to get a bit og cool air to the air intake without ducting to the bottom of the bay Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hi Paul Fair point. I'm always looking for ways to gain an advantage from low cost mods (I'm a cheapskate at heart) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 Radtec Rad delivered yesterday 😬 What a well engineered piece of kit. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 I notice that the standard rad has big clearences to the inside of the nosecone. I would think you could get a better flow through the rad by using a light foam infill to close off the gaps. I guess its been done but I can't find info on it using the search. OK- but don't shoot yourself in the foot somewhere else... When PSC went live, I'd changed from a standard plenum (rear-facing filter) to a Bernard Scouse airbox (same filter facing forward in much the same position as the early 1.4s - i.e. drivers side 8ish inches behind the rad line). I've built a very-crude cold-air baffle to make sure I take air over the top of the rad - and I've fitted a spare SPA temp sensor in this location to measure inlet air temps and display them to me. I was getting underbonnet temps a good 10degC+ higher in the original filter location compared to the new one (with baffle) - so I'd expect that if you blocked off all flow around the rad, your underbonnet temps could rise appreciably, and you could end up with a significant drop in power - but wonderfully low coolant temps! ISTR the rule-of-thumb figures are 3% power drop for every 10degC rise in air temp... Worth thinking about. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Ar7e. 😳 A long-winded rehash of Paul's post. Note to self (again) - READ THE THREAD BEFORE REPLYING... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted May 13, 2005 Author Share Posted May 13, 2005 Myles I've also got my laminova under the expansion bottle so have a bit of extra cooling pipe work infront of the filter as well (I 've also got a BS box) which makes it all a tight fit, but I've also got some ally and rubber to make up a baffle as you have - It's nice to know from your measurements that it's worth the effort *thumbup*. I've been trying to find some plastic to form with no luck but might have a go at fibre glass when I've got a template. Paul M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Mill Posted May 13, 2005 Share Posted May 13, 2005 Hi Myles I'm sure its worth ducting unheated air to the intake is worthwhile (BMW and the like all seem to draw the intake right from the front of the car). I would do that in conjunction with closing off any other gaps around the rad as it seems wrong to fit a larger, heavier rad before maximising the use of the standard item, especially as a rad that is deeper (front to back) will be less efficient pro rata than a shallow one. BTW the 0.3% per deg/c is a theoretical maximum that is approached as the breathing reaches perfection but hopefully you will see a significant fraction of it. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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