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Duratec Starter motor problem, help please


Dobuy

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My starter motor has been increasingly becoming recalcitrant, finally today it has gone U/S.

The bendix is driving forward OK on the button, however it does not spin after that, just makes a clunk.

I took the starter off and bench tested it, sure enough, when wired up it does just that. If I short across the two large live connections the starter spins perfectly (without driving the bendix forward).

Any suggestions or input would be greatly received, does this mean the starter is bu****ed or is there some cunning fix

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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if they are standard and cheap get an overhauled one otherwise you will go mad trying to fix it.

 

But if up for a challenge then i shall guess it is a pre engaged starter so no cunning bendix thing to push the gear forward. just a lever and a big electro magnet, that being small round thing on top of starter.

 

possible causes of clunk but no whir, bad earth, bad live, dieing battery (has volts but has no power only measurable with battery tester not multimeter), crappy comutator, dead brush.

 

So power the solenoid and see if it works also try the good old trick of shorting the contacts with starter on engine.

 

Sod the heater wheres my shades

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Dobuy

 

If earths, feeds etc. are OK then it sounds like the contacts inside the solenoid could do with being looked at. If the starter spins and the solenoid pulls in they should be OK. The only thing that is missing is power to the starter when the solenoid pulls in. You will need a soldering iron to dismantle the solenoid.

 

AMMO

 

Edited by - AMMO on 10 Apr 2005 07:24:21

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Thanks Thinforth

So power the solenoid and see if it works also try the good old trick of shorting the contacts with starter on engine.

I did this with the starter motor directly connected to a my battery , with no connection issues and still it only drove the solenoid out, if I shorted the +ve battery input and the +ve trigger wire. If I short both of the +ve input and the +ve from the solenoid going to the motor, it just spins the motor. From this it appears that a: the Bendix drives out OK and b: the motor spins OK. It just does not do both.

Hi Mike Thanks for the offer, I am in Shanghai at the moment, will call you when I get back.

AMMO, that may well be what I will have to do, however, I am short of time before the next trackday

 

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Thanks Mic, Raceline used NGK B9EFS on mine, was curious what others were using.

 

OK final question, anyone know the Motorcraft part number (short one) for the Duratec starter motor as I can pick one up in the US for £90. I have the Ford part number from Simon Bell's website, but that does not translate on the US Motorcraft site.

 

I can always just get a Ranger or Focus starter motor, don't know if there is much difference between the 2.0 & 2.3 litres, just would prefer to know the proper part number.

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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Hi Luke, it does indeed, however this is not the Motorcraft part number that I am looking for, as www.motorcraft.com does not recognise this part number or the Ford Part number that Simon quotes. I went to the local Dubai Ford dealer and Simon's Ford part Number is the correct one, just can't find the right one for the US websites.

 

Does anyone know if the 2.3 is for all intents the same as the 2.0?

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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I know its bloody frustrating, I have tried Starter Motor part numbers 1218379 & 1214371 which I got from Ford's microfiche here at the dealer, yesterday, but they do not show up on either the Ford parts or Motorcraft websites.

They all want my chuffing VIN number, duh, don't they understand people rip their fine motors out and put them to a better use *mad*

 

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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Well, just done a trackday and starter crapped itself again. I found a temporary solution by pressing the start button and shorting out the 2 large positive terminals, this drove the bendix forward on the button and turned the motor on the short. Not ideal, but got 5 track sessions out of it.

Looks like it is an internal fault in the starter (not the solenoid), so unless anyone has any ideas, I guess its a new starter. Is there a brise starter available for the Duratec yet?

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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Glad to see my website is of some use 😬 *thumbup*

 

The std Ford starter motor is £160 in UK *eek*

Racemettle here do an alternative which is supposedly better.....think it costs a little bit more.

Brise don`t have one as such but if you give them enough info they`ll see if they have one which will work. I rang and asked for one for a duratec and they started asking loads of questions...........

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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Simon, I ended up buying another standard Ford one as I was in a rush and they had them available out here in Dubai. I got an email back from Racemettle

Thank you for your interest in our products.

The Caterham 7 and similar cars are very restricted in space and our normal high torque starters will not fit in.

To overcome this problem, we take a standard modern Ford high torque starter (that uses cyclic gears and takes up less space) and convert it to fit the Duractec engine with rear wheel drive gearbox. If you have a special gearbox fitted please give more detail.

The RAC410 for your combination is £185.00 including VAT. Packing and delivery to a mainland UK address is £9.99.

Delivery time would be 3-4 days from funds clearing into our account. We accept Visa and Mastercard credit cards and most UK issued debit cards. Regards, Steve Turner

Racemettle Ltd, High torque light weight starter motors and alternators. Tel:01427 679784


 

 

Duratec Se7en SV, built in Dubai, pics here! *cool*

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