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Live axle clunk


ChrisJ

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My new (it started after 100 miles) Classic has a metallic sounding clunk when I take up drive or on overrun. When the factory did the post build check they said that the live axle was normally like that.

It is noticeable after warming up over a few miles.

Comments please.

 

Chris

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Chris,

Sounds to me like pure, unadulterated, best quality BULL***T from the factory! I'm probably tempting fate here but my live axle has never made a clunking noise, even after several thousand miles.

 

I wouldn't accept that if I were you and keep pestering until they do something about it. I know it is not unusual for the Ital axle to develop a clunk (see numerous other threads on this subject) but not after just 100 miles.

 

Brent

 

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Sounds like the 'A' frame bush, there are many threads on here covering the replacement. It will fail prematurely if contaminated by oil or grease.

 

However, on a car so new I would be straight back to Dartford !!

 

Other live axle cars do not clunk as standard !!

 

Peter

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My Live car is up to 16,500 miles and doesn't clunk unless the A-frame needs replacing, but even then you will feel this as a 'slopy' rear end way before the clunking begins. I have never worn out A-frame bushes in 100 miles - more like 2000 and that with them getting a coating of diff oil into the bargain.

 

I think it is faulty and you should take it back to them.

 

I'm not sure if they are doing it on the road cars, but they started to put tack welds on to prevent the chances of the half shafts pulling out - as happened in one race I think. It could be that the weld is faulty and the wheel is able to pull out slightly. Try jacking the rear of the car up and puling both wheels outwards - as the cornering forces would act. I think from memory this problem would give you around 3-5mm of lateral movement so is easy to feel. Only other things to check are all the bolts holding the A-Frame onto the chassis and the redius arms. If these arn't tight they might clunk.

 

Phil Waters

"Darling, DO you love the 7 more than me?"

"Driving OR Fixing?"

Caterham on the brain, Caterham around the body! wink.gif

 

Edited by - philwaters on 12 Oct 2001 09:05:52

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A bit off thread, but I've worn out three sets of A frame bushes in one weekend at Anglesey circuit... But not on the road.

 

The tack welds were dropped very quickly as they weakened the half-shalf and caused it to fail more rapidly (in my case, Melborne hairpin)! Current fix is copper (?) shims to pad out any movement in the rear axle (bit hazy on the details I'm afraid - I just drive it). Seems to work well, as we haven't seen any wheels fall off in Graduates this year.

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I don't think it's the A frame. It only happens when I teke up drive or go on the overrun. If the A frame bushes are done don't you here something in corners ?

If I jack it up and place in gear the back wheels still rotate thro' several degrees. This suggests the diff to me ?

 

Chris

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Update on the clang, ( it's become more metallic)

I let Taylor motorsport in Haverhill, Suffolk have a listen at the w/e. Their comments were that it was a faulty diff. They said that they would sort it under warranty.

They called Dartford who didn't agree! Dartford want to see the car again! so I called and said that they saw it at the post-build check and it was peeing me off driving several hundred miles to them on a limited mileage insurance. Also don't they trust their agents ?

Is this sort of 'customer service' typical ?

It's very dissappointing after the great help I got from James Gibson (parts) and Tim Ward during the build.

 

Chris

 

 

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Been having a similar problem. Had a good look at all the A frame jionts and brushs, all seem OK, however there is oil weeping from the axel at the weel hub, got to be the bearings hasn't it?

Not a DIY job for me I think.

Is it a difficult/costly/recomdations?

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They do all suffer from varying degrees of noisyness, but get very loud is bad. As I remember, mine got quieter once run in, then went very noisy as it was about to give up (10,000 road/track miles). Putting a special mixture in (can't remember, but it might be Slick 50) seems to have helped the longevity of my second diff.
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