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K series stalling


Dave McCulloch

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I've noticed over the last few months that my EU2 1.6 SS sometimes almost stalls before catching itself at about 500rpm and recovering. Over the last week, this seems to have worsened and it occasionally stalls on pulling up at a junction.

 

From search of previous posts, the IACV was a potential culprit, so I took it off engine tonight and gave it (and the plastic housing it sits in) a good dousing with carb cleaner - it had a fair covering of what looked like soot. Re-assembled and went for a quick drive, and it's still doing it.

 

What's strange is that it's quite random - in particular if I just dip the clutch while driving along the revs fall quickly to 1500rpm and then slowly settle down to 1000rpm - ie all ok. However, approach a junction fast and change down through the gears, and it tries to (and sometimes does) stall.

 

What next?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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I have noticed that ours seems to be doing exactly what you are talking about a bit more recently.

No solution, but at least you know you are not alone!

I haven't checked/cleaned the IACV for a while, but will keep an eye out for any suggestions - can live with it for now....

 

Big update!

here

80,000miles in 3 years plus

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Mike

 

Finally got round to trying this today - took it for a drive to get everything up to temperature (tried to stall once), then disconnected the IACV. If anything, this made it worse - it proceeded to stall twice over about a 3 mile drive.

 

What do I check next?

 

Thanks

 

Dave

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If you adjust the idle-screw on the tb, make sure you then follow the TPS reset procedure (ignition on, five(?) full+slow presses of the throttle-pedal, ignition off, ignition back on).

 

Otherwise the ECU will be confused as hell and will be supplying fuel and sparks from the wrong part of the map for the amount of air you're sucking in.

 

Project Scope-Creep is underway...

 

Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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One thing crossed my mind last night - I recently removed the verniers and replaced with the standard pulleys. The inlet vernier was in effect 2/3 tooth advanced, so I set the standard pulley one tooth advanced - ie further advanced than ideal. The exhaust pulley is installed in the correct position, and is in effect 1/2 tooth retarded from the ideal position. Could this have exacerbated the stalling?

 

It idles fine (albeit quite lumpily).

 

Dave

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It's a coincidednce that you guys are having problems with this very problem at the mo. I have recently fitted the SS cams and ECU to my, otherwise standard, EU2 1600 engine, which was running perfectly before, now I have the stalling problems and the lumpy tickover too. It runs perfectly above around 1500rpm though.

 

Is the answer to retime the cams or do the reset? Or both?

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  • 2 years later...

Adjusting the throttle stop and resetting the IACV will change the balance of air at idle to be biased more towards the TB than the IACV. Stalling ahppens when the ECU is caught unawares and does not modualte the IACV fast enough. If you allow a larger buffer of air through the Tb then there will be sufficient air *without* the IACV to prevent stalling. Resetting the ECU/IACV will then force the IACV to relearn it's idle position. dont adjust the TB stop too far or engine revs will soar when decellerating, do it incrementally, a little at a time.

 

Oily

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Oily is spot on *arrowup*

 

Had to do this TB stop adjustment to my 1.6 EU3 after the SS upgrade as stalling on downshift was a nightmare.

 

Mine still runs at bit lumpy at low revs and ,this weekend's problem here aside , is much better for it.

 

 

 

Blue Roadsport with silver stripe. . . . .it does exactly what it says on the tin! *biggrin*

 

Edited by - gin-fizz-whizz on 12 Feb 2008 10:57:50

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  • 2 months later...

Hello

I've just fitted verniers (inlet: 0.060" lift at TDC and exhaust 0.045" lift at TDC) and a VHPD exhaust system to my 1.8K SS. It is now stalling at junctions, usually after coming off a motorway. It is not so bad when stopping from slower speeds. I am going to try and alter the throttle stop on throttle body followed by resetting the ECU/IACV.

Can any one give any advice on the best way to do this? As suggested above I am going turn the throttle stop screw 1/8 of a turn clockwise then reset the ECU; ignition on to position 2, open and close the throttle five times and ignition fully off.

I guess that if I remove the cover from the idel screw it will have a slot/Phillips head on it.

Thanks

CAB.

 

Edited by - CAB on 14 Apr 2008 23:19:34

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I tried the above and it works. Oiley said that 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn clockwise usually does the trick. I set mine to 1/2 a turn out, reset the ECU/IACV and it is now much improved. On my last three or four runs along my test route it would cut at the same junction every time, tonight it didn't. Thanks Oiley.

 

CAB

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I cured this - by fitting a 1900 scholar engine, Emerald and throttle bodies 😬 😬. Car now goes like stink and following input from Oilyhands and Dave Walker at Emerald to map it, it's never stalled again (except when stone cold).

 

Not the cheapest solution, but I've never looked back!

 

Dave

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