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Coolant loss on 1.8K - water pump failure?


John Vine

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My 1.8K is becoming incontinent. It's started to dribble fluorescent green coolant all over the driveway, road or wherever. The liquid appears to come from behind the crank pulley. I've checked all the hoses and connections, and they seem fine -- not a hint of a leak. My prime suspect is the water pump, but no leaks are visible in that area either. Maybe it's leaking into the darker recesses of the cambelt cover?

 

Does all this indicate a dodgy pump? It seems too much of a coincidence that only last week I had the engine out to replace a duff clutch release bearing. Perhaps I was hamfisted and my lifting gear damaged the pump mounting? The only other variable I can think of is that I also flushed out the cooling system. I used Holts Radflush(?), and then drove the car for about 20 miles (as recommended) before draining the system and refilling with a pukka water/antifreeze mixture.

 

JV

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Erk. Let's hope it's not the head gasket.

 

Are you sure it's not coming from the J-tube connection to the thermostat housing?

 

Out of interest, which brand/type of coolant did you use? The standard glycol-based coolants aren't recommended for a K-series.

 

Mike

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I think you might be wrong here Mike. When I was looking into this a couple of years ago, I acquired a copy of a Unipart manual which, amongst a bunch of other stuff, specified all the different coolants they would supply. It explicitly stated against one of the glycol-based jobs, that it was the Rover-recommended one...Erm, but I can't remember if it was the 2 or 3 year one....

 

For the record though, the 4-year propylene-based one (cf Comma Coldstream) was stated as being the top spec.

 

Nick.

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Mike,

 

I've just checked the J-tube connection to the thermostat housing, and it seems to be fine. I've also checked as much of the head gasket at the front of the engine that I can see, and that seems fine too. The car's not been run since yesterday, and there are now some tell-tale greenish-white streaks on the lower half of the cambelt cover. Some appear to emanate from under the water pump, and the rest are all over the timing marks behind the crank pulley. So, if there's a head gasket leak, it looks like it's on the front face. I'm about to strip off the cambelt cover and explore...

 

Re antifreeze, I used Unipart Super 2 GEC 2002 (2-litre pack) "2-year protection", as supplied by my local Rover dealer as suitable for a K. I diluted it in a 1:2 antifreeze:water ratio, and have been using the same product since I first assembled the kit. The container says "contains pure ethylene glycol for maximum protection, prevents corrosion in all engines, is suitable for all petrol and diesel engines, and contains no alcohol or methanol". That last bit is intriguing, though, given that ethylene glycol is itself an alcohol!

 

Having just perused the parallel thread "Cooling a 1.8K", however, I'm now seriously worried that I'm using entirely the wrong thing! But if it's wrong, why would a Rover dealer recommend it?

 

JV

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It's never a simple case of "right" or "wrong". My info came from someone who had experience of many hours of K-series dyno tests, during which the only engines which did not experience head/gasket problems were those using Superplus 3 year coolant.

 

Given that a Caterham-installed K-series is likely to get a rather harsher usage pattern than a Rover installed one I don't think there's any point it skimping - so it's Comma Coldstream or Superplus 3 or 4 year stuff for mine.

 

Mike

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Well, it was the water pump (and not the head gasket, thank goodness). I ran the engine with the cambelt cover off, and watched contentedly as coolant spurted out from under the toothed pump drive like the Mannekin Pis! The gland seal was leaking in a big way. I rang Dartford for a spare, but they had none in stock (hardly ever need to replace those, they said). But they did give me the Rover p/n, and my local dealer came up trumps. Re antifreeze, I consulted the Unipart catalogue, and Super3 GEC30xx was the top spec (propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol). Unfortunately, they had no stock, and could order only in 20-litre lots! The local Comma stockist had Coldstream though, so I've gone for that (although it doesn't say what it actually is).

 

JV

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Tony at Dartford said much the same thing. But the Rover dealer said, "Oh, we've got plenty of those. We use about 15 a year. In fact, we change them as a matter of course whenever we change the cambelt (and vice versa)." When I said that that must be a nice little earner, he smiled a bit sheepishly...

 

JV

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It was from personal experience - not on the Seven. The engine is in a Rover 214. It started leaking while I was away from home - drove 250 miles home, booked it in to the garage to have leak etc sorted. "Sorry Sir, can't fit you in until next Friday" (10 days away). Used the car for the next 8 days, about 1000 miles worth, and 4 or 5 pints of coolant top up. Then it stopped - broken cam belt. Got it to the garage - "Oh yes, if you get anti freeze on the cam belt it makes it far more likely to break. We get a number of these after the water pump leaks...."

 

If it looks like the cam belt has had anything on it - change it, soon, its the cheaper option.

 

Dave H

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Did it yesterday! The old belt looked pretty well perfect (18K miles), but there were great splashes of dried coolant all over the inside of the cambelt covers, as well as under the bonnet and over some of the offside chassis tubes.

 

So,thanks again for the timely advice.

 

JV

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That is indeed useful advice - about 6 months ago on my Rover 414i second car, I had a leaking head gasket that used to dribble coolant on the block, and so I was cursing myself that a head-off job was coming up.

 

No more than a month later the cambelt had snapped, and a new head was added to the bill! Ouch.

 

I'll need to check my coolant now as well, as I don't know what the garage put in. Needs a service anyhow.

 

Rgds

Domster

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