1.6 to 1.8

[Padawan]

Hi,

 

I've read various ways of upgrading my 1600 k engine on techtalk. Meanwhile, it seems that the best method for 1400 engines is to fit a 1800 bottom end, is this route recommended for the 1600 k series engine as well?

 

It should cost about £1000, no?

 

Where can I source one?

 

Who can fit it for me?

 

I guess that will give me 140 BHP?

 

Is the 1800 engine a VVC or does that depend.....?

 

Sorry, probably obvious but I'm a bit of a novice.

 

Thanks

 

Practice makes perfect

[Mick Day]

The reason for swapping a 1.4 bottom end for a 1.6/8 is because the 1.4 cannot be upgraded with a piston/liner swap: your engine can.

 

1.8 can be a VVC or a standard head.

 

1.6 to 1.8 needs new pistons/rods/crank. At this stage most Se7ener's start to get excited about adding lots more go-faster goodies.

 

Have a chat with Oily Hands but see his website 1st here

 

People to do this for you: Oily Hands, Hellier, Hyperion, Freestyle, 7 Workshop etc etc. Just do a search on Blatchat.

 

 

[thinfourth]

What benefits would i get if i have a 1.6 supersport (140ishbhp) If i was to put a bullet proof 1.8 bottom on it.

 

Sod the heater wheres my shades

[Myles]

More torque.

 

Project Scope-Creep is live...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com

---

[Padawan]

Thanks Mike

 

So is swapping a 1.6 bottom end to a 1.8 bottom end a bit of a time waster?

 

Better to do complete swap I guess?

 

Practice makes perfect

[oilyhands]

Swapping crank , rods and pistons requires a complete engine rebuild and some fairly serious expenditure, swapping just the short engine complete is less expensive but there are more unknowns, swapping the whole engine is probably less expensive still but there are even more unknowns.

 

Oily

[EFA]

Isn't the 1.6-1.8 conversion just a longer stroke crank? Therefore a set of conrods and a crank would suffice?

 

 

 

Edited by - EFA on 17 Apr 2005 20:56:39

[mav]

Rods & Crank.

 

I've been very careful about the parts I've collected, and now have 2 sets of 'single tang' rods (1.8) 2 sets of pistons, 2 sets of liners, one block, 2 heads and 1 crank. Total cost so far £100.

[Paul T.]

Rods, Crank, liners & pistons to boot, plus new Main shells. Just waiting for the right time to take the engine out *eek*

 

When the weather's good you just wanna drive it 😬 😬

[thinfourth]

okay to make the situation clearer i might be able to get a good 1.8 bottom end with nice goodies like forged pistons etc s safe to 8200. As the current owner might be upgrading to a bigger bottom end and keeping his head.

 

Now i have a completely standard 1.6 supersport which revs its brains out. This i love now what concerns me is i will loose this rev happy nature of the engine going up to a 1.8.

 

I don't know what cash flow will be like so i don't know if i will be able to afford a new ecu or an emerald so if i stick a 1.8 bottom end on a ecu that excepts a 1.6 bottom what will i get.

 

Sod the heater wheres my shades

[oilyhands]

EFA,

 

There aren't many people who can remove the pistons from a K series rod intact..( I can but it isnt easy), plus the swept area of the liner is higher on the 1.8 so the rings probably wont be much cop. So in reality you are in for crank, rods, pistons, liners, in fact the only retained part would be the block and a *complete* rebuild will be required.

 

Thinfourth,

 

The 1.8 may be a longer stroke but it is still a sweet engine. With the right mods it will rev it's brains out too.

 

Oily

[Padawan]

OK Oily,

 

As it's likely I'll come to you for any engine upgrade, whats the best route for more power?

Swapping my 1600k to an 1800k which should give me 140 BHP at what, £1000? Or going the K02 route for.... £1000. I guess I'll eventually go for 160BHP but thats about it before it starts getting a little expensive.

 

Cheers

 

Practice makes perfect

[oilyhands]

The K02 kit is sort of dead, you dont really need an Emerald at that level, the best bang for buck is probably the K13A. Or just a set of cams/verniers (K01) would give you SS power/torque levels.

 

With a K13A on an 1800, you should see 155-160BHP with 135-140lb/ft, on a 1600 you should see around 145-155BHP with 120-125lb/ft.

 

Later on you could add TBs/airbox and ECU together with better cams (BP285) and see around 190 on an 1800 or 170/180 on a 1600. Or stick with the same cams (633) for 175-180 on an 1800 or 165/170 on a 1600.

 

Bear in mind that power levels above 165BHP and RPM above 7200 will put your pistons at risk, I have seen many examples of standard SS pistons dissolving at horrendously low mileages. The pistons show signs of high RPM when cold, but even so it shows the realtive fragility of the pistons.

 

Oily

 

Edited by - oilyhands on 18 Apr 2005 08:36:16

[thinfourth]

Okay a 1.8 can be rev happy

 

Now the bottom half i might be purchasing has forged pistons etc and is happy to 8200 also it would be coming from an exige/elise so i just need to grind off a lump from the block to clear the starter is this correct.

 

 

My main question is what happens when i stick a supersport head on it which just has the supersport cams and nothing else. Along with lovely plastic manifold and standard ecu will lead to a very confused ecu and a badly mapped car.

 

If so i guess an emerald would be the logical idea. But then would the lovely plastic manifold be a huge hinderance.

 

If the plastic manifold will be a stumbling block then would it be worth my while sourcing the cast alloy one or just say sod it and go for throttle bodies.

 

The eventual plan is a decent head and throttle bodies but not going to shell out for everything at once.

 

Sod the heater wheres my shades

 

Edited by - thinfourth on 18 Apr 2005 11:06:16

[oilyhands]

You'll need a spigot bearing/sleeve in the crank too.

 

The Stock head with SS cams wiull be fine, the CR will be 11:1 rather than 10.5:1 but the stock or SS ECU should cope OK.

 

Oily

[Dannyboy]

I've just done the 1.4 to 1.8 conversion using a bottom end that Oily supplied. It's running a standard head with my 1.4 cams and ECU fitted.

 

Runs wonderfully, and is a fantastic upgrade from the 1.4, all done for £700 including having to buy a replacement head as my 1.4 one was knackered.

 

It seems to be pretty free revving and there's now no need to rev the nuts off it as there's so much more torque.

 

Oily....did you get your bottom end bolts and my cheque for the injectors and fuel rail?????

 

Dannyboy

[oilyhands]

Danny,

 

I received the liner clamps, but may have missed the cheque in the package. Can you mail me and remind me of the amount and delivery address, the chances are the cheque was slung with the packaging, can you check to see if has been paid in (wifey deals with cheques), it's just that I dont remember the cheque...

 

Oily

 

 

[Dannyboy]

Dave...YHM

 

let me know if you don't receive the e-mail!

 

Dannyboy

 

Edited by - Dannyboy on 18 Apr 2005 14:20:24

[Alias]

Dannyboy...

 

How did you get the 1.8 to run on the 1.4 ECU? I would have thought that the fuelling would be completely different?

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------

1400 Supersport with 6 gears and clamshell wings

[oilyhands]

The fuelling is different, but if you trade up to 1.8 injectors... voila..

 

Oily